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Clicking/Taping only under normal acceleration, next to an object

865 Views 13 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  MikeHoncho8D
Seems to be a slew of threads about odd noises coming from these things, but I didn't see anything really similar to my situation.

I have a 2015 and just started hearing this at the end of last week. I can only hear it in lower gears (1st-3rd), while accelerating normally, but I have to be next to a wall or car to really hear it (it's very noticeable that way).

The noise sounds almost like a baseball card in a bicycle spoke, or maybe what an exhaust leak sounds like. It's tough to explain. I only hear it when I'm accelerating and maybe around 2500rpm and higher through 3rd gear. I haven't noticed it in 4th or 5th yet. I also don't notice any crazy noises at idle, but in park if I rev it to around 3K I feel I can start to hear it (not as audible as driving). I have noticed what seems to be a slightly rougher than normal idle. I can't tell if the clicking increases with RPM yet, but I'm leaning towards yes. I just haven't found a good test spot yet.

I took it to the dealer yesterday and explained my issue. They said it didn't seem like the noise was a cam/lifter issue, or anything drivetrain related, and they concluded that it was the purge valve sticking or something. They did some reset, or test which he said fixed it. They said I'd probably still hear it even if I replaced the valve with a new one and that this is a normal operating noise. I assume they didn't test drive or even raise the vehicle with a lift and run it through 1st through 3rd to diagnose the noise I was talking about, and probably thought I was talking about the purge noise. I explained that I haven't heard this noise before, and I definitely shouldn't be hearing purge clicking over my AWE exhaust. I thought I dodged a bullet in having to expedite my engine build, but I'm not so sure the dealer actually heard my issue.

I'm trying to get a video, but as I said I have to be beside something for the noise to bounce off of, but it's pretty loud at that point. Going to try to get a decent video tonight.
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Exhaust leak or its the injectors. These are very noisy engines to begin with.
So a little update here, CEL popped on tonight with code p219b. I haven't started researching too much yet, other than it states air/fuel mixture is off. So it could be that it's an exhaust leak messing up the o2 sensor readings which could explain the noise, as well as the slightly rough idle. Again, that's just what my mind immediately goes to when I see the description of the code. I'll dig into it some more. If anyone else has had that code, please chime in and let me know what the culprit was.

So far I'm seeing everything from people saying it's the PCV, or injectors, to needing a new top end. The dealer owes me a free diagnostic, so I'll drop it off over there first to see what they say. Most people's stories with a similar code taking it to the dealer, the dealer doesn't know what is going on. Hopefully mine is a little more competent.
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another update, dealer claims that my clicking/tapping issue, rough idle, and check engine light are due to a vacuum leak from the hose coming from my catch can to the back of the intake. I haven't picked it back up yet to see exactly where the issue is, but that's one step closer to not having to spend $13k to build the engine, or spend ~ $15K for a stroker engine earlier than I planned. I'll replace the hose and see if that fixes everything.
The hose might be collapsing under vacuum, or it could be leaking and the braiding hides it... Try a new hose.
Why wasn't it just replaced to confirm the diag?
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The hose might be collapsing under vacuum, or it could be leaking and the braiding hides it... Try a new hose.
Yeah, that seems to be the issue. No visible defects, but it’s leaking through somewhere. Just need to find a replacement hose.

Why wasn't it just replaced to confirm the diag?
they said because it’s aftermarket, they don’t have a hose to replace it with. So I’ll source a hose and hope for the best.

they said they were actually able to hear the noise I was explaining initially which was the whole reason I took it in last week, and they were able to trace it to one particular hose.
A little update. After I replaced the hose, and cleared the light, it obviously didn't fix the issue. The engine light never came back on, so I think the code was for leak, but it wasn't the main issue. After dropping it back off at the dealer, they found a stuck lifter which damaged the cam. So, I'll be getting it towed back to the house as is so I can install the suspension, then send it to a performance shop to do all of the upgraded parts for the cam and lifters, then dyno tune it.

Was hoping it wasn't going to be an expensive repair...oh well. At least I'll get a little more power out of it.
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You could always save yourself some cash and just do factory replacement parts.
Sorry it turned out to be the dreaded lifter issue. Well, now you have a good reason to upgrade the cam.
At a minimum do the MDS delete and maybe even a high flow oil pump.
You could always save yourself some cash and just do factory replacement parts.
The dealer (expensive anyway) quoted me $6800 to return to factory. The performance shop quoted me $7300 with aftermarket cam, mds delete, lifters etc., and a full dyno tune. I wanted to do this anyway, I was just hoping it was going to be on my own time.

Sorry it turned out to be the dreaded lifter issue. Well, now you have a good reason to upgrade the cam.
That's the plan! Now I'm just trying to find a nice choppy cam that will give me some decent power increase, that I won't also have to change the converter for. We looked into the Stage 2 HRT cam, I'm just not happy with how it sounds at idle.

At a minimum do the MDS delete and maybe even a high flow oil pump.
I didn't even think about the oil pump until a few days ago. I asked the question of what should I potentially change while the top of the engine is off, and most people said oil pump as well. So that and pushrods are going to get replaced.

There is also the possibility that I end up with a 411 stroker. It all depends on the cost as it would be cheaper doing it now while everything is apart, than having to pull everything off again down the road. Still not sure I want to put that much into it now with house remodeling going on, and a wedding coming up.
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Wow that's very pricey
Yeah, it's a little more expensive than the fox bodies and 4.6 mustangs I'm used to. Part of that $7300 though is the HP tuner and the PCM unlock. So that's a fair chunk in itself.
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