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Project looks great Kevin,

Did you ever find out what was causing the Limp Mode issue?
I've been experiencing the same thing on my '06. It's got a stock block/76 mm Precision Turbo, and Paramount 88 Series (1,000 hp trans).

Only happens at a WOT pull, it'll shut me down right around 2nd into 3rd gear. I get a P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio code that comes up, plus all sorts of other Transmission related codes.
The only advice I've gotten was from the Tech who did my state inspection who thinks it might be a bad wheel sensor. Hope that all it is, but knowing my luck it isn't.

I'm trying to get this pig to True Street in early June to have them go thru everything. I'll let you know what they come up with to fix it.

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #562 ·
I believe it was in the tune but I'll have to get back to you. The trans was changed out at the same time a few things were adjusted and the problem fixed. I'll talk to Stephen and see if it was pinned down to one thing.
 

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Thanks I appreciate that. I really don't want it to be the transmission. This was supposed to be the MOAT (mother of all tranny's), for me anyways, so it better be something other than the trans. I only have about 10,000 miles on it with only about 630 HP to the crank. I'd hope it would last longer than that.
 

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Project looks great Kevin,



Did you ever find out what was causing the Limp Mode issue?

I've been experiencing the same thing on my '06. It's got a stock block/76 mm Precision Turbo, and Paramount 88 Series (1,000 hp trans).



Only happens at a WOT pull, it'll shut me down right around 2nd into 3rd gear. I get a P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio code that comes up, plus all sorts of other Transmission related codes.

The only advice I've gotten was from the Tech who did my state inspection who thinks it might be a bad wheel sensor. Hope that all it is, but knowing my luck it isn't.



I'm trying to get this pig to True Street in early June to have them go thru everything. I'll let you know what they come up with to fix it.



Bruce


Check the solenoids on the valve body.
 

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Thanks Eskle, I'll add that to the list of items that Jimmy can take a look at.
 

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If you are going to check the solenoids you might as well swap out the conductor plate on the valve body to a new one as that can be an area of concern also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #570 ·
This past summer I pulled the supercharger off and relocated the IAT sensor to the rear of the tub instead of right about the #1 cylinder. It provides a better more accurate and more consistant reading now.
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I also installed the SmoothBooth actuator that changes the bypass valve from vacuum actuated to electric motor actuated. Man is that a game changer!
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And my dad helped me install a larger heat exchanger.
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Discussion Starter · #572 ·
Since the first time we put the Whipple on (back with the stock shortblock), I knew that something I wanted to do was isolate the air filter from the engine bay. Four years later, I still wanted to do that. Problem was, it was so much easier said than done. There were so many hoses and wires running through the areas I wanted to wall off that every time I started to look into how I was going to do it, I decided to put it off another day. Well, the day finally came and when I got my dad onboard with the project, things really started happening.

The engine bay before the project.
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I bought some ABS plastic and we had some aluminum angle scrap so that's what we started with. I did some rewiring and rerouted some hoses and even had to buy some longer hoses for my power steering setup. My initial thought was to use the hood as the top and makes some sides of an airbox that would go up high enough and seal to the hood with some sort of weather-stripping, but the hood shape underneath and gaps in that areas made that idea problematic so we decided to make a lid for the box.
Below is the start of a side I was mocking up. The later version was refined a bit.
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Here the box is starting to take shape.
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A little more progress.
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Cleaning it up.
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And mostly put together.
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All together except the strut tower brace and coilpack covers.
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Discussion Starter · #573 ·
Isolating the air filter was part of the project, the next part was getting fresh air into the box.

The area right above the headlight was intentionally left open to take advantage of the air that comes in from between the hood and the headlight.
I repurposed the brake duct to direct air up into the air box.
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We also closed off and funneled air from inside the grill area so the air can either go through the radiators or through a tunnel into the air box. I used ABS plastic and formed it into shape with some heat.
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Discussion Starter · #575 ·
Very nice Kevin!

How is the electric bypass actuator controlled?
The actuator is controlled by a controller that is preset to respond to throttle position. It connects to power, ground and the accelerator pedal position output. You can dial in sensitivity (or more correctly, how far the bypass valve opens) with a dial on the controller. So the bypass valve acts similar to how one works on a car that comes with one from the factory, ie. Hellcat, GT500, LSA.

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Discussion Starter · #578 ·
It took a couple years for me to get to it, but I finally wrapped the interior trim. A big part of my procrastination was due to not being able to pick a wrap. Nothing against the carbon fiber look but I didn't really want to go that way. I finally decided to go with a brushed titanium look. Not a huge difference from the stock dull silver but nothing out of place either. The real driving force to get this done was wanting to incorporate the smoothboost controller into the dash. I had a spare center panel in the basement so I thought that would be a good piece to start my project with.

SmoothBoost controller and wiring.
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I cut the thing up so I could put the controller in the little pocket area and added a push button as a boost cut switch.
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Then I wrapped it.
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Wiring up the SmoothBoost controller.
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Had to wrap the rest of the pieces to match.
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