Well this sucks. So I hope you didn't drain the t case yet with the top drain plug stripped? I am sure you used a 10mm hex for the plug. Would there be any way to force a larger hex in the hole now that its stripped to try to move it? Or kind of a last resort would be to replace the t case cover with a used one from a junk yard? A bit of work involved this way as the drive shaft would have to be removed first.
Transfer Case Fluid Fill Issue
So with 103,000 miles on the Jeep, I'm getting the feeling the previous owners most likely never changed the Transfer Case Oil. After some time and a lot of Liquid Wrench I was able to crack free the Drain plug on the T-Case, but wound up completely stripping the inside hex on the upper fill bolt, it was everything I had in my weaker left arm but it didn't even budge at all, it was completely rusted and just spun and stripped inside. So, now faced with a problem like this on a hex bolt with nothing to grab onto, is there any hope I'll ever get that bolt out? PS: (I tore my right bicep tendon off the bone and had it surgically re-attached just a few month's ago, so I was using my weaker left arm to prevent a re-injury to my right arm, and still killed this hex bolt).
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You might be able to get a mobile welder come and try welding a bolt or another hex socket on and try turning it again you can fill the TC with fluid through one of the sensor ports (Vehicle speed sensor is a good one). Another reason to always remove the fill bolt FIRST - never know what is going to break or strip till it's too late.
Try heating it with a propane torch Be careful it is aluminum and will heat very quickly.
The fill plug is really tight from the factory but a really good weld on a bolt should allow you to put enough force into loosening the plug.
Check this,
How to remove stripped hexagonal drain plug, how to remove stripped drain bolt, damaged drain plug - YouTube
Good alternative to the Allen bolts,
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Try heating it with a propane torch Be careful it is aluminum and will heat very quickly.
The fill plug is really tight from the factory but a really good weld on a bolt should allow you to put enough force into loosening the plug.
Check this,
How to remove stripped hexagonal drain plug, how to remove stripped drain bolt, damaged drain plug - YouTube
Good alternative to the Allen bolts,
I only cracked loose the lower drain plug but never drained it, so the old fluid is still in there. When I tried to loosen the upper fill plug is when a really simple job went sideways. I'll have to take it over to the dealership today and see what they'll charge me to get the old fill plug out and lightly tighten in a new one, then try this again later.You might be able to get a mobile welder come and try welding a bolt or another hex socket on and try turning it again you can fill the TC with fluid through one of the sensor ports (Vehicle speed sensor is a good one). Another reason to always remove the fill bolt FIRST - never know what is going to break or strip till it's too late.
Try heating it with a propane torch Be careful it is aluminum and will heat very quickly.
The fill plug is really tight from the factory but a really good weld on a bolt should allow you to put enough force into loosening the plug.
Check this,
How to remove stripped hexagonal drain plug, how to remove stripped drain bolt, damaged drain plug - YouTube
Good alternative to the Allen bolts,
View attachment 233559
No I didn't drain the fluid, I was just cracking the drain plug loose. Yes, used a 10mm Hex. Going to the dealership later today and see if they can get a new fill plug and get this thing out.Well this sucks. So I hope you didn't drain the t case yet with the top drain plug stripped? I am sure you used a 10mm hex for the plug. Would there be any way to force a larger hex in the hole now that its stripped to try to move it? Or kind of a last resort would be to replace the t case cover with a used one from a junk yard? A bit of work involved this way as the drive shaft would have to be removed first.
Any luck with your fill plug?
No I didn't drain the fluid, I was just cracking the drain plug loose. Yes, used a 10mm Hex. Going to the dealership later today and see if they can get a new fill plug and get this thing out.
Any luck with your fill plug?
Not yet. I did strip the hex bolt even more trying to use the chisel method which is not a great way to get it off when lying on the ground with very little room under the jeep with a floor jack. It might be a really legitimate way if the part was completely removed and sitting on a workbench, but just no way to get a good strike on it where I had to be, and now the hex bolt is pretty mangled. I have no choice now but to take it to a shop and see if they can weld a bolt on it or whatever method they think they'll have luck with.Any luck with your fill plug?
UPDATE: - Finally was able to find a shop that could get the stripped Fill Plug off the T-case. I just drained it a few minutes ago, put fresh fluid in and took it for a test drive. The weird grinding noise between 3rd and 4th gear appears to have gone away. (I actually thought it was my transmission that was slipping between those gears, but could it really have been due to the TC's old fluid?
Before changing the fluid I wasn't too sure about trying to take on any car at a stop light, things felt weird and sluggish but with the fresh fluid I feel like she's back where it was when I first picked it up with a lot better torque.
Does anyone know if having old fluid in the TC can seem like a Transmission issue, and could it cause the Jeep to be sluggish from a launch?
Before changing the fluid I wasn't too sure about trying to take on any car at a stop light, things felt weird and sluggish but with the fresh fluid I feel like she's back where it was when I first picked it up with a lot better torque.
Does anyone know if having old fluid in the TC can seem like a Transmission issue, and could it cause the Jeep to be sluggish from a launch?
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