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QBN,
There was a thread showing the install documents for the Bwoody end links. It shows the Passenger side link on the outside (closest to wheel), and the driver's side on the inside. This seems to be the opposite of the way yours is installed. The way you seem to have described it, is that your drivers side is inside, and the passenger side is on the outside, correct?

Can you move both sides to the inside of the bracket? It looks as if you were to invert the link and flip it around, the offset would take care of itself and both end links could be moved to the inside. Are the upper and lower ends of the end links two different bolt sizes? If not, this should work. I was just curious if you, or anyone else, tried this yet?

I was washing the ride today and was taking a look behind the wheel at the stock links, and it seems very tight with the GY run-craps. Considering in stock configuration that both end links are on the outside of the bracket, it seems that it would not matter if the Bwoody's are on the inside or outside considering the Bwoody links relocates one side to the inside of the bracket.
 

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Yes, Bridgestones on the rear of the vehicles. They are a bit wider than other 315's because of the sidewall.
 

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QBN,
There was a thread showing the install documents for the Bwoody end links. It shows the Passenger side link on the outside (closest to wheel), and the driver's side on the inside. This seems to be the opposite of the way yours is installed. The way you seem to have described it, is that your drivers side is inside, and the passenger side is on the outside, correct?

Can you move both sides to the inside of the bracket? It looks as if you were to invert the link and flip it around, the offset would take care of itself and both end links could be moved to the inside. Are the upper and lower ends of the end links two different bolt sizes? If not, this should work. I was just curious if you, or anyone else, tried this yet?

I was washing the ride today and was taking a look behind the wheel at the stock links, and it seems very tight with the GY run-craps. Considering in stock configuration that both end links are on the outside of the bracket, it seems that it would not matter if the Bwoody's are on the inside or outside considering the Bwoody links relocates one side to the inside of the bracket.
Here it goes bro.
Took some pics to show you the rear end links while I was washing the Jeep. And yes I take the rims off to wash them on the inside and do the under-body. Not always thou. :D
Hope that helps...



Rear passenger side...


Rear driver side...


Here's before the Bwoody end links...
Note how much that sticks out. :eek:





Front Bwoody End Links since we are at it... :D





Edit: A couple more pics :D



 

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Thanks Mario! So can you advise me on greasing these things. God forbid their paperwork advises on greasing.

(Side Rant!):(
I got the Bwoody's in, they have zerk fittings as I requested. Unfortunately, one of the superior genius minds at bwoody decided to tap a zerk fitting into the edge of the weld....friggin' morons. I will just wait until the weld cracks and build my own set. It is not even worth my time to call them, as I need to get the new tires on ASAP. I highly advise against anybody even ordering these like this. I even had a distinct conversation with one of the tech guys about placement of the zerks. I just hope to god they have enough metal there to keep the thread of the zerk from hitting the bushing, but I am sure they did not put that much thought into it. I even asked them to verify they could do it before agreeing to it. The powdercoat looks like crap, and there is f'n scratches all over them. These people suck!

So back to the original question of greasing...do we grease between the bushing and washers? Grease in the shaft of the bushing that the bolt goes through? Anywhere else?
Getting the tires put on at 7am Saturday morning, so any response soon would be helpful.
 

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Haven't greased mine. No squeaks yet.
Can you take a pic of the zerk fittings issue you have?
 

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Sure. Here you go. Tried to take a few pics from the phone. Notice the scratches if the pics came out alright.
 

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Wow those pics came out really crappy.

Sorry. It's the best I have to work with right now.
 

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Sure. Here you go. Tried to take a few pics from the phone. Notice the scratches if the pics came out alright.
Damn...! Now I see what you mean. I think I see the scratches if its those black patches.
Just don't give up your day job bro, photography is not for you. :D
Nah, kidding aside thanks for the pics...
 

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The photography is horrible I know. But being a mechanical engineer is more profitable. ;)

I am seriously thinking about running some stress analysis on this part....Hmmm...however, I would need to work backwards from the weight shift under max body roll at maximum g-force to calculate the maximum stress condition of the sway bar. And only then can I compute some stress analysis of the member and see if crack propagation is likely around the weld. God I hate when morons design stuff...and when I say design I mean grab a drill and tap set and do their worst.

And you don't even need to do the nerd math to realize that tapping a hole into a weld is a bad idea. The only plus side is that it is somewhat central to the link where stresses go to a minimum based on bend and shear. I just don't understand why they didn't use 90-degreee ells instead of straight fittings and just put them at the top center of the link. It's not like there is any interference around the link for greasing. You think these guys would have the experience with all of their custom part manufacturing. F'n amateurs.

Please do not get me started on the depth of the zerk threads as they approach the bushings. There is an SAE short thread fitting for thinner material, and by the looks of the horrible installation of the fitting in the weld, it appears these idiots used the longer thread and not the 5/32" thread. The distinctive appearance of the 5/32" thread is a "shoulder toward the top of the thread near the drive.....I shall reiterate...MORONS.

I have said my peace about this. It is done. Thanks for letting me vent, as something so simple should not be this difficult. Now back on to the Bridgestones, as this is the point of the thread. I will report back and inform of their performance after tomorrow's install. I am excited to get rid of the Crapyears.
 

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BTW Mario, I may try to mount both links to the insides of the body bracket and see how it goes. I will let you know. Do you know anybody that tried this?
 

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Today sucked. Got rubbing on the driver's side with the Bwoody's and the new Bridgestones. I actually helped the tech at Firestone change out my rear tires (I didn't trust them with my rims) and walked through the rear end link install while he did it. The rear tires were a beeeotch! I should have gone to a custom rim shop to get them installed, but it all worked out fine. The firestone by my house was ill-prepared for squeezing the 315's on the rears.

So onto the rear end links, after setting the jeep back down with new end links and bridgestones, the drivers rear upper end link bolt (this is the low profile bolt) was literally resting on the tire's sidewall. So back up goes the jeep.

We then "Finesse" the steel plate with a BFH and various tools.

Re-install the Bwoody end link, mount the tire, and drop the truck....still very too close for my liking to the tire....back up goes the jeep.

Third time's the charm! Decide to re-install factory driver's side end link in lieu of the Bwoody, drop the truck, and now plenty of room between the factory upper end link bolt and the new 315.

The "fact" that the Bwoody's create more clearance is false...to some extent. However, what it did enable me to do was use the bwoody on the passenger side as it is moved towards the inside (away from the tire), and maintain the stock link on the driver's side for maximum tire clearance. There will be absolutely no rubbing in this configuration.

So all-in-all, the new 315's are all kinds of BADAZZEDNESS. A few small hiccups with the driver's side rub, which I should have banged the plate inwards in the first place to avoid the intermediate of the 3 attempts to get it to fit, but still did not get the new Bwoody end link on the driver's side...whatever.

Now, I have a solution that some may be pleased with for the driver's side rub. The reason we cannot mount the driver's side end link on the inside is a clearance issue with the fuel tank support bracket. My proposed solution is going to be to custom fabricate the plate in which the upper end of the end link attaches to, which will relocate the fastening point of the upper sway bar link away from the fuel tank bracket. This means that the end link will have to be shortened about 3/4" for the driver's side link to keep the geometry consistent from side to side, which will involve a little customization to the link, or just build a new one. BTW, I would probably use a piece of aluminum plate and put some shine in the wheel well. I would also make a new plate for the passenger side, but retain the factory mounting locations.

What is accomplished by doing this if I decide to do so? A guarantee that I will never rub a tire on a bolt head, and maybe even conducive to a fatter tire in the future. A cool piece of shiny aluminum in the wheel well for no reason but my own. But for now, I will keep the crappy looking stock piece on the driver's side for an assured no-rub situation and enjoy these sweet Bridgestone runflats...no air pump and patch kit for me suckas!

Even with all the trial and error above, this still did not take that long to do. Do not be discouraged if you are thinking of going with the Bridgestones. Just follow what was done above for a guarantee no rub, or roll the dice like QBN and get lucky that it will work out without any rubbing. But remember that the Bwoody's are a necessity (in my opinion) for getting these tires on.
 

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i looked at my links, they look stock, but there are round allen bolts not hex head bolts so the bstone 315s clear, no rubbing.
 
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