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I purchased my Jeep with the anticipation of driving year round. Well after this winters first snow, I'm having second thoughts. I know the normal routine: wash weekly, wax it before and after winter, avoid salt at all cost, etc. I would like to hear from some Jeep owners that have driven in snow, what condition their Jeep is in after driving thru a few winters(including salty roads).

I bought it used, so for all I know the previous owner took no precautions for preventing rust or corrosion.:confused:
 

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Harrison jokingly said he is going to start charging extra to work on "Yankee" jeeps after he saw mine. no way around it, drive it in snow and salt its gonna rust. body looks fine, undercarriage isn't the nicest thing in the world
 

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Mine has been thru 4 winters now, it was undercoated new and I got it redone after the
2nd winter. The paint on the rockers & front lip have some pits, but any car winter driven will get them. The main reason I bought it is for the winter driveability.
 

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I drove through the winter last year.. had some serious snow storms! I know many people on here talk about how bad the Jeep is, but I was honestly impressed with the Jeeps performance in the snow. Even though I turned the front bumper into a plow it really didnt get too badly messed up either.
My Jeep was a Daily driver for 2 years though. Its not like my front bumper was perfect anyway! ;)
I guess it depends on how picky you are about the damage...

I clean my rims pretty often, but so far I havent seen any damage at all from the salt corrosion.

Under the carriage is hard to avoid. I havent done anything to mine.. But I heard about some stuff in a spray can that you can spray the rear diff cover with to fight the corrosion.
 
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Snow & salt are a way of life for us up here in Montreal. Getting the truck treated at a Zeibart-type shop definitely goes a long way. Personally, I opt for the once/yr or once/two yr oil-treatment. Either way, the undercarriage is not going to be pretty. But there's a difference between not pretty and rusted out.

So no, the pretty black paint on control arms & sway bars will be gone within a coupla years, but that don't mean you'll end up with perforation, which is our biggest enemy.

Oh, and as an aside; Anyone wanting to run alum. wheels in winter really should coat them. I used to spray coat after coat of WD40, day after day until I'd built up a hardened layer. But now I simply apply motorcycle chain wax to the rims just once, mayyyybe twice. The mating area between the wheel hubs and the rotors get a generous coating of anti-seize to avoid corrosion (otherwise, you will get a lot of corrosion there). That's it. That stuff won't scrape off due to snow and is good for the winter. Come spring, pop the wheels off the car, clean off the wax with kerosene and a paint brush and you're good to go, not a sign of corrosion anywhere.

Jez sayin'...:D
 

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got my undercarriage rust proofed and everything came out great except they sprayed a little on my rims and exhaust which they cleaned off. Knuckles aka jose turned me onto it and it works thats for sure. but im still not driving it in the winter lol. it costs around 250 to get it done.
 

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Spent 4 winters up in michigan with my baby as a DD... Needless to say Body looks awesome but the undercarriage isn't awesome haha. But like was said above. Salt and snow there is no outrunning those guys. Its about time i get my front pumper resprayed
 

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Is there no DIY option to spray the undercarriage?

I understand that we can pay a shop to spray / treat the undercarriage... but is that our only option?
 

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There's always the "duraguard" type coating in a spray can, but I dunno how durable it is.

Just remembered; there used to be an electronic gizmo on the market which was touted as cutting edge rustproofing protection. You connected it to the vehicle's 12v supply and attached electrode(s) to the chassis. Was that any good?
 

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Not sure abou the States but here in Toronto we have Krown & Rust Check they both offer a liquid rust control that they spray onto /into the Body,Under carriage and all doors and panels .They do drill a few holes that are covered up with a plug . I get all my cars done around $100 depending on size and it looks as good as the day it left the factory after many years .Also the car/truck is easier to work on nuts and bolts come free lines are not rusted only draw back is everything has a oily film on it so your hands get greasy every time you work on it . But to have a rust free car it is worth every penny . And it also stops rust from getting bigger or spreading
http://www.krown.com/#products/rust/
 
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