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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This should apply to any spring install, but in my case I'm removing the Road Magnets and installing the H&R Grand Cherokee Springs. These are not designed specifically for the SRT8, but I need better handling for my daily driver and they are supposed to be an improvement over stock and still drop it a hair.

For my "How To," I will be starting with the front since it was more difficult. NOTE: I would highly recommend getting a friend or someone to assist!!

I will follow up with my assessment of the H&R's later after they've settled and been broken in.

Tools I used (by memory...sorry if I left anything out!):
-Set of strut spring compressors --They are different than a regular spring compressor as they compress from the outside since the strut runs up the inside of the spring.

-Puller (pitman arm puller or similar)
-BFH (Big F'ing Hammer) -- b/c some bolts need encouragement
-Hand tools (and air tools, if available)
=7mm (?) & 10mm ratcheting wrench for nuts/bolt in step 1
=3/4" socket for lug nuts
=impact wrench
=air ratchet
=18mm socket
=18mm ratcheting wrench
=21mm socket for spring compressor (rented from Autozone)
=16mm socket
=Several other large sockets (11/16 - 1", IIRC). They will be used on the Strut Bracket (Clevis Bracket).
=Small Robogrips :)D, or similar).
=5/16 wrench (or ratcheting wrench)

If your Jeep has moderate or high mileage, you should consider replacing some of the stock suspension parts while you are doing the spring swap (spring isolators, bushings, etc.). A quick visual inspection beforehand should be sufficient to check for cracked rubber in bushings.
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1] Let's start with the basics. Before putting the front on a lift or jackstands: remove the 1 bolt and 1 nut retaining your coolant resevoir on the passenger side and the 3 nuts retaining the power distribution on the driver side (fuse boxes).

2] ***Refer to a Chilton's or your owners manual for the correct places to jack and support your GC SRT8.*** After raising the front up and securing it with a lift or jack stands, remove the front wheels.
View of the goods (minus front wheel):


3] Find and remove the 4 bolts that retain the top of the strut to the strut tower in the engine bay.
Passenger's Side:


Driver's Side:


4] Using the Robogrips or pliers, squeeze the plastic clip retaining the line that is attached to the base of the strut.


5] Remove the nut on the upper ball joint and use the puller to remove it.


6] Place a jack under the A-arm or rotor--Be sure to protect the rotor from damage with padding. Remove the bolt for the front stabilizer (sway/anti-sway bar) where it mounts to the lower A-arm. Then, remove the nut & bolt at the bottom of the strut/Clevis bracket. It will require a different size on each side.



7] (In this step, Chilton's will tell you to remove the brake caliper and rotor. The only reason I can see for this is to prevent damage to the brake line). Slowly lower the jack under the rotor/A-arm. Keep an eye on the brake line so you do not stretch it or pull on it. You should be able to lower the rotor enough w/o causing damage.

At this point, the strut and spring asssembly should be "loose." Have someone push up on the upper A-arm while the other person works the assembly under the upper A-arm and out of the wheel well.
Pic of the assembly w/ the H&R spring installed.


H&R (left) vs Road Magnet (right) Front Spring Comparison:


8] Use the spring compressors to take the tension off of the strut mount. Once the spring is loose and there is no tension, remove the nut on top of the strut using the 18mm ratcheting wrench and use the 5/16 wrench to hold the hex end of the strut (keep it from turning).

Once off, remove the spring compressors and use them on the new spring for reinstallation on the strut. Reverse the procedure to put everything back together.

9] For the rear springs, start by lifting/jacking the vehicle and supporting it with jack stands in the recommended locations (see owners manual). Once secured, remove the rear wheels.
Pic of already installed Road Magnets:


10] Put the jack under the rear differential, but only to support it. DO NOT LIFT the vehicle by the rear diff. Then, remove the bolts retaining the bottom of the shocks on both sides.


11] Chilton's said to remove the rear stabilizer (sway/anti-sway) bar end link on each side, but I found it was a lot easier to remove the brackets on the rear axle where the bushings are attached. Remove both sides using the 16mm socket and/or wrench.


12] Now you should be able to lower the jack, which lowers the axle enough to remove the springs. It may take a little work, depending on what springs you are removing. My Road Magnets came right out, but it was a little work to get the H&R's in since they were taller. Using the spring compressor on one side of the spring was enough to allow me to maneuver it into place.
Comparison of H&R (right) vs RM's (left):


Pic of inside of stock bumpstop:


13] Carefully raise the rear end back up just enough to attach the stabilizer bar bushing brackets and lower shock bolts. Agian, do not lift the Jeep by the rear differential!! Do the reverse for the remaining steps and you should be good to go.
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I did this swap in about 7 hours over 2 days. The first front spring took the most time. Once I figured that one out, I had the front finished and wheels back on in an hour. The rear was pretty easy overall. Please let me know if I've missed anything or if something should be corrected. I hope this helps some of you out!!

--Adrian
 

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Damn nice write up! This should be made a sticky!
 

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+1 on this being a sticky!

Thanks for the write up and pics...this helps folks assess whether or not they want to tackle it themselves or take it to a shop and pay someone else to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it! I saw that there were a few threads that gave some good info, but none really went into the whole thing (that I could find).

Glad I could help.
 
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Original post added to DIY and made "Sticky". Not code for all you haters. Thanks for the contribution.
 

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