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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there any way to adjust how quickly the blow off valve shuts on the Vortech kits?

The problem I am experiencing is the blow-off valve shuts off too quickly so when accelerating up a hill for example, the power comes on way to quickly and you get the neck snapping effect. Really not good.

I heard somewhere that the blue blow off valve that comes with the Vortech V3 kits are adjustable to make them close slower.

True?

IF not is there something I can do to make the transition from vaccume to boost slower and more gradual?

Thanks
 

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I just finished rebuilding my Maxflo Bypass/blowoff valve because the one I installed had lost it's rubber O-ring so wasn't sealing. I had to start from scratch as far as adustment so I called Vortech and one tech told me that it should be adjusted so the adjusting screw just makes contact with the diaphragm. Another told me that the correct adustment is when 1/2 inch of threads are showing on the adjusting screw measured from the base of the lock nut. Another tech told me two turns in from contact with the diaphragm and another told me adjusting screw should be even with the tip of the vacuum nipple. These recommendations were all assuming a stock cam btw. A search on various forums gave mostly a recommendation for 2-3 turns in from contact of the adjuster screw. I really think that you have to tailor it to your individual set up because every cam has different vacuum and your intake and exhaust come into play as well. Tightening the screw tends to make the throttle more responsive to the point of being "abrupt". I started with light contact of the aduster screw and went up from there. At two turns in it was closing a little fast and was too harsh in transition to boost. It sound like that's where your at. Mine just needed a 1/4 turn back out and now is perfect. Throttle response is crisp but not harsh or abrupt when the valve closes and now the boost kicks in smoothly. So 1 3/4 turns ended up being the right adjustment for my set up. I would loosen your lock nut and back off 1/4 turn and drive it. Keep doing 1/4 turns out till you get the results your looking for. Let me know how it works out.
 
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Interesting , I should check mine as it is crazy and brutal .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks rmon! I will try this and report back.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just finished rebuilding my Maxflo Bypass/blowoff valve because the one I installed had lost it's rubber O-ring so wasn't sealing. I had to start from scratch as far as adustment so I called Vortech and one tech told me that it should be adjusted so the adjusting screw just makes contact with the diaphragm. Another told me that the correct adustment is when 1/2 inch of threads are showing on the adjusting screw measured from the base of the lock nut. Another tech told me two turns in from contact with the diaphragm and another told me adjusting screw should be even with the tip of the vacuum nipple. These recommendations were all assuming a stock cam btw. A search on various forums gave mostly a recommendation for 2-3 turns in from contact of the adjuster screw. I really think that you have to tailor it to your individual set up because every cam has different vacuum and your intake and exhaust come into play as well. Tightening the screw tends to make the throttle more responsive to the point of being "abrupt". I started with light contact of the aduster screw and went up from there. At two turns in it was closing a little fast and was too harsh in transition to boost. It sound like that's where your at. Mine just needed a 1/4 turn back out and now is perfect. Throttle response is crisp but not harsh or abrupt when the valve closes and now the boost kicks in smoothly. So 1 3/4 turns ended up being the right adjustment for my set up. I would loosen your lock nut and back off 1/4 turn and drive it. Keep doing 1/4 turns out till you get the results your looking for. Let me know how it works out.
RMON, quick clarifying question. So you turned yours back 1 3/4 turn from when the screw touches the diaphragm right? Just to be sure I got this corrrect, you can turn the screw easily by your fingers and when it starts to get resistance thats when you have reached the diaphram correct? From this point, you turn it counter clockwise. Is this correct?

Thanks
 

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Bump this, just posted the exact same thing, mods can you merge? Mine is as loose as it goes an is still abrupt.
 

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RMON, quick clarifying question. So you turned yours back 1 3/4 turn from when the screw touches the diaphragm right? Just to be sure I got this corrrect, you can turn the screw easily by your fingers and when it starts to get resistance thats when you have reached the diaphram correct? From this point, you turn it counter clockwise. Is this correct?

Thanks
My initial adjustment was two turns clockwise or "in" past the point of contact. This was "adding" tension to the spring. This was a little tight so I loosened the adjusting nut 1/4 turn counterclockwise. This took some tension off of the spring so it closed "later". In other words it took less vacuum to open the valve which softens the response. Anything "looser" than first contact has no effect because the valve is working off of spring tension alone. All the adjuster screw does is add preload to the valve spring. I would start at first point of contact and go up (clockwise) in 1/4 turn increments until you get what your looking for performance wise. Check to see that your valve doesn't bind or stick, and check to make sure you haven't lost your "O" ring, that's why mine needed rebuilt in the first place.
 

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Haven't looked inside of mine, but where is the oring? What were your symptoms that made u think something was up?
 
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