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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
WK2 Bwoody CAI Install Guide:


Installation Time: 2-4 hours
Difficulty: 5/10

First double check you have everything before starting



Tools
Bwoody Instructions
Flash Light
Drill with 1/8" Drill Bit
Diagonal Cutters
Flat Head Scwerdriver(s)
Trim Removal Tools
Razor Knife

1/4" & 3/8" Ratchets
3/8" 3" Extension

Sockets:
8mm
10mm
11mm
12mm
13mm

Tire Removal and Installation:
1/2" Drive Breaker Bar w/22mm socket
1/2" Drive Torque Wrench w/22mm socket

Optional Tools:
Impact Wrench
3/8" Swivel Adapter
Plastic Rivet Gun and Rivets (6.6mm & 6.3mm Rivets)




Steps
1) Read the Bwoody Instructions

2) Disconnect the battery. It's located under the passenger seat. Move the seat all the way forward and pop open the cubby. Disconnect the negative terminal.


3) Set the e-brake and chock the rear wheels. Break the front driver tire lug nuts loose and then jack the front driver side up. Use a jack stand for safety!



4) Begin removing the wheel liner. There are 3 bolts, 6 rivets to drill out, 3 larger style push rivets and a hand full (like 10 IIRC) of smaller push rivets. Just look and you'll see them all. There is one on the right (near rear end of the jeep) that's underneath, watch out for it. Once all the rivets/bolts are removed wiggle the liner out. I made sure not to damage any of the reusable push rivets, you'll need them later.






5) Remove the stock air box. It's easy and straight forward. Open the 2 clips and remove the air filter. Press the tab in and remove the connector from the IAT sensor. Use a flat head screw driver and loosen the clamps on each end on the intake tube. Pull/Disconnect the breather line. The intake tube and top half of the air box should come out now. The lower half of the air box just pulls up. It's held by 3 rubber grommet like connectors. The last lower divider piece has a wire harness connected to it. Just cut the press fit connector free and remove.





 

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The Traveler
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5,264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
6) Remove the IAT sensor and swap it into the Bwoody. I cheated and bought a new one for $6 at the dealer. They are easy to break and a pain to get out. Save yourself the trouble and buy a new ;) NOTE: the orientation of the sensor when installed. I kept it like the factory sensor.






7) Drain the washer bottle. Get a bucket underneath and pop the washer line off. Gravity will drain it. When it gets near the bottom it may slow or not drain all they way. You can make a seal with the fill hole and blow some air in and it will force it out.




8) Disconnect the 2 wire harness connectors and the 2 washer fluid lines. The bottle is held by two bolts and one push rivet. You'll see one bolt near the DRL LED bar area and the other one you'll need to feel around. You can't see it. It's down low and near the front lower grill area. Once done, pull the bottle down and out through the wheel opening.



 

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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
9) Time for some Bwoody prep. Install and tighten the K&N filter on the end of the Bwoody CAI (Install Dry Charger if purchased-It's recommend to have). Get the supplied Bwoody clamps (I chose t-bolt clamps) and the silicone adapter. Place the silicone adapter w/ clamps on the throttle body and leave loose. Feed the Bwoody intake up through the wheel well and up to the silicone adapter. Once in place position the lower Bwoody bracket support on the existing bolt. Bwoody supplies a flat washer and nut to secure the support bracket to the existing bolt. Once everything is aligned begin to tighten the clamps and then the lower support bracket. Once it's all tight connect the breather line and IAT sensor.





10) Time to connect the washer harness extension. Use the supplied t-crimps and crimp on to each of the 4 wires. I needed to cut back the factory wire loom some to gain more access to the wires. The t-crimps are easy to use. Just line them up on each wire and use a pair of pliers/channel locks and crimp them shut. They snap when crimped. Youtube t-crimps if you need a demo on how to use. Follow the Bwoody instructions for which wire connects to which wire. Make sure you fully seat the connections. I used more wire loom and electrical tape to weather proof the new wire harness. It might be a good idea to do the same.



11) Remove the low washer fluid sensor and grommet and transfer to the replacement bottle. I used a trim tool to pry it out. It's just press fit into the grommet, an easy pry gets it out. Use the supplied hardware and mount the washer bottle and then re-route the washer lines and wire harness up to make the connections.

 

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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
12) At this time it would be wise to fill the bottle up and verify it works correctly ;)

13) Use the supplied zip ties and tidy up the re-routed wires/washer lines. NOTE: Make sure to route the washer lines and wires on the backside of the frame cross member, remember that the wheel liner needs to butt back up against the frame when it's reinstalled.

14) Home stretch now! Double check you tightened everything and you're happy with the install so far. Once everything is looking good it's time to start putting the wheel liner back in. Use the reverse process you used to take it out. If you have questions look at the passenger wheel well for where each piece goes. Begin petting in the push rivets using some here and there to hold it in place. I put all the push rivets in first, followed by the bolts, and then used my plastic rivet gun to rivet those I drilled out. Put the rivet that makes the best fit in each hole. I used 6.6mm and 6.3mm rivets. I think it was (4) 6.6mm rivets in the front part of the wheel liner and (2) 6.3mm in the rear that go into the side skirt as well.


15) Replace the wheel and tighten the lugs down. I use 100 ft/lb. Take jack stands out, lower the jeep, remove wheel chocks, and release e brake. Hook the battery back up, and then get ready for the test drive :D
 

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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Admire the job well done :cool:





 

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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Very cool man!!
Thanks. I'm trying to get it written up so those with questions can refer to it. I tried to get pics of all questions that would be asked lol.
 

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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Write up should be done. Enjoy.
 
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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nice write up, very detailed. Looks to be a little more involved then the wk1 bwoody but still an easy install.
IMO it's a pretty straight forward install for those that are mechanically inclined. Basic hand tools are you're set to go. I tried to get it as detailed as possible. I know people, even myself, like to question even the smallest details. Example, how does the IAT sensor go back in, how does this unclip, etc... So hopefully I answered all the questions people will have the best I could.
 

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Would you say you NEED to get a rivet gun for the fender liner? Or would just the re-usable push-in pins be sufficient?

Thanks for the write up! I'm going to be helping my brother with his next week if it gets in before we leave, I'm sure this will be helpful! ;) :D
 

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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Would you say you NEED to get a rivet gun for the fender liner? Or would just the re-usable push-in pins be sufficient?

Thanks for the write up! I'm going to be helping my brother with his next week if it gets in before we leave, I'm sure this will be helpful! ;) :D
No, Bwoody supplies more push rivets to use instead. I prefer to put it back like it was. That rivet gun and rivet pack you can pick up at harbor freight tools for like $20 or less. It's handy to have if you work on your car ;)


Sent from my iPad 3G
 

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No, Bwoody supplies more push rivets to use instead. I prefer to put it back like it was. That rivet run and rivet pack you can pick up at harbor freight tools for like $20 or less. It's handy to have if you work on your car ;)


Sent from my iPad 3G
Thanks for the clarification! ;) We will have limited resources for the initial install, so I think we'll use the supplied push rivets and see how they go...

I bet you are thoroughly enjoying your hard work! :D
 

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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The bwoody is worth it IMO. I actually have a 1400 mile trip in the morning to test it out :D

Some Quick Observations:
There is big difference in sound
Throttle feels better, more pep in the jeeps step
The lower part of the intake tube stays cold to the touch
The upper part of the intake stays warm to the touch


Sent from my iPad 3G
 

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Great write up Zac. Would you say the catch can install is a 1/10 compared to this? Mine should be shipping soon, as well as my BWoody hopefully next week.
 

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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Great write up Zac. Would you say the catch can install is a 1/10 compared to this? Mine should be shipping soon, as well as my BWoody hopefully next week.
Catch can is easy peasy. Look in the tech section, I have a how to in there if you need it. But yeah, catch can is a 1/10.


Sent from my iPhone 4S
 

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Thank you for the quick response, I appreciate it.
 

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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you for the quick response, I appreciate it.
No problem man. It was either right away or I'd have to wait a few days to get to it. I have business travels/work getting in the way for the next few days.


Sent from my iPhone 4S
 

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Great write up and pics ..
 
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