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Discussion Starter #1
Went out to install my Gorilla locks and ran into trouble on the first turn if the wrench. On the driver front it was obvious that someone had used an impact to the tune of greater than 200lb-ft. I was able to get four lugs off using a three foot pipe on my breaker bar bit the fifth rounded off. Then the fun began. I proceeded to pound on smaller sockets until I got one to grip. Cranked down on my pipe and the thing broke in two. This cap broke off.
ImageUploadedByAutoguide1317603652.254920.jpg

I was left with the nut underneath but it was really soft. Maybe aluminum and it totally rounded off and was really chewed up. So out came the hammer and chisel. Probably a mistake bit I thought I could break it off. No dice. I'm left with this mess.

ImageUploadedByAutoguide1317603836.322529.jpg

I'm thinking all that's left is torching it off??? And will probably need a new wheel stud. Any other thoughts?? I was going to take it to my tire shop to see what they could do b
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Daily Driver..........
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ouch!!! that is painful to look at. im thinking torching may mess up your rims. can you get in there with a pair of needle nose vice grips? i did the smaller socket thing after i lost my lug nut key. it worked. never had a lug nut break though.
 

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im thinking youre on the right track by considering having a pro mess with it before you go too far and its undriveable than its a pro and a tow
 

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The Traveler
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Maybe some bolt out sockets or one of the other speciality sockets meant for removing damaged nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea. On second thought heat and aluminum probably not a good idea. Might try the bolt out before hitting my shop up.


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was it cross threaded? ive seen bolts over-torqued before but never enough to crack a lug...oem non the less...you use PB blaster or anything before yanking? they of course have extraction tools at wheel and tire shops but what exactly is left to extract? im scared to see what they have to do to remove that. GL.
 

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I think he is way past those......you need some sort of a bolt head for those to work. IMO the best tool would be an air chisel with a small tip, split it 4 ways. The stud will need to be replaced, maybe the rim if you want it mint. Good luck, that's a tough one.
I can't tell what's left from the pics. It's bad that's for sure.
 

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The only way to remove that is going to probably be some type of air chisel. It won't be clean or easy, that is for sure! Good luck to you.
 

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I can't help with getting the factory lug nut off, but once you do and try to use the Gorilla locks be very careful. I spent Saturday taking off what was left of a Gorilla lock nut from my new GMC truck. As I tightened the Gorilla lock, I heard a terrible pop sound. Sure enough, the part of the lock that the key goes over just sheared off. Long story short, I was able to remove the spinning collar by pounding a socket over it and then turning and pounding sideways until the collar came off. Then I was able to pound a smaller socket over what was left of the lock nut and it came off. I was just about convinced I was going to have to destroy a new wheel so I feel your pain.

What was I thinking :boohoo:- used McGards for 40 years and never had a single problem. The part that sheared off looked like a very grainy cast metal. Gorillas are in the trash and a set of McGards on order.:eek:
 

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Wait........ Why even worry about it? Your upgrading to locking lug nuts so no one can steal your wheels....

And you cant get your factory lug nut off?

At least you know theres no way for people to steal that wheel???





































On a serious note, LOL... Try to air chisel it, ive ran into this MANY times on toyotas..

Last resort, torch it.. And yes the wheel will get damaged...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I got the little SOB off. Before I admitted defeat and called a pro I went out and armed myself with some tools. Picked up a bolt out set, some metal grinding/cutting dremel bits and some cobalt drill bits.

Those bolt out tools are slick and I can really see them being useful but as someone said above I didn't have enough to grip on. I almost got one to bite but no dice. I then spent way too much time with the dremel grinding on it trying to make it into something that I could grip which never happened. What I thought would be the hardest thing to try but ended up being quite easy was drilling out the stud. Those cobalt and cryogenically treated bits (home depot) are tough mothers. I center punched the stud nice and hard then started with with a 5/32 bit. I was able to drill through the stud and out the other side on about 5 minutes. I then used a 3/8 bit following the pilot hole. That took slightly longer and some working it around the hole but what was left was about a mm thick shell of a stud. A whack of the dead blow on an old socket lined up to the stud and it flew out the back. Success!

Replacing the stud was easy. Just pull the caliper and you can slide the stud in the back without removing the rotor. I cranked down on a lug to pull it through. Just using a standard 1/2 x 18 inch breaker bar. No impact needed.

Lesson learned here is that if I had a set of those bolt outs and used then right when the nut rounded off then it would have been trivial. Pulling out the BFH and chisel early screwed me.

Here's what's left of the nut and stud.

ImageUploadedByAutoguide1317696136.572640.jpg

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