[MattSRT]

Okay guys here's the thing. We are in the middle of a Vortech install and I picked up an AEM no weld bung exhaust clamp. I have totally stock exhaust and when I researched the size, I kept getting 2.75" and my mechanic said 3". So with the clamp I went with the 2.75" - 3.0" size and it's barely big enough for the piping down from the o2 sensor before the cats. Does it have to go right there? I also heard to install it only on the drivers side bank? Is this true? Any help is appreciated. Has anyone else used the no weld do it yourself clamp? I'd love to see some photos of where you guys placed your wideband sensor please.

 

[StangSlayerMA]

Ditch the no weld bung, and just weld a bung on. You can pick one up at any exhaust shop. The factory pipe has a funky shape to it, a weld bung is way easier. You only need it on one bank, driver's side works fine. You want to place it as close to the collector as possible.


Here is a bung welded on my Magnaflow X-pipe, I also have one welded on my stock mid-pipe in the same place. The upper bung is the for the factory O2 sensor, lower bung is for wideband.

Did the same thing on my mustang. This is a Bassani X-pipe with an Auto-meter wideband sensor installed in the bung (top of pic):

 

[MattSRT]

Ditch the no weld bung, and just weld a bung on. You can pick one up at any exhaust shop. The factory pipe has a funky shape to it, a weld bung is way easier. You only need it on one bank, driver's side works fine. You want to place it as close to the collector as possible.


Here is a bung welded on my Magnaflow X-pipe, I also have one welded on my stock mid-pipe in the same place. The upper bung is the for the factory O2 sensor, lower bung is for wideband.

Did the same thing on my mustang. This is a Bassani X-pipe with an Auto-meter wideband sensor installed in the bung (top of pic):

That looks good, I did the same thing on my SRT4 as well but I really went out of my way to get the no weld, isn't anyone running one? I'd like to make it work if I can.

 

[StangSlayerMA]

Why did you go out of your way for the no weld bung?, you still have to drill a hole. If you remove it, you will have to weld the hole instead of just screwing a plug in. Can you return it?
IMO, that no-weld bung will leak at some point in time, its just a clamp. It's designed for a straight section of pipe, which the factory mid-pipe is not.

Here is the factory mid-pipe, there might be a chance you can squeeze the no-weld on the passenger side before the cat, but that section is not completely straight or flat. If you mount the sensor after the cats, you won't get an accurate reading.

 

[MattSRT]

Why did you go out of your way for the no weld bung?, you still have to drill a hole. If you remove it, you will have to weld the hole instead of just screwing a plug in. Can you return it?
IMO, that no-weld bung will leak at some point in time, its just a clamp. It's designed for a straight section of pipe, which the factory mid-pipe is not.

Here is the factory mid-pipe, there might be a chance you can squeeze the no-weld on the passenger side before the cat, but that section is not completely straight or flat. If you mount the sensor after the cats, you won't get an accurate reading.

Okay first, because I've been without my jeep for almost two weeks now and I thought my mechanic could do it. I would have to search out a shop after the fact and wait more to get them to do it and there is some pressure to get it back sooner (long story). After hearing these were available I thought why not because we can do it in house and if it saves me a few days and plently more hassle, then great. Funny how all over the net is says the stock exhaust is 2.75" on our Jeeps when it's actually just over 3" up there before the cats.

As for the passenger side mount after the o2 sensor, that's where I was thinking. I know it's not the drivers side but I can't see it running THAT much leaner on the drivers side. Besides I'm not going to be tweaking it to the very edge anyway, we'll keep it safe. I'd never mount after the cats that's retarded I know.
As for a good seal? You should watch what I watched already. As long as it's pretty flush, it will be ok and the passenger side looks do-able and is nice and straight.

Watch this:

 

[Jpeyatt]

It takes 20min to have a hole drilled and a bung welded in... It would honestly take longer to Tighten the clamp up.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

 

[StangSlayerMA]

Okay first, because I've been without my jeep for almost two weeks now and I thought my mechanic could do it. I would have to search out a shop after the fact and wait more to get them to do it and there is some pressure to get it back sooner (long story). After hearing these were available I thought why not because we can do it in house and if it saves me a few days and plently more hassle, then great. Funny how all over the net is says the stock exhaust is 2.75" on our Jeeps when it's actually just over 3" up there before the cats.

As for the passenger side mount after the o2 sensor, that's where I was thinking. I know it's not the drivers side but I can't see it running THAT much leaner on the drivers side. Besides I'm not going to be tweaking it to the very edge anyway, we'll keep it safe. I'd never mount after the cats that's retarded I know.
As for a good seal? You should watch what I watched already. As long as it's pretty flush, it will be ok and the passenger side looks do-able and is nice and straight.

Watch this:
AEM No Weld O2 Bung - Pressure Test to 50psi - YouTube

The reason your getting different pipe sizes is because the mid-pipe is scrunched and deformed, its not flat continuous tubing. Thats the major reason why I think that clamp wont seal. That front section on the passenger side has a slight bend to it.

The video is all well and good and I'm sure it holds pressure very well when new, but it's a clamp with nuts and threads that can rust and fail over time. Not to mention there just isn't much room to work with when that mid-pipe is installed. It looks like a dandy spot in the pic, but I'm pretty sure the frame is right there, and the sensor sticks out quite a ways. Just trying to help you from future delays.

 

[StangSlayerMA]

Its a tight fit.....

 

[MattSRT]

Its a tight fit.....

I know it's brutally tight. I'm not worried about it failing at all. Worse case it does years down the road and I replace it. However it's hard to imagine me keeping stock exhaust and headers that long. I paid a fortune to rush it to me yesterday so it's going to take sucking to a whole new level if I can't make it work. But if it's not flush and perfect, then screw it I won't use it.
Thanks for your help btw. I have had the same wideband in my SRT4 now for about 6 years and it's been good, mind you we were able to weld in a bung because I had an aftermarket downpipe too. We'll see I guess.

 

[MattSRT]

The reason your getting different pipe sizes is because the mid-pipe is scrunched and deformed, its not flat continuous tubing. Thats the major reason why I think that clamp wont seal. That front section on the passenger side has a slight bend to it.

The video is all well and good and I'm sure it holds pressure very well when new, but it's a clamp with nuts and threads that can rust and fail over time. Not to mention there just isn't much room to work with when that mid-pipe is installed. It looks like a dandy spot in the pic, but I'm pretty sure the frame is right there, and the sensor sticks out quite a ways. Just trying to help you from future delays.

Yes I know why I'm getting different sizes, I know it's not flush, I saw it all yesterday. I'm just wondering why TF would say say 2.75" all over the net when really it should say 3"+ for the stock pipes. No wonder they flow so well stock, they're huge. My
Mechanic and I know it won't fit there, too bad they fail to tell you that before going ahead and charging so much anyway to rush it. I'm going to try the other side to see but I may have to bend over and take it yet again for my vehicle. Ouch.

 

[J&D's SRT's]

You can pick up a bung on Amazon for $8, I think & have it over nighted for a few bucks.

Jim

 

[rmon]

The factory midpipes have an inner pipe inside the outer pipe before and after the cats. The inner pipe is 2 1/2 inches and the outer is 3inches. I'm not sure that you could even get the clamp to work with this arrangement. You have to drill through both to weld in a bung. I recommend making a notch in the outer hole to place a tack weld between the pipes to make sure you don"t get a rattle from the inner pipe. I agree that a welded bung is your best option.

 

[MattSRT]

You can pick up a bung on Amazon for $8, I think & have it over nighted for a few bucks.

Jim

Yeah but not to Canada and not AEM. It's a $44.95 piece and with overnight shipping? How does about $170 bucks grab you? Lol yup.... Rape.

 

[MattSRT]

The factory midpipes have an inner pipe inside the outer pipe before and after the cats. The inner pipe is 2 1/2 inches and the outer is 3inches. I'm not sure that you could even get the clamp to work with this arrangement. You have to drill through both to weld in a bung. I recommend making a notch in the outer hole to place a tack weld between the pipes to make sure you don"t get a rattle from the inner pipe. I agree that a welded bung is your best option.

Man, I searched and searched for info like this before I bought it too. Sure wish I would have known.
=(

 

[higshemi]

I highly caution using the passenger side to measure AF. I've seen and read enough horror storys since day one of the 6.1 to know that cylinder one is the cylinder to most likely go lean and cause a hole in your pretty orange block. And CYL one is drivers side.

 

[StangSlayerMA]

Yeah but not to Canada and not AEM. It's a $44.95 piece and with overnight shipping? How does about $170 bucks grab you? Lol yup.... Rape.

Nooooo........you paid $170 for that clamp!? How's your bum?

 

[J&D's SRT's]

I've got an extra one of these at home, I think unless I threw it out by mistake. I would think a bung is a bung as long as the threads for the sensor match up. It is 18mm x 125. Would be happy to overnight it to you (send on Fri.) & you just pay me my cost for shipping, can't cost that much going USPS, I wouldn't think. If interested PM me your address & a costyou wouldn't want to go over, like 20 or 25 bucks. You can just have the bung as long as I still have it.

Jim

Try this one not sure why Amazon isn't working it is only a half inch tall

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16149&cat=250&page=2

 

[MattSRT]

I've got an extra one of these at home, I think unless I threw it out by mistake. I would think a bung is a bung as long as the threads for the sensor match up. It is 18mm x 125. Would be happy to overnight it to you (send on Fri.) & you just pay me my cost for shipping, can't cost that much going USPS, I wouldn't think. If interested PM me your address & a costyou wouldn't want to go over, like 20 or 25 bucks. You can just have the bung as long as I still have it.

Jim

Amazon.com: Innovate Motorsports 3736 Stainless Steel Exhaust Bung and Plug Kit: Automotive

Try this one not sure why Amazon isn't working it is only a half inch tall

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16149&cat=250&page=2

Lol okay, you're a funny guy. I know I got raped but minimum this would cost me about $80 shipped the slowest and cheapest method. It was $90 bucks extra and no extra cost vs a exhaust shop to do it and have to book and wait another couple days when I'm already in hot water over the length if time it's been.... like I said long story.

 

[philthyphil]

The reason why everyone says to put the o2 sensor on the drivers side is because all the fuel enters the rail on the passenger side and then makes it's way to the drivers side. I have a dual wideband on my truck and see a .5 difference between the driver and passenger side.

 

[MattSRT]

The reason why everyone says to put the o2 sensor on the drivers side is because all the fuel enters the rail on the passenger side and then makes it's way to the drivers side. I have a dual wideband on my truck and see a .5 difference between the driver and passenger side.

I know it runs leaner on the drivers side though and if it's as much as a .5 difference all the time consistently that may be an issue but again, I won't be running it to the absolute peak of performance. I plan on running it modestly anyway so as long as it's not more than about .5 or less I'll dial it back then. I can minus .5 off of the passenger side. Since my exhaust is stock as well, I can't see me leaving it stock for too long. I see headers at least in the future so I can change it then too I guess.