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The double sub is discontinued. I think the single sub is still available. The connectors from the other Kicker/Mopar subs should be the same, but you will have to find a way to secure the sub. The Jeep sub box attaches to the back of the rear seats.
 

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I was in the same boat and had the same idea. I believe it will work. I was lucky to find a brand new jeep sub that someone took and replaced with aftermarket for like $75. Cost more to ship it across the country.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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I was thinking this as well, the sub systems are stand alone and I have been told will install in any vehicle. My concerns were mounting them to the back seat and if the length of wires were correct to be ran across the vehicle. I contacted kicker directly and got the measurements of the boxes, and it seems like the best fit would be the subs for the patriot would fit perfectly. I also have contacted a vendor on another forum who fabrcates harnesses and he said he would be able to make one that could run two single subs, I have been debating on wether or not to go that route.
 

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Here is what I've done with my system. Going to change the design this summer. My box is connected to the back of my seats. Working on redoing the fiberglass part... it was a let's try it idea. I have cooling fans for heat on both sides connected to a thermostat.

I still have my single kicker. Hit me with a message and I'll give you my asking price.

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JL audio W1V2-4 100$
12" ported box/gray carpet 40$
Clarion XR2110 300w X 1 Channel @ 4 ohms 110$
Amp wiring kit 20-40$
Line - Out converter 20$ (needed if using the factory head unit)
Total with tax and shipping: About 330$

Above is an EXCELLENT entry level system that will give you the chills with its capabilities. I have installed this EXACT system for someone in a trailblazer.

The w1v2 sub is jl's entry sub...but don't let it fool you by it's title. It is a very capable sub that impressed me very well. It only asks for 300 watts RMS, and it will beat very well with even just 250 watts of power. It's a very durable sub aswell, As i have rigged one up to a MTX 400-watt amp about 2 years ago...and it is still beating.
You could change this out with many other entry level subs around the same price range...but be aware of their mounting depths and space requirement. The box you buy may need to be bigger or smaller.
The clarion amp is an excellent amp for this subwoofer. At 4 ohms load, this thing puts out 300 watts....perfect for the W1. THD is <.1% at RMS load, meaning that when this thing is pushing the sub hard....it gives less than .1% audible harmonic distortion. If you hear distortion in your subwoofer with this....chances are it's your sub. Either it's Xmax is too low and the sub it peaking, or the sub just cant handle it. That, or you dont have a clean input signal.

These jeeps are a BREEEEEEZE to install a subwoofer in by yourself. simplicity at its finest. And the simple system above will be AT LEAST 4 times better than the (my opinion here-) half-ass mopar system....For MUCH cheaper.

You're getting a cleaner and more powerful amp (<.1% THD @ 300 watts rms/400 peak vs 1.0% THD @ 150 watts RMS/200 peak)
You're getting a more capable subwoofer in terms of size and sound output, being in a properly sized ported box.


once again, my opinion here only, so dont flame me : Given all that information.... I'm still trying to figure why anyone on this forum still goes with the mopar kicker system, if they could save one or two good bills and get something multiple times better? If anyone wanted to build a terrific system on a budget... I'm here to help. So why not?

My subwoofer system, now with a single 12" Image dynamics IDMAX subwoofer, has such astounding clarity that it's almost unreal to believe. In a 35hz tuned, ported subwoofer box, this thing will blow your eardrums and piss off every person in the neighborhood...but is also exactly as timid as I could ever want it to be at humane levels....all for right at about 1000$.
 

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well looks like you fellas got the hang of things, quick questions, what would i need to wire up after market kicker subs and amps..since no mopar subs and no harness..
 

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JL audio W1V2-4 100$
12" ported box/gray carpet 40$
Clarion XR2110 300w X 1 Channel @ 4 ohms 110$
Amp wiring kit 20-40$
Line - Out converter 20$ (needed if using the factory head unit)
Total with tax and shipping: About 330$

Above is an EXCELLENT entry level system that will give you the chills with its capabilities. I have installed this EXACT system for someone in a trailblazer.

The w1v2 sub is jl's entry sub...but don't let it fool you by it's title. It is a very capable sub that impressed me very well. It only asks for 300 watts RMS, and it will beat very well with even just 250 watts of power. It's a very durable sub aswell, As i have rigged one up to a MTX 400-watt amp about 2 years ago...and it is still beating.
You could change this out with many other entry level subs around the same price range...but be aware of their mounting depths and space requirement. The box you buy may need to be bigger or smaller.
The clarion amp is an excellent amp for this subwoofer. At 4 ohms load, this thing puts out 300 watts....perfect for the W1. THD is <.1% at RMS load, meaning that when this thing is pushing the sub hard....it gives less than .1% audible harmonic distortion. If you hear distortion in your subwoofer with this....chances are it's your sub. Either it's Xmax is too low and the sub it peaking, or the sub just cant handle it. That, or you dont have a clean input signal.

These jeeps are a BREEEEEEZE to install a subwoofer in by yourself. simplicity at its finest. And the simple system above will be AT LEAST 4 times better than the (my opinion here-) half-ass mopar system....For MUCH cheaper.

You're getting a cleaner and more powerful amp (<.1% THD @ 300 watts rms/400 peak vs 1.0% THD @ 150 watts RMS/200 peak)
You're getting a more capable subwoofer in terms of size and sound output, being in a properly sized ported box.


once again, my opinion here only, so dont flame me : Given all that information.... I'm still trying to figure why anyone on this forum still goes with the mopar kicker system, if they could save one or two good bills and get something multiple times better? If anyone wanted to build a terrific system on a budget... I'm here to help. So why not?

My subwoofer system, now with a single 12" Image dynamics IDMAX subwoofer, has such astounding clarity that it's almost unreal to believe. In a 35hz tuned, ported subwoofer box, this thing will blow your eardrums and piss off every person in the neighborhood...but is also exactly as timid as I could ever want it to be at humane levels....all for right at about 1000$.
+1 on this the JL W1's rock. My dad had three W1 10's in his truck and it could push some air. If you put some sun glasses in the overhead console it would rattle them out if you had the subs turned up. (I have a video but the song in it would get me banned, a milli by lil wayne
 

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well looks like you fellas got the hang of things, quick questions, what would i need to wire up after market kicker subs and amps..since no mopar subs and no harness..
Above is everything that you would need to wire in an aftermarket subwoofer setup in my previous post. you can order these things at a number of places online, or you can go to a local retail place and buy/test there. You will save a lot of money online though, I've ordered a large amount of my customer's speakers through sonicelectronix, so as to save money on the whole install. Their prices are great...and they have just about anything you could want.

For wiring a sub on the factory system, youd need:
Line-out converter
Amp install kit
sub box
sub of your choice
amp of your choice

In my previous post I basically put together a simple, cheap system that would make AT LEAST 90% of users on here much more than happy.

If you wnt to go with kickers instead of the JL brand 12" sub...you can go with the CVR-124 for a little more money. It is a dual 4-ohm voice coil subwoofer capable of 400 watts rms...meaning that it can be wired in one of two ways. You can wire it to present a 2-ohm load to the amplifier, or an 8-ohm load to the amplifier. Supposing that you have a 2-ohm stable amp(most are, the clarion in my previous post would also be a perfect amp for this sub), you will be able to make the most out of this sub through whichever amp you choose.

I can explain how to properly wire the dual voice coils for a 2-ohm load if you go this route with the kicker or any other DVC. The clarion amp previously mentioned(the XR2110) puts out 300 watts at 4 ohms, and 400 watts at 2 ohms. So if you went with the W1v2...it's the perfect amp. If you went with the Kicker CVR124 wired at 2 ohms... it's also the perfect amp.

BTW, The kicker CVR 122 is a 2-ohm DVC sub. it and the CVR124 look identical, but extremely different. when wired to an amp, it can be wired on a 1 ohm load, or a 4 ohm load. Most amps are not 1 ohm stable unless you're working with a big amp... Therefore I would not recommend the CVR122, as you're going to need a more expensive amp just to power it...and to get the same amount of sound out of it.

Remember, with DVC subs, the impedence of the voice coil itself is not what the amp will see. When adding multiple DVC subs, calculating the final load on the amp can be very tricky...and if not careful it can lead to a meltdown.
SVC subs are very simple. Whatever the impedence of the single voice coil is...is exactly what the amp will see. It makes choosing an amp much more simple
 

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yup, well im already gonna have the subs and amp kit from my boy, he took his brand new set he had in his ex car and he paid like 850 for the subs, box and amp, im getting everything still new for $300 lol..i just need the part number for the hook up to the stock REC nav system i have in the 07. the integration harness...i heard you cant just hook up the new amp and subs to the REC system..with the Boston acoustics...idk
 

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if you're keeping the factory head unit, really your only option is to simply draw your signal from what the factory head unit/factory amplifier already puts out. The Boston Acoustics/REC system in your truck was never set up for a subwoofer or a dedicated "low" frequency channel output. You simply have four channels of sound flowing throughout your car, and that is it. front left and right, rear left and right.

Therefore you have to pull a signal from one of those 4 channels and send it to your amp. The amplifier will filter out all of the high tones, so the amplifier can take the remaining low tones and amplify them before sending them to your subwoofer.

You can use a line output converter to do this, or a full-integration solution like JL audio's cleansweep. The cleansweep is just a glorified Line output converter that also assists in cleaning up the factory signals coming from the sub-par factory hardware before sending it to your amp.





the way the system works in your jeep is like this:

REC NAV puts out 4-channel audio into the factory amplifier.
the factory amp has internal crossover networks, which takes your front two channel inputs from the nav..... splits the highs and lows, and outputs 4 channels to the front(2 to the dash, 2 to the doors. Still technically 2 channels of sound, just split into 4)

the rear signal remains unchanged, aside from being amplified.

your best bet for the cleanest input signal will be to draw your source from the passenger front door speaker(the 6x9) and wire your line output converter to those wires(you can take it from the doors, or from the factory amp in the rear hatch of the vehicle if you don't feel like running wires to the front. You'll just have to identify which wires belong to that particular speaker) The 6x9 speakers already have most of the high frequencies filtered out, so your amplifier will have to do less work...and you'll wind up with less harmonic distortion; thus eliminating the need for an expensive JL audio cleansweep if you have a good clean amp..

The RCA cables will go from the line output converter to your amp. wire it all up, and start listening to your music.
 

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whooo damn lol...sounds like i might as well get the new indash system lol..i thought the kit would be a simple plug and play connection and set up...my primary reason was i just didnt want to lose my steering wheel functions/and make sure everything else matches up, reverse camera/nav/the "actual" fitting in the dash to make it look clean and official..

damn good write up tho!
 

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don't let it intimidate you/fool you into thinking you need an aftermarket head unit. Installing the Line-out converter and an amp will be much easier than installing a head unit and an amp. I just tend to get too into details on things ;)

A head unit will give you a cleaner signal to your amp though, yes. But if you're only doing a sub on the factory signal and not all of your other speakers...you're fine.
 

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don't let it intimidate you/fool you into thinking you need an aftermarket head unit. Installing the Line-out converter and an amp will be much easier than installing a head unit and an amp. I just tend to get too into details on things ;)

A head unit will give you a cleaner signal to your amp though, yes. But if you're only doing a sub on the factory signal and not all of your other speakers...you're fine.
gotcha lol..converter it is! thanks bro
 

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I have decided to change out everything... wanted to know you opinion on...

09
head unit with the features or close to the ones I already have.
processor
speakers Front/rear
sub
amp/s
 

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I just picked up a 12w7 in the H.O. Box and a 1000/1 jl amp want to hook it up but wasn't sure which route to go about it, does anyone know if the factory radios navi has auxiliary cable ports in the back, I haven't taken it apart yet so I'm not sure?
 
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