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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seriously, who's running the most watts of aftermarket audio?

I am upgrading my factory audio system and I plan on going big...

However, I haven't found a replacement high output alternator for the WK2 so I'd like to stay within the limits of the factory electrical (with maybe a battery upgrade). I believe my factory alternator puts out 220amps which is good. And I'll be disconnecting the factory amp so that will save some more juice. So I'm hoping to run 3k watts rms of aftermarket equipment.

Does anyone know what the limits are for the WK2? Have you pushed the factory electrical to the max? If so I'd like to know the following:

1) How many watts rms you are running
2) What amps you are running
3) Have you done ANYTHING to the electrical system to support it? If so please list details

I found one guy on another forum who is running 1,900 watts rms with zero problems. Do you have him beat? :eek:

OK. FIGHT! :fight:

Please no BS. I will base my system on these "real world" results anyone reports so I need accurate info here.

If there is another thread on this please direct me to it. I didn't see one so I started this...

Everyone please chime in if you have knowledge to share!
 

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Man that was an old post! I am running over 5000 watts (Zapco 9.0, 4.0. 3.0) all on stock alternator with Giant Kinetic battery in stock location and 2nd 1400 cca Kinetic battery stuffed in pass side sidewall where oem sub was
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the details and quick reply.

Any idea how many watts I could run with only replacing the battery in the stock location? I had planned to replace the OEM battery with the biggest XS battery that would fit. I'm pretty sure the XS D3100 will fit and it's advertised as providing 5k watts total and 110aH. Should that leave me with 4k watts of audio room to play with? Is that correct? I'm a little new and don't know how to calculate my needs. I plan to put the biggest AGM battery that will fit. Do I just go for the largest in size?

Does Kinetic make great batts? I have never heard of them. I know people that use XS. I have also heard of Odyssey. What do you recommend?

Man that was an old post! I am running over 5000 watts (Zapco 9.0, 4.0. 3.0) all on stock alternator with Giant Kinetic battery in stock location and 2nd 1400 cca Kinetic battery stuffed in pass side sidewall where oem sub was
 

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You have to consider how many amps your stock alternator puts out and how many amps each audio amp will draw. You also need to account for ignition, lights, accessories, etc. Lastly, even if you install the largest XS battery, if the alternator cannot keep up with the current draw, it will eventually die. Of course, this is assuming that you are running the system at max output all the time. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I meant you have to also look at total amps for all your your audio amps.
My stock alternator puts out 220a. And the XS 3100D is rated at 110aH and 5000 watts total.

I was hoping to run a Sundown SCV-3000D (3000 watts) and another D-class 800-1000 watt amp for my other speakers.

I will not be going full tilt very often or long. I'm an old fart lol. I will be playing at 25-50% volume most of the time.

Do you think simply replacing the OEM batt with the XS 3100D will be enough to support those amps? I was hoping to use the OEM subwoofer space for an amp or two but worse case I could add a second battery there I guess. But I'd rather not have to do that...
 

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Maybe some other folks will disagree with me, but I would not replace the stock battery with a deep cycle such as the XS. I would add it as a second battery. The OEM battery is a cold cranking battery. It is designed to deliver high bursts of current. The deep cycle is not designed the same way. I have not used the Sundown amps but I hear they are good. Being that they are D-Class, they should be pretty efficient. I think you should be OK. Make sure you are using good cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Maybe some other folks will disagree with me, but I would not replace the stock battery with a deep cycle such as the XS. I would add it as a second battery. The OEM battery is a cold cranking battery. It is designed to deliver high bursts of current. The deep cycle is not designed the same way. I have not used the Sundown amps but I hear they are good. Being that they are D-Class, they should be pretty efficient. I think you should be OK. Make sure you are using good cable.
The D series XS batteries are listed on their site as replacement/starting batteries. It is rated at 1360 cranking amps. It shows 5,000 total watts and 4,000 watts for audio.

I think I'll try it and then I can always move or add to it if necessary...
 

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I have the sundown scv1500 running at 1ohm running two 10" sundown subs. The thing hits hard. I did have dimming of the lights already with just that. I changed my battery for a Durmast AGM battery. I went one size bigger then the direct replacement and it works well. Just fits in the OEM location. No more dimming of lights. I do have another sundown 150x4 that will be going in with sundown components in all the doors. If you want to push more then about 2k you will need to look at a few electrical upgrades. First port of call will be the Big 3 upgrade. That will take care of a lot as I had done it on my previous car. What you have to consider as well is how much do you want to lose of the back of your car.... My box is tiny...1cuft for the 2 subs. Fits snug right in the back against the seat and does not even come out past the little pull over flap/cover thing...whatever it is called. The amp fits under the passenger seat with ease and the next will be under the drivers seat. Just be careful going too big because there will be added stress on you alternator causing failure. if you decide to upgrade your alternator then you will loose a bit of HP as they need more power to drive them.
 

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Where is everyone putting their amps. Is there a clean spot? Good spot to keep it hidden and out of the elements?

I plan to transfer my RF T1500 amp over. I'm driving a 12" SSA Xcon with about 1200RMS @4ohms. I currently have a 180amp alt on my VW. It handles the load no problem.

How difficult is it to run wires and connect to the factory setup?
 

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My amp sits under the passenger seat. Perfect if it fits under there. Battery is right there so no wires all over the place. My second amp is going under the drivers seat when I get my door speakers.

Do yourself a favor and get a good line out converter. There are cheap ones which will do but you get what you pay for. AudioControl make really nice ones. If you are just running sub amp then the LC2i is what you need. If you running 2 amps...sub and door speaker amps then go for the LC7i. You have lots of control with those line out converters. Tapping into the stock system...well...that is a bunch of bastards. You need to tap into the speaker wires on the speaker side of the factory amp. There will be lots of swearing and tempers while chasing which wire is which but it can be done and works very well when done.
 

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My amp sits under the passenger seat. Perfect if it fits under there. Battery is right there so no wires all over the place. My second amp is going under the drivers seat when I get my door speakers.

Do yourself a favor and get a good line out converter. There are cheap ones which will do but you get what you pay for. AudioControl make really nice ones. If you are just running sub amp then the LC2i is what you need. If you running 2 amps...sub and door speaker amps then go for the LC7i. You have lots of control with those line out converters. Tapping into the stock system...well...that is a bunch of bastards. You need to tap into the speaker wires on the speaker side of the factory amp. There will be lots of swearing and tempers while chasing which wire is which but it can be done and works very well when done.
completely forgot the battery is down there. I'm not sure that my amp will fit though. I don't have a jeep to look at currently and it's not a huge amp but it's not small either.

I will find out soon enough.
 

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My amp sits under the passenger seat. Perfect if it fits under there. Battery is right there so no wires all over the place. My second amp is going under the drivers seat when I get my door speakers. Do yourself a favor and get a good line out converter. There are cheap ones which will do but you get what you pay for. AudioControl make really nice ones. If you are just running sub amp then the LC2i is what you need. If you running 2 amps...sub and door speaker amps then go for the LC7i. You have lots of control with those line out converters. Tapping into the stock system...well...that is a bunch of bastards. You need to tap into the speaker wires on the speaker side of the factory amp. There will be lots of swearing and tempers while chasing which wire is which but it can be done and works very well when done.
Just put subs in my '16 GC SRT and the auto volume control sucks....I have it off but it still is def not off, anyone know how to "actually" turn it off???
 

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I have 5000 watts RMS
3200 for the subs
0/1 cable with 300 amp breaker













Found these high quality compact CT Amps to replace my aging Rockford Punchs
600 watts rms clean
They're half the size of other amps in this power range




3200 watts rms sub amp

 
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