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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I was able to get the driver side back of engine ground cleaned tonight. I am not sure what grounds are there but one is a plug and the other two are ring terminals. Might be for injectors and what not. There is one just like it on the passenger side I will get to in the morning along with the ones near the computer on the passenger side fender.

When I finished I started the jeep and pulled the negative at the battery and after about 30 sec the engine died. I keep thinking about the alt shops that didn’t get any output when they tested my alt. Maybe the alt has a bad ground at the plug. I found a schematic that has the main output going to the battery, one wire in the two wire plug goes to the computer (signal for mil light?), and the other to ground. If the alt is grounding thru the housing it would work in the truck but not on the test stand. This may or may not have any bearing on my situation and it could be a bad ground for the dash items like Jon stated.

After that I ran a ground wire from the throttle body mount bolt to the battery as recommended by J.P. It is just a theory that a throttle body ground wire (in the plug) is small and adding a ground could aid in throttle response on drive by wire cars (the intake is aluminum so not ground material). Not proven but a theory and another ground point in my eyes that couldn’t hurt.

I just tend to ponder things when I am trouble shooting stuff. I have seen weirder thing in my time. I will have the new alt by Friday so I should be able to prove or disprove it then. I will have a third alt/starter shop check the old one out before I send it in for a core.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
More Ground Cleaning and wire testing

I did some more checking and ground cleaning today on the jeep. I did find something odd when testing continuity on the alt wires. I checked one wire in the two wire plug (that plugs into the alt.) to ground on battery and got nothing. When I checked the other that is green/brown I got nothing. When I read from alt housing to ground I get beep (continuity).
When I read from tab on alt. (the green/brown hooks up here) I get continuity to ground.

So what I have found is that the green/brown should be ground and the other is the line that goes to the computer. as stated in my previous post about the auto zone manual I found the charging system diagram in. so if the alt was on a test stand that doesn’t have a case ground and is grounding via the plug (that may have and issue like short to housing) that is why they keep telling me no output.

Just passing on information as I come up with it.

Will put new alt in once it is delivered and check old one more time at 3rd rebuild shop.
 

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I did some more checking and ground cleaning today on the jeep. I did find something odd when testing continuity on the alt wires. I checked one wire in the two wire plug (that plugs into the alt.) to ground on battery and got nothing. When I checked the other that is green/brown I got nothing. When I read from alt housing to ground I get beep (continuity).
When I read from tab on alt. (the green/brown hooks up here) I get continuity to ground.

So what I have found is that the green/brown should be ground and the other is the line that goes to the computer. as stated in my previous post about the auto zone manual I found the charging system diagram in. so if the alt was on a test stand that doesn’t have a case ground and is grounding via the plug (that may have and issue like short to housing) that is why they keep telling me no output.

Just passing on information as I come up with it.

Will put new alt in once it is delivered and check old one more time at 3rd rebuild shop.
Good info....... Hope you find the issue soon with your Jeep...
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
New Update

UPDATE:

I finally got the new alt. in today. I checked the voltage again and noticed that the new alt doesn’t drop as low when loaded as the old one did. The new one doesn’t drop below 13.8v with all the load I can produce at idle (the old one would go as low as 12.7V). It also holds at 14.4V strong but so did the old one. I have cleaned all the grounds I could find (including the ones inside I could find). I found a ground strap from the frame to exhaust that was broken and I haven’t replaced it. It is on the passenger side and it has another ground running from the exhaust to the center of the truck (from same bolt on exhaust).

I went to take the alt. to Orileys to bench check the old one, but he didn’t have the plug to perform the test. I will e-mail Maniac electric motors in hopes that they will let me know what, if anything, was wrong with the old alt. when I send it in for core. If they give me that information I will pass it on.

So to sum up so far I have only had the steering wheel "die" twice roughly one month apart. If it happens again, on schedule in May, I will see if I can get the dealer to starscan the jeep to see if it has a communication error. I think that is the only answer at this point as per Diablo-Jon. (if the ground cleaning didnt fix my issue)

I also forgot to mention that I installed a 12" sub and amp last weekend and that was with the old alt. that "had no output" (see early reply on that subject). I did not have any ill effects from the install. (No diming light, no noticeable added strain to the charging/starting system)

Maybe all it needed was a new starter, alt., and some ground cleaning to knock the salt off the connections. I will report as soon as I have new information. Fingers crossed the jeep is good so far.

One more thing, it now stays running when I remove the negitive battery terminal so that is one inprovement. (per test on J.P.'s Jeep)

Thanks for all who contributed to this post so far
Michael A.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
New issue and update on old problem

UPDATE

So it has been one month with no dead steering wheel. I did some research on the steering Colum controls this weekend. I found that I have a short in the wiper arm. If I turn the rear wiper on and wiggle the end of the stalk it will turn my rear washer on. I also learned that the wiper stalk plugs into the light stalk and one 4 pin plug connects to the headlight switch that runs under the dash.
I am going to order both since they don’t cost too much to replace. I am thinking that if the wiper arm is shorting it could cause the headlight arm to fail, or if the headlight arm is bad the wiper arm won’t work.

The new issue is that my dash lights light up at random. It happened Sunday morning at the donut shop. My wife was driving and stopped to get the kids some donuts. While I was in the car with my daughter my wife came to get some change. When she closed the door all the lights came on, the dinger dinged three times, and I noticed the check park assist on the EVIC. It went off and no other issues.

This happened to me once before on a trip from our Fourchon facility. I didn’t think much of it at the time, but I took all my keys off and just use the one for the jeep. I saw a post about heavy keys causing problems.

I am writing this update because this morning while turning into the driveway at work all the light came on again and then went off. I just don’t know what to change. The key switch? Maybe I should go to the dealer so they can star scan the damn thing incase there is a U code or something.

I just called my wife to take it to the dealer for a scan. We will see what if anything they come up with.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Jeep is at the dealer

Ok, so i gave in and sent the jeep to the dealer. Yesterday they wouldnt just hook up the star scan because they said "we need to check it out not just scan it". well fine so I droped it off this morning. I left them with a note yesterday that is basicly the information in this thread.

We will see but I dont have much faith in this dealership. Have a strange feeling that my wallet is about to be raped.

I will report as soon as I get any information on the situation. Wish me luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Looks like we have a solution!

Just left the dealer with a slight dent in my wallet. They found several "U" codes (those are dealer information codes). I will post the codes when I get the paper. Turns out that 3 or 4 were old codes for random stuff but the most recent codes were for the Front Control Module. I should say points to the front control module. For those who don’t know that is the module located between the battery and one of the fuse boxes. It is an item that had recalls (H08) but mine showed to be changed in their system at another dealership. Well they wanted $900+ to order and change the part. So I decided to just order the part for $570.46 and install it myself. I am sure they will want to hook up the star scan and "program" it but I would still save a bill or two. Guess that business manager was right to warn me when I opted out of the extended warrantee. :iamwithstupid:

If for some reason this is not the issue I will update the thread.

I hope that this thread can some day help a fellow "beast" owner.

I would still search out a solution on this forum prior to handing my keys over to a service department. You guys still know more about this jeeps than the dealer could ever hope to know. ;)

Thanks
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #29
This makes no sense

Ok, I just got the codes from the dealer. They point to a faulty wiper multi function switch in my book but maybe someone can chime in.

WCM- B1A6C= Secret key missing and B1A25= Invalid key

My wife has a PCP 2010 challenger srt8 so her key is on my keychain explains these, but...

CCN (think stands for cluster)- B2377= Rear washer switch input circuit and B2376= rear wiper switch circuit

FCM/CGN- B2396= Rear wiper motor intermittent. Control circuit low.

So I tested my rear wiper just now. With the rear wiper on if I wiggle the end of the stalk the sprayer in the rear comes on and off like it has an electrical short. Further investigation shows that the wiper stalk is plugged into the headlight multi function switch and a 4 pin goes from that switch to under the dash.

I wonder if the short in the wiper is causing the front control module to go haywire and knock out all my other functions, or do I need to change the switch and the FCM? :confused:
 

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Roadrunner: Did you ever resolve everything here? Just today, I have both inoperable turn signal controls, no headlight controls (perm on), as well as the wiper stalk functions don't work.

There are no dash warning/error lights, airbag light is off as expected. Other research I've seen suggests faulty signal relay, however I've lost functionality on BOTH control stalks. I'm still looking around for similar threads, but this one looks closest thus far.

Any pointers? Other posts? How did this story end for you? Thanks anybody!

I had the clockspring replaced by the dealer 9 months ago due to the airbag light coming on when the wheel was in certain positions, but as you guys mention, this seems to be unrelated...maybe?

2010 SRT8, 110k miles.
 

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Roadrunner: Did you ever resolve everything here? Just today, I have both inoperable turn signal controls, no headlight controls (perm on), as well as the wiper stalk functions don't work.

There are no dash warning/error lights, airbag light is off as expected. Other research I've seen suggests faulty signal relay, however I've lost functionality on BOTH control stalks. I'm still looking around for similar threads, but this one looks closest thus far.

Any pointers? Other posts? How did this story end for you? Thanks anybody!

I had the clockspring replaced by the dealer 9 months ago due to the airbag light coming on when the wheel was in certain positions, but as you guys mention, this seems to be unrelated...maybe?

2010 SRT8, 110k miles.
"Last seen
Dec 26, 2012"

Highly doubt you will get a response on this one. been awhile for him.
 

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Yeah... I'm noticing that too. I know this is a very old thread but seems to be in a similar ballpark to my current fun.

I've been digging and researching all afternoon and not finding much. Suspecting something is going wrong with the assembly behind the clock spring that includes both stalks and the wire harness/plug for those controls. Haven't been able to track down an assembly diagram yet that would help illustrate it.

I bought her new and over the past few years these little things are really starting to pile up... the engine is strong as bull tho.
 
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