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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
anyone want to come to my house and install my fri little boy cam without taking the heads off. I'll pay you $420 cash and just tell me what else I need besides cam bolt, oil, coolant. I got no tools or garage lol but will buy a carport if the cold is a problem lol:D but maybe there's someone out there who knows what they're doing and could help a guy out :)
 

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Anyone desires to come to my house and install a twin turbo he he , I'll pay $2000 cash LMAO , This guy :D
 

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We do install parties quite often. You gotta drive it to Seattle though!
 

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Anyone desires to come to my house and install a twin turbo he he , I'll pay $2000 cash LMAO , This guy :D
It's worth a shot, I spoke to a guy today who use to have a jeep srt8 and he said some guy on here from upstate ny would come to your house to install a cam for a fair amount, that was awhile ago tho, who knows....


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· That guy..
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If you were closer and brought it to my house....

















It would still cost more than 420$ cash :)
 

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How'd you come up with exactly $420's what I wanna know? I doubt this is a 6hr job, especially when working outside...
 

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My cam install start to finish was 5.5 hrs. No joke. There were six of us crawling all over it and the guys I was with had done somewhere around 12 LX cam swaps before. They were shocked by how easy the Jeep is.


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if someone is willing to do it..i have a garage you can do it in for him.
 

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I did the cam in mine but I was replacing the whole motor. If there is a way to stop the lifters from dropping you can do it without taking the heads off and it really shouldnt be bad but I dont know if there is any way to stop that from happening.
 

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I did the cam in mine but I was replacing the whole motor. If there is a way to stop the lifters from dropping you can do it without taking the heads off and it really shouldnt be bad but I dont know if there is any way to stop that from happening.
All you need to do is remove the rocker arms, the lifters won't fall in. I had my Charger sitting without a cam overnight and the lifters didn't fall in.
 

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To give you step by step directions would take way too long.

Only advise I have is to find the hidden bolt on the ac compressor before prying. And replace the timing cover gasket.

I've never replaced the cam / crank bolt but it is cheap insurance.

This is a how to for the dodge rams. If you know how to wrench you know what all to take off to get to the timing cover.

http://hemitruckclub.com/Installs/Rammin Cammin Hemi/Rammin Cammin Hemi.htm
 

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can someone get me a writeup step by step on how to remove everything that needs to be taken out and what tools I need to take everything apart.

like I saw this but I need more details than that lol

http://lxforums.com/board/f71/instructions-tips-doing-cam-swap-86546/
Try this thread:
http://www.lxforums.com/board/f88/cam-head-install-library-thread-91603/

Also, from another member on LXF:
Below walkthrough compliments to MADCHARGER:


Sorry I don't have pics to go along with this, but since I did the work myself, I wasn't taking any picture breaks I think it's best not to show pics though, as the pics will make this job look much more intimidating than it really is. In the words of my wife, upon seeing my car disassembled: "Wow! That's ballsy"

The trick to this project, is having freezer bags that you can label for the hardware you remove for identification upon re-assembly. Any screws that can be put back where they were immediately after disassembly will make life much easier!

This past weekend was spent changing the cam on my 5.7. I didn't change the heads, as I already have Indy P&P heads on there. I have changed the hemi heads before though, so I'll add that to the list if anyone is interested.

This is obviously not a job for those that are nervous about changing their own oil - but it can certainly be done by the weekend warrior with some basic mechanical skills, with the normal hand tools - and just a few special tools.

The following is a list, in order of the process - along with the approximate time it will take to complete.

1. Remove front fascia - 30 minutes. This is very easy.
-Pop out the plastic rivets holding the fenders to the plastic wheelwell shroud, 3 per side. These will need to be replaced, so be sure to pick some new ones up at the dealer, or auto supply store.
-Put the front end up on ramps, or stands, and remove the bottom splash covers.
-Remove the plastic rivets holding the fascia to the frame under the hood.
-Remove one of the screws on the inside of the fender, behind the wheelwell shroud you freed earlier. The second screw, closer to the front, just needs to be loosened, as it's a shoulder screw that the fender slides onto.
-The hardest part, is removing the fender screw that is behind the turn signal lens. You'll need one of those 10mm ratchet box wrenches to get to it. Remove the other screw holding the fender that is easier to get to.
-Pull the fascia out, slowly, one side at a time. The turn signal lens will pop out, and you'll need to disconnect the wire connection. Repeat on the other side - then pull the fascia off and place on the front lawn (yes, you might be a ******* for a while).

2. Remove Fan assembly (10 minutes)
-Not much to this. Just a few bolts, and off it comes.

3. Remove Radiator (1 hour)
-You'll first need to dump as much coolant as possible. Remove the coolant reservoir cap, place a bucket under the car where the drain pet**** is, at the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. Open the pet****, and allow the coolant to drain from the radiator. Should be about a gallon.
-Close the pet****, and move your bucket under the lower radiator hose, and remove it. The clamps on these hoses are a PITA, and you'll need some channel locks to open them. Repeat for the upper radiator hose.
-Remove the lower frame brace that holds up the radiator (4 bolts)
-Remove the 2 upper radiator bolts that hold the brackets on top of the radiator.
-Do not disconnect any A/C lines. Simply drop the radiator down to rest at an angle on the floor, giving you access to the crank pulley.

4. Remove crank pulley (20 minutes)
-You'll need a small 3 jaw puller for this, along with a 13/16th impact socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar. I bought a large torque wrench for this, as it will need to be torqued upon reinstall anyway.
-Shove a socket driver into the pulley, to keep it from turning when you break the bolt loose (don't worry, you won't break anything). The breaker bar should be at least 2 feet long for proper leverage. Give it a good whack to break the bolt loose. Then use the puller to pull it off.

5. Remove timing case (1 hour)
-Remove Altenator. Disconnect electrical connections and move out of the way.
-Remove A/C compressor (just set aside, no need to pull from engine bay.
-Remove serpentine belt by moving the idler pulley counter clockwise.
-Remove idler pulley assembly
-Remove timing case bolts that bolt it to the block. No need to remove the water pump, although some of those bolts go all the way to the block, and need to be removed.
-Remove the bolts where the oil pan connects to the timing case.
-When you're certain you've removed all of the correct bolts, use a wrench to pry the cover off. It will seem like it's still bolted on at first, but thats just the gasket giving it a tight seal. Do not force it though. If it doesn't pop off with medium pressure, you probably missed a bolt that holds it on. Once it pops off, slide it out from up top, and set aside. You'll need your bucket below, as plenty of coolant will come out when you pop the seal. Some coolant will undoubtedly go down into the oil pan, so be sure to change your oil after everything is buttoned back up!
-Remove the bolts holding the oil pump on, and just slide the oil pump off the crankshaft, and set aside. Don't try to remove the whole thing from the oil pan.

6. Remove pushrods (3.5 hours)
-Remove valve covers. Believe it or not, this is the most difficult part of the whole job! The passenger side cover is very difficult to get to the lower bolts. You'll need a long 8mm socket, although not too long, as there is very little room to work back there. The one rear lower bolt took about an hour and a half by itself for me! Perhaps there's a better tool to do this?
-Once the valve covers are off, remove the rocker arms, loosening the bolts from the middle out, a little at a time to avoid stress on any one side of the arm. Once the rocker arms are removed, pull the pushrods out. Make note where the smaller rods go, and where the larger rods go.

7. Remove Camshaft (1 hour)
-Rotate the engine by hand, by screwing the crankshaft bolt back into the crankshaft. you want to line up the timing marks on the crankshaft gear, and camshaft gear. You'll want the crankshaft to have the timing mark at 6:00, and the keyway at 2:00. The cam timing mark should be at 12:00. Since you'll be tightening the crankshaft bolt while turning the engine, it's a bit tricky to break it loose again without your timing marks moving counter clockwise. You'll need to see how far it moves, then do it again, moving your timing marks that much farther past 12:00, so that when you loosen the bolt again, it will move back to 12:00.
-Remove the camshaft bolt.
-Pin back the timing chain, using a small allan key through the pin holes on the thrust plate. This will loosen the chain enough to pull the timing chain assembly off.
-Remove the camshaft thrust plate, exposing the camshaft.
-put a long bolt in the end of the camshaft, so you have some leverage to pull it out.
-Before pulling it out, rotate it by hand several times (very easy to do). This will move the lifters up into the plastic retainers, holding them in place when you remove the cam.
-Slowly rotate the cam as you pull it out. Try not to let it drop down and bang around on the way out. Nice and slow.....

8. Replace camshaft (10 minutes)
-Immediately after removing the old cam, be prepared to install the new cam. No lube necessary for a roller cam.
-Again, very slowly slide the new cam in, turning it as you place it in. Take your time, and try not to let it bang around on the way in. You do NOT want to knock any of the lifters down, otherwise you'll need to pull the heads to remove them!
-Install the thrust plate back on, and then the timing chain. Be sure to line up the timing chain marks again!

Bolt everything back up, in the opposite order it all came off. This is actually MUCH easier and faster than taking it apart! Be sure to refill your coolant, using the bleed valve to allow air to escape. Then change your oil!!
When you first start it up, it will clatter like mad, but that's perfectly normal, and will go away after about 5-10 minutes. Get yourself a beer, and pat yourself on the back for saving a grand on install charges. Total time by yourself should be about 11 or 12 hours. A helper should cut that time down a few hours.

Once again, if you've read this far - get a life!!

Don't be scared - it's easier than it sounds.....

part 2:
How about some part numbers for gaskets, head bolts, header bolts and some torque specs? I'll start researching, but maybe someone (Erik?) has them handy.

OK, per the parts manual:

6.1L Head Gasket (2)- 5037 592AA
6.1L Intake Manifold Gasket (2) - 5037 503AA
6.1L Head to block bolt primary (20) - 6506 694AA
6.1L Head to block bolt secondary (10) - 6506 334AA
6.1L ARP Head Stud Kit - http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Crank bolt (1) - 6506 340AA
OEM 6.1L Header bolt (16) - 6503 131; Hex flange head M8x1 bolt
Stage 8 Locking Header Blots - http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku

5.7L Hedman Header Exhaust Gaskets - http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

From the service manual:
"Tighten the cylinder head bolts in three steps using
the sequence provided :
-Step 1— Snug tighten M12 cylinder head bolts,
in sequence, to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) and M8 bolts
to 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) torque.
-Step 2— Tighten M12 cylinder head bolts, in
sequence, to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) and verify M8
bolts to 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) torque..
-Step 3— Turn M12 cylinder head bolts, in
sequence, 90 degrees and tighten M8 bolts to 34
N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque."


ROCKER ARMS:
CAUTION: Ensure that retainers (2) and rocker arms (4) are not overlapped when torquing bolts.

CAUTION: Verify that pushrod is installed into rocker arm (4) and tappet correctly while installing rocker
shaft assembly. Recheck after rocker shaft has been torqued to specification.
LX ENGINE - 6.1L SERVICE INFORMATION 9 - 2507
CAUTION: The rocker shaft assemblies are not
interchangeable between intake and exhaust. The
intake rocker arms are marked with the letter “I”.
3. Install rocker shaft assemblies in the same order
as removed.
4. Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 22 N·m (195 in.
lbs.) torque,using the sequence provided.
CAUTION: DO NOT rotate or crank the engine during
or immediately after rocker arm installation.
Allow the hydraulic roller tappets adequate time to
bleed down (about 5 minutes).
 

· Straight Up Beast SON!!!
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In that case it should be fairly easy, just a lil time consuming.
Yup Ekaz and I installed the cam on my Jeep and all I did is turned the cam clockwise like 4 times and then removed the stock cam. Next we lubed the new cam up and I inserted it into the engine very carefully....
 

· That guy..
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Yup Ekaz and I installed the cam on my Jeep and all I did is turned the cam clockwise like 4 times and then removed the stock cam. Next we lubed the new cam up and I inserted it into the engine very carefully....
U lubed and inserted while he watched?

Yeah thats how I do my cams. Spin it 4-5 times and pull out slowly. Being careful to not knick the cam bearings.
 
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