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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Had to go through several threads to get the info I needed so I decided to do a writeup myself. You'll need a basic set of metric wrenches & med/deep sockets. Nothing extraordinary, but to give you an idea, front caliper bolts are 21mm, caster/camber plate nuts at the top are 18mm, fuse box 10mm, etc. Of course, if you decide to do it on your own, I'm sure you have a decent set. Also, I used a little loctite blue on the caliper bolts.

This Ball Joint Puller/Separater isn't necessary, but definitely handy(and highly recommended) when trying to separate the upper A-arm joint. I picked mine up cheap at Napa or Oreilly's a few years ago, can't remember:



Remove wheels, jack up the FRONT, put on parking brake, & put it on stands.

1. DRIVER SIDE

2. Get the fuse box on the driver side out of the way by removing the 3 nuts holding it in place(nut closest to engine is recessed).


3. Remove two brake caliper bolts. Support it somehow in which the brake lines are not strained. I set mine on a low step stool

4. Put jack under lower control arm and jack it up a little. You'll see the spring and shock compress. Pop out the little plugs holding brakelines to the shock and any other place that might get damaged when the lower arm drops.

5. With lower control arm supported by the jack: Remove swaybar link bolts. I've got the BW links so yours may look different. You may have to lower the jack so the lower control arm will drop enough to pop the bolt out.


6. With lower control arm supported by the jack: Remove upper A-arm nut. Use the puller to pop the joint apart. You can use a hammer if you don't have a puller, takes a mighty whack or two. Dropping the lower control arm may make it easier to separate.


7.Remove 4 bolts from caster/camber plate/shock tower.


8. With lower control arm supported by the jack: Remove the bolt holding the shock to the lower control arm. You'll have to let the arm down in order to pull this bolt out.


9. Once you've done this the entire shock assembly will drop down. You'll have to use a little elbow grease to get it (push upper A-arm upward), but it will come out.

10. Now that the shock assembly is out, remove the upper shock mount nut. Make sure to hold the shaft coming out of the shock (no clue what it's called) with a wrench as you remove the nut.


11. Make note of the orientation of the upper plate. Pull up and the shock mount/caster camber plate, & bump stop will come right off. Pull off old spring and install new aftermarket spring. Make sure the lower pig tail matches up where the old spring sat.

12. Put the upper plate/bump stop assembly back on in the same orientation you took it off. You might have to push down on the spring in order to get enough thread to show to get the nut on. Use a wrench to hold the shaft as you tighten the nut down.

13. Put the entire shock assembly back in. Go in reverse order to get everything back togethor. Start where the shock mounts on the lower control arm, ending with jacking the shock through the fender well and tightening the 4 bolts. Put brake lines back in place.

14. Put the brake calipers back on (I used a little loctite blue on the bolts). Reinstall fuse box.

15.PASSENGER SIDE

16. Remove coolant reservoir: This thing is mounted in three spots. There is one nut close to the engine, a clip holding it on the fender, and a molded plug on top of the fenderwell. Once the nut is removed and the clip popped off, pushing the reservoir towards the engine will "slide" it out. Also, pop off the black hose clip mounted on the shock nut.

17. The rest of it follows the driver side spring removal.

18. Install wheels & lower.


REAR

1. DRIVER SIDE

2. Place something in front of front tires, remove rear wheels, jack up the rear and support it on stands. Do not put the stands under the axle. Calipers do not need to be removed.

3. Place the jack under the axle between wheel & pumpkin and lift until spring & shock compress.

4.Remove the swar bar link upper bolt. You may have to lower the jack in order to allow the axle to drop enough to get this bolt out.


5. With axle supported by the jack: Remove the lower shock mount bolt. You may have to lower the jack in order to allow the axle to drop enough to get this bolt out.


6. Make note of the orientation of the spring's lower pigtail. Lower the jack and the axle will drop enough to get the spring out. You might have to push down on the axle a little bit to get enough clearance to get the spring out.

7. Remove the rubber bump stop by grabbing it and giving it a good pull. Cut about 1" off the bump stop. Don't skimp here, get at least 1". I used a hacksaw, not too difficult.


8. Install the bump stop. Make sure you push it all the way back up in place.

9. Install the aftermarket spring in the same orientation the lower pigtails were on the original spring. Make sure your upper & lower rubber isolators are in place.

10. Jack up the axle and install the lower shock mount bolt & sway bar link bolt.

11. PASSENGER SIDE

12. Exactly like driver side directions.

13. Install wheels & lower.


Installation took me about 3hrs & 45 minutes. Drive it around for a few days to allow the springs to settle then get an alignment.

:cool:
 

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How about I just drive up from Waco and we both do it. I have the BWoodys sitting in the garage for a LONG time and cant justify spending 300+ for someone to install them. I'll buy food and beverages and I'm totally serious.
 

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We did mine without removing the caliper. Nice write up none the less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How about I just drive up from Waco and we both do it. I have the BWoodys sitting in the garage for a LONG time and cant justify spending 300+ for someone to install them. I'll buy food and beverages and I'm totally serious.
LOL! Let me think about it. I'm still beat from working on this after a 14hr hell filled day at work. ;)
 

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Great write up guys!!! Pictures really help as well. I might do this myself after all.
 

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Had to go through several threads to get the info I needed so I decided to do a writeup myself. You'll need a basic set of metric wrenches & med/deep sockets. Nothing extraordinary, but to give you an idea, front caliper bolts are 21mm, caster/camber plate nuts at the top are 18mm, fuse box 10mm, etc. Of course, if you decide to do it on your own, I'm sure you have a decent set. Also, I used a little loctite blue on the caliper bolts.

This Ball Joint Puller/Separater isn't necessary, but definitely handy(and highly recommended) when trying to separate the upper A-arm joint. I picked mine up cheap at Napa or Oreilly's a few years ago, can't remember:



Remove wheels, jack up the FRONT, put on parking brake, & put it on stands.

1. DRIVER SIDE

2. Get the fuse box on the driver side out of the way by removing the 3 nuts holding it in place(nut closest to engine is recessed).


3. Remove two brake caliper bolts. Support it somehow in which the brake lines are not strained. I set mine on a low step stool

4. Put jack under lower control arm and jack it up a little. You'll see the spring and shock compress. Pop out the little plugs holding brakelines to the shock and any other place that might get damaged when the lower arm drops.

5. With lower control arm supported by the jack: Remove swaybar link bolts. I've got the BW links so yours may look different. You may have to lower the jack so the lower control arm will drop enough to pop the bolt out.


6. With lower control arm supported by the jack: Remove upper A-arm nut. Use the puller to pop the joint apart. You can use a hammer if you don't have a puller, takes a mighty whack or two. Dropping the lower control arm may make it easier to separate.


7.Remove 4 bolts from caster/camber plate/shock tower.


8. With lower control arm supported by the jack: Remove the bolt holding the shock to the lower control arm. You'll have to let the arm down in order to pull this bolt out.


9. Once you've done this the entire shock assembly will drop down. You'll have to use a little elbow grease to get it (push upper A-arm upward), but it will come out.

10. Now that the shock assembly is out, remove the upper shock mount nut. Make sure to hold the shaft coming out of the shock (no clue what it's called) with a wrench as you remove the nut.


11. Make note of the orientation of the upper plate. Pull up and the shock mount/caster camber plate, & bump stop will come right off. Pull off old spring and install new aftermarket spring. Make sure the lower pig tail matches up where the old spring sat.

12. Put the upper plate/bump stop assembly back on in the same orientation you took it off. You might have to push down on the spring in order to get enough thread to show to get the nut on. Use a wrench to hold the shaft as you tighten the nut down.

13. Put the entire shock assembly back in. Go in reverse order to get everything back togethor. Start where the shock mounts on the lower control arm, ending with jacking the shock through the fender well and tightening the 4 bolts. Put brake lines back in place.

14. Put the brake calipers back on (I used a little loctite blue on the bolts). Reinstall fuse box.

15.PASSENGER SIDE

16. Remove coolant reservoir: This thing is mounted in three spots. There is one nut close to the engine, a clip holding it on the fender, and a molded plug on top of the fenderwell. Once the nut is removed and the clip popped off, pushing the reservoir towards the engine will "slide" it out. Also, pop off the black hose clip mounted on the shock nut.

17. The rest of it follows the driver side spring removal.

18. Install wheels & lower.


REAR

1. DRIVER SIDE

2. Place something in front of front tires, remove rear wheels, jack up the rear and support it on stands. Do not put the stands under the axle. Calipers do not need to be removed.

3. Place the jack under the axle between wheel & pumpkin and lift until spring & shock compress.

4.Remove the swar bar link upper bolt. You may have to lower the jack in order to allow the axle to drop enough to get this bolt out.


5. With axle supported by the jack: Remove the lower shock mount bolt. You may have to lower the jack in order to allow the axle to drop enough to get this bolt out.


6. Make note of the orientation of the spring's lower pigtail. Lower the jack and the axle will drop enough to get the spring out. You might have to push down on the axle a little bit to get enough clearance to get the spring out.

7. Remove the rubber bump stop by grabbing it and giving it a good pull. Cut about 1" off the bump stop. Don't skimp here, get at least 1". I used a hacksaw, not too difficult.


8. Install the bump stop. Make sure you push it all the way back up in place.

9. Install the aftermarket spring in the same orientation the lower pigtails were on the original spring. Make sure your upper & lower rubber isolators are in place.

10. Jack up the axle and install the lower shock mount bolt & sway bar link bolt.

11. PASSENGER SIDE

12. Exactly like driver side directions.

13. Install wheels & lower.


Installation took me about 3hrs & 45 minutes. Drive it around for a few days to allow the springs to settle then get an alignment.

:cool:

What a good write up man! That was cool of you to do it! Thanks!
 

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Just did mine last weekend and no need to remove the calipers. For my 2008 the nut on the bolt which ties the lower control arm to the strut assembly was a 24mm socket. This big size isn't usually in a tool box. If you don't have a ball joint seperatore Jeep put a flat spot on the near the upper control arm you can smack with a hammer to release the compression fitting. With some good reading this job is easy to do yourself. If someone gets into trouble or has questions feel free to give me a call at 904-318-1088. If you have the BWoody's sitting around waiting to get installed, don't be afraid, you will be extremely happy with the stance when done.
 
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