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Daily Driver..........
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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know how to remove this bolt? its on the driver side by the lower control arm.
 

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I had the same issue on my friend's jeep. A lot of the guys here said to use an impact on it, bend the tab up so it can spin around freely. I used a 4lb hammer on mine and it came out. Either way it is a B***H.
 

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Daily Driver..........
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Discussion Starter #3
did you hit the bolt from the other side? i gave up. i didnt want to mess anything up, since its my daily driver.
 

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did you hit the bolt from the other side? i gave up. i didnt want to mess anything up, since its my daily driver.
I undid the nut til it was flush with the end of the bolt then smacked the S**T out of it with the hammer til it broke loose. You need a heavy hammer though, I bought mine at home depot for like $20.
 

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I believe you hit the nut from the other side .. hence the tab ( to eliminate it from spinning ) - impact if you have one .. brute force and ignorance if you don't :lol:
 

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The Traveler
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If you're installing lowering springs an alternative is to leave that bolt alone and remove the upper control arm and then the strut will swing out and give you plenty of room to remove the spring.

Else: bend the tab, pb blaster, impact, hammer, pry bar will get it out.

This may help, Check this thread I made:
http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56062
 

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Daily Driver..........
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Discussion Starter #7
i was smacking the crap out of it. my neighbors came out to see what i was doing. i woke their baby as hard as i was hitting it. i said screw it. i tried hitting it while it was just hanging there, then i jacked it up a little to see if that made a difference. i fail.
 

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Daily Driver..........
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Discussion Starter #8
If you're installing lowering springs an alternative is to leave that bolt alone and remove the upper control arm and then the strut will swing out and give you plenty of room to remove the spring.

Else: bend the tab, pb blaster, impact, hammer, pry bar will get it out.

This may help, Check this thread I made:
http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56062

yeah, i read your method. i wasnt sure how to remove the upper control arm. the two nuts that i can see from underneath looked like they are welded on. i tried for a bit to mess with them but wasnt sure if they were supposed to come out.
 

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yeah, i read your method. i wasnt sure how to remove the upper control arm. the two nuts that i can see from underneath looked like they are welded on. i tried for a bit to mess with them but wasnt sure if they were supposed to come out.
The bolts for the upper control arm should be visible from underneath and the nuts are inside the engine bay. That way takes a little longer but is easier if you don't have air tools.
 
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Daily Driver..........
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Discussion Starter #10
hmmm, i will take one more shot at it before i pay someone to do it. thanks for your response :)
 

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hmmm, i will take one more shot at it before i pay someone to do it. thanks for your response :)
Honestly bro you can do it that way with the upper control arms. Jordan and I had to do his suspension like that since he had 80k on his rig. If you have someone to help you it doesn't take more than 10 extra minutes to pull the control arms and then the strut just swings out. Easy money.
 

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Daily Driver..........
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Discussion Starter #12
ok, you talked me into it. i will give it a shot tmrw. im done for today. 4 hours shot.....
 

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ok, you talked me into it. i will give it a shot tmrw. im done for today. 4 hours shot.....
I completely feel your pain. With 2 of us working on Jordan's truck we almost bit the bullet and took it to a shop. The only thing that kept us going was that we had already done the rears and it was Saturday night and no one was open til Monday morning. It turned out to be easy since you don't need to compress the spring to take them off. It took us 7 hours.
 

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Daily Driver..........
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Discussion Starter #14
yeah, the rear were super easy. i been putting off doing the front until today. i read as much as i could and thought i was ready. i will try the UPCA tmrw.
 

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That guy..
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The front bolt I had a pain with mine... I took the nut off, sprayed it down with pb blaster..

I ended up having to air hammer it back and forth and keep spraying pb blaster on it.. Ended up coming out..
 

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Here's a couple of tips for the UCA: Disconnect the ball joint with a solid blow to the flat circle on the spindle. Remove the inner fender well liner and you can get at the bolts easily.
 
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The Traveler
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I got to mine with the wheel well liners in place. Pass side was easy, driver side I removed one plastic rivet on the right side near the control arm bolt to reach in with my ratchet and socket. It's a bit of stretching, but I did the install myself and could reach everything.
 

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Note for reinstallation....put some grease or anti-seize on the bolt before putting it back in. It'll help keep the bolt from rusting inside the hole.
 
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