I have a 2014 SRT with the stock stereo and a 2018 Trackhawk with the HK.
The HK was better but I wanted more power like 2800 watts rms 😄
I used a PAC harness to run aftermarket amps that works with both as they have the same heads but the HK has different amps and door speakers.
plastic panel removal tool
clip locations
Then I ran the rca outs to some Scosche level pods for tweeters, front/rear doors
under seat subs and rear subs.
I put the amps in the back.
They're old school made in USA Rockford Punch amps.
A 500a2 for the front speakers, a 600a4 for the rear speakers and under seat subs
and a 1500.1 for the rear subs.
There's also a Kicker 200 watt compact amp under the drivers seat for the front tweeters.
P 2 way taped some thin sheetmetal "tongues" to the tweeters so they slip in behind the A Pillar cover, no drilling required.
Even though my doors weren't creaking and buzzing when I crank it up like some people's I decided to use some speaker baffles to give me a better sound.
The foam baffle is too deep so I trimmed it down with a box cutter.
So you used a hard shell inside of trimmed Boom mat baffles? Who makes the shells? I've been looking for an easy option to sound deaden but wasn't sure what would work with the window regulators in the front.
The door panel is 2 parts for the pocket.
My driver door panel had started separating probably from taking it off numerous times.
I fixed it with some 5 minute epoxy
It wasn't buzzing like some people's but I'm sure if it was this would fix it.
The passenger door was better but I used some on it too.
The rear door panels were good.
I also have an old school 1999 vintage Kenwood kgc 7043 EQ
I got a new one in a box on ebay for 400.00
The used ones occasionally come up on ebay for 150-250.00
Wow! You have WAY bigger Crown Jewels than I do.
I love loud old rock music, and have asked a couple of local guys who do work like this for their career.
BUT, while I have built many a Big Block and played with cams, lifters, heads etc., but. No way would I take something like this on👀
It’s interesting to see the front piece that houses the original setup.
I’ve been speaking with the local guy about replacing the front piece, or what is needed to install a better head radio (or whatever it’s called) with a more refined setup, including what I want the most - decent visible parking sensors so that my wife and I can park my 2018 as we want with spacing to allow us to get in and out of the back seat with our special needs daughter.
SO, if I intend to keep the stock speakers and install a higher-end radio, with smart sensors - so I can see what sensor is beeping WITH a camera, and get crisper cleaner sound, can you summarize what I should do?
No need to take a lot of time.
These pics have scared me to be frank.
I’m OK delving into replacing the front stick bracket, etc. and trying to install a new screen, etc., but I don’t want to get into new harnesses etc.
Can I do this, or is what you are showing ‘really’ the only good way to go?
Thank you. I do have the HK speaker setup, and will take your response into consideration.
I’m sending that unless I’m experienced like yourself, this is NOT a wise task to take on.
Cheers👍🏻
The old school made in USA Rockford Punch amps I've used for various builds over the last 20 years have become old and problematic, even the rebuilt ones something was always going.
While shopping on Amazon I found these new Planet Audio amps about the same size and close power output (400-500 rms) to the Rockfords that fit into my rear compartment if I remove the right and left bottom plastic corners on both of them to fit the sprare tire well.
They were only about 100.00 each and have102 db S/N ratio, sound great.
I bridged the one amp for my front speakers and used the other one as a 4 channel
for the rear doors and under seat subs.
My 2 subs weigh 65 lb each and the box is 25 lb so opening it was like weight lifting.
I put the box in empty then mount the subs and do the reverse to take it out.
I got some universal tail gate struts on Amazon that come with mounting brackets
and also got some some hinges and put them in.
Used fender washers on both sides in the well which is quite strong.
Now I still use the post but only have to exert about 10 lbs of force to lift the box open.
Found these CT Amps on Amazon for 179.99
600 watts RMS at 4 ohms comparable to my old Rockfords and the Planet Audio amps I was using.
They are only half the size of the 500a2 and 600a4 and the P Audio
The Rockfords I've been using for 20 years are getting too old to rebuild.
Something else always keeps going.
So my 3200 came in on Tuesday and I have put it in
I used this chart and made up some 1/0 gauge cables.
Have to take the 65 lb each subs out to get the box out to put in the new cable
1/0 gauge wires to the amp.
Negative cables are short so I painted them black
These amps have vents so they have to be mounted to allow for air circulation
Larger 8 Farad Capacitor
Looking good so far.
Got it back together and decided to locate the in/out fans with the amps as there is just enough room.
I think it's a better location than the sub box.
Fit's perfectly.
May still redo the fan holes.
Ok all done.
Hooked the speakers up for 1/2 ohm since there are 2 speakers
The other option was to hook it up for 2 ohms but that's only 1600 watts rms vs 3200 at 1 ohm.
Not sure what the rms rating is for 1/2 ohm but it's
Awesome!!!
The gain is hardly half way.
All this took about 10-12 hrs.
Really thumps good.
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