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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking into buying a 426, I'm somewhat foreign to strokers so I'm looking to see what some of your guys' thoughts are on this...

Compression ratio is 11:1 - I'll be keeping it N/A until I get bored and change out pistons or go with Apache heads or something, then a ProCharger D-1 might go on it, or maybe a P-1 on the engine as it is and run low boost, like 5 or 6 lbs...I dunno. It's got ported heads, and a 230/236 cam, although the owner isn't positive on the cam specs. It dynoed 450rwhp and 460 ft.lb. today.

My Jeep's my daily driver, so I'm not looking at doing a crazy cam, but I have considered doing something a little more aggressive. A 2800 stall will also be going in.

Any suggestions and/or insight are appreciated!
 

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PWR - Boosted & Stroked
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Numbers seem kinda low for a 426, does it have a real conservative tune in it? what's it in now? That's a decent sized cam but with a 426 you can go alot bigger.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's what I thought - as far as the numbers, I was almost disappointed when the dyno showed 450. It ran 480 rwhp a little while back on a different dyno, same tune from what I understand. It's in an LX.

It was having a problem not too long ago with stalling...just at random times, I think usually at stop lights, it would just die. Oil level was checked when it was happening and it was 1/2 quart low, sometimes close to a quart, sometimes a 1/4 quart low. Hasn't happened for a while though. Engine seems to runs fine, doesn't get weird; A/F and timing was legit today. The tune was done by a Mustang shop though, so I'm hoping when I have it tuned it will yield better numbers. But the fact that it has dropped ~30 hp in the past several months is kind of a red flag for me. But maybe it was the dyno, or other variables...?
 

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PWR - Boosted & Stroked
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Different dynos might explain the difference some do read really low. That's why everyone days take it to the track. Stalling at the light is probably just a tuning issue, idle maybe set to low & just not quite tuned right for the cam. Maybe one of our tuners will chime in this weekend. I think the guys screen name is ltleo, he just had a 426 done by HHP & I'm pretty sure his whp was around 490.

Jim
 

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I wouldn't buy a used motor, but that's just me!

If I were to go N/A, I would go 440 all the way with a nasty cam.

The jeep stalling isnt the motors fault, its the tuners fault.
 

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My 426 has 11:1 CR and I dynoed at 500awhp and tq. The charts are in my for sale thread. I agree that the stalling is a tuning issue and not sure on a used motor. Also, if you are planning boost in the future, I wouldn't go with a 440.
I'd do an 11:1 426 for now, then when ready for boost, thicker head gasket to bering he CR down a bit and run the 6-7lbs of boost on that.
 

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Yea the numbers do seem low but it could very well be the dyno, if it's built to the max you can throw a ProCharger on there, if it's a mildly built stroker then I would suggest at least getting the heads chambered to run a D1 at more the 8psi...

Now when I say built to the max I mean the best of the best products went into that bottom end to support anything you throw at it...not just the average forged components but a step or two above them...
 

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Straight Up Beast SON!!!
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That's what I thought - as far as the numbers, I was almost disappointed when the dyno showed 450. It ran 480 rwhp a little while back on a different dyno, same tune from what I understand. It's in an LX.

It was having a problem not too long ago with stalling...just at random times, I think usually at stop lights, it would just die. Oil level was checked when it was happening and it was 1/2 quart low, sometimes close to a quart, sometimes a 1/4 quart low. Hasn't happened for a while though. Engine seems to runs fine, doesn't get weird; A/F and timing was legit today. The tune was done by a Mustang shop though, so I'm hoping when I have it tuned it will yield better numbers. But the fact that it has dropped ~30 hp in the past several months is kind of a red flag for me. But maybe it was the dyno, or other variables...?
Yeah he just installed this 426 months ago, so I say its not more then 6 months old would be my guess. As far as the stalling I would say its something with a tune and if you do decide to buy it then I would get a tune from a tuner you trust. Also as far as it drinking oil even my Jeep with 28k on it will drink a 1 quart of oil from time to to between Oil changes, if not a little more....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wouldn't buy a used motor, but that's just me!

If I were to go N/A, I would go 440 all the way with a nasty cam.

The jeep stalling isnt the motors fault, its the tuners fault.
I know the owner pretty well, he's local, I know how he drives it, etc. so I'm comfortable with buying it from him. I was originally planning on doing a 392 built for boost. My buddy called and said he was going to sell his 426, so I drove it around for a bit, enjoyed it, we talked about pricing and other parts I could pull off of his car, so this is something that has worked out to be a little easier and much less expensive. No solid plans on staying N/A or going FI.

My 426 has 11:1 CR and I dynoed at 500awhp and tq. The charts are in my for sale thread. I agree that the stalling is a tuning issue and not sure on a used motor. Also, if you are planning boost in the future, I wouldn't go with a 440.
I'd do an 11:1 426 for now, then when ready for boost, thicker head gasket to bering he CR down a bit and run the 6-7lbs of boost on that.
The drop in dyno numbers kind of worries me, but the shop we dynod it at seemed satisfied with it, so I'm guessing they are used to seeing these numbers on 426s...so maybe it is their dyno. I've thought about the thicker head gaskets or big valve heads or something to drop compression ratio if I decide on a blower.

How do you like the high comp engine? What speed stall do you have?

Yea the numbers do seem low but it could very well be the dyno, if it's built to the max you can throw a ProCharger on there, if it's a mildly built stroker then I would suggest at least getting the heads chambered to run a D1 at more the 8psi...

Now when I say built to the max I mean the best of the best products went into that bottom end to support anything you throw at it...not just the average forged components but a step or two above them...
I'm pretty sure the bottom end is a Callies rotating assembly, Manley I Beams rods, and either Wiseco or CP pistons. Originally it was going to be juiced with a 300 shot.

Yeah he just installed this 426 months ago, so I say its not more then 6 months old would be my guess. As far as the stalling I would say its something with a tune and if you do decide to buy it then I would get a tune from a tuner you trust. Also as far as it drinking oil even my Jeep with 28k on it will drink a 1 quart of oil from time to to between Oil changes, if not a little more....
Yeah, assuming you know the engine I'm talking about, he got it about 10 months ago. It's got about 5K miles on it. Tuning will be done by Johan or the install shop. While I'm incredibly confident in Johan's capabilities, being a high compression motor I guess I'm nervous that doing email tunes will just make it a difficult process for him to dial in timing.

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Much thanks for the replies, info and suggestions fellas.
 

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2800 stall converter and love the engine as is. That being said, if I was keeping my Jeep....I would be getting a 440 since I had no plans for boost.
 

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Yeah, assuming you know the engine I'm talking about, he got it about 10 months ago. It's got about 5K miles on it. Tuning will be done by Johan or the install shop. While I'm incredibly confident in Johan's capabilities, being a high compression motor I guess I'm nervous that doing email tunes will just make it a difficult process for him to dial in timing.

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Much thanks for the replies, info and suggestions fellas.
Sorry this is not the 426 that I was thinking about as the guy is on the East coast instead of the West coast by you. Yeah I use Johan as well and I am confident in his skills.... Cool!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
2800 stall converter and love the engine as is. That being said, if I was keeping my Jeep....I would be getting a 440 since I had no plans for boost.
Another question for you man, how did tuning go with Johan? ...assuming that it was all done via emails and data logs. Take a while? Much headache? Like I said, I have all the faith in the world in Johan, I guess I'm just worried about a couple things with this - maybe they are justified, maybe I'm looney toons.
 

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Another question for you man, how did tuning go with Johan? ...assuming that it was all done via emails and data logs. Take a while? Much headache? Like I said, I have all the faith in the world in Johan, I guess I'm just worried about a couple things with this - maybe they are justified, maybe I'm looney toons.
If you know how to log properly Johan can dial you in. Me and Ekaz installed my cam over the summer and it only took a few revisions for Johan to dial in my tune especially since I have a Wideband connected to my Trinity so that I can log AFR... Works like a charm!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Word. Yeah Johan did my tune after the SRT Max and nailed it the first go 'round. I was thinking about coping the inTune, I think it has one analog input so I can datalog A/F directly to it and send that complete data log with A/F to Johan...the issues people have been having kind of turns me off to it though. All stuff to think about.
 

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Why is he selling it & what is he going to be putting back in his car? Not having cores to trade back in he's gonna have those charges as well & if he's giving you a good price I doubt if he will come out much ahead on the deal. Just questions/things I would be wondering if it was me. Have you looked at the cost of buying a nice short block & reusing your stock heads with upgraded springs & a nice cam vs the cost of buying his motor. The install costs should be close. Than getting heads later when you decide what you want to do.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Appreciate the thoughts Jim. He's going to be taking my engine, we're swapping. He's returning his car to stock. Its going to be a daily driver while he has another project underway. I was considering a shortblock and while they are compatible, there are aspects of this that make it easier, and cheaper.
 

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What dyno were the original numbers put up on? It's important because if he was on a dynojet first and then a mustang dyno, I completely understand. Of it was the opposite, there could be a problem.

There can't be too many places building these 426s, so getting the cam specs from the builder should be easy.

Consuming a quart of oil between oil changes seems very excessive to me. Consuming oil is not what it is there for. Not saying it is a sign that there is a huge problem, just stating that it isn't "normal".

I recommend used only if you know the guy and if you're saving a decent buck. Let him take the hit in the price.
 

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Another question for you man, how did tuning go with Johan? ...assuming that it was all done via emails and data logs. Take a while? Much headache? Like I said, I have all the faith in the world in Johan, I guess I'm just worried about a couple things with this - maybe they are justified, maybe I'm looney toons.
My 426 started, idled perfect and was drivable on the start-up tune, had it nailed after two or three revisions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What dyno were the original numbers put up on? It's important because if he was on a dynojet first and then a mustang dyno, I completely understand. Of it was the opposite, there could be a problem.

There can't be too many places building these 426s, so getting the cam specs from the builder should be easy.

Consuming a quart of oil between oil changes seems very excessive to me. Consuming oil is not what it is there for. Not saying it is a sign that there is a huge problem, just stating that it isn't "normal".

I recommend used only if you know the guy and if you're saving a decent buck. Let him take the hit in the price.
Cam specs I'm not real worried about, easy enough to track down and I know who built it as well. As far as the dyno, I'm not sure what it was on first, but second was a DynoJet, hence my concern. The oil issue has stopped, only took place for like a month. While I was in the car yesterday I noticed a Jiffy Lube sticker in the window, so I wouldn't be surprised if they left the old drain plug gasket or something when changing the oil. Saving some good pocket change, making things easier, and I know the owner and how he drives it. I'm comfortable with it.

Dude, if you have Callies crank and Manley I-beams...that motor will love anything you throw at it! Boost or big nitrous! Or both :) Those parts are in there to take a beating period.
Yeah! :) Like I said, it was originally built or NO2. It's a pretty bullet proof setup I think.

My 426 started, idled perfect and was drivable on the start-up tune, had it nailed after two or three revisions.
Nice. I talked with Johan, we're going to work off of the install shops tune to dial it in if he thinks anything is off. They're including tuning in the install cost, so might as well see what it turns.
 
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