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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

New to the posting side of this community. Have always looked here for info but sadly I need help from all of you.

I have a 2010 with about 104,000 miles on it. I am the second owner and know the first owner with the entire history of the car. it has been babied ever since it was born. I was driving to work and came to a stop, I looked down as I didn't feel the regular rumble of the hemi and see that I'm at 0 rpm and the engine has stopped. No warning signs, lights, or sounds. Got it towed to a dealership and they said "engine is sized" and I questioned it and they continue to say "seized". Engine hasn't been taken apart to fully diagnose yet, but they claim it wont turn at all. Got it towed to a different jeep dealership and waiting to hear back from them.


What should I do?

I know it all comes down to what this place says, but do I replace the engine if I can find another 6.1 (done my own research and cant seem to find any)? Do I rebuild if I can? Is a 392 swap possible or even smart? Just sell the car and move on?

Thank you in advance for any help if anyone still cares about the WK1 :)
 

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Was it overheating? Oil level? Seized to me means a spun/locked bearing. If so, I start thinking crank, rod and/or block are going to need work. The expensive road is to buy a factory short/long block or engine, I think. Last time I gandered at that, they started at $6k + install for a engine. $25k for a better than Hellcat engine (dual supercharged), as I recall. Might be different now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No overheating and oil level normal. Literally no signs leading up to the issue. all electronics worked and was able to put it in neutral so really wondering what it could be? wondering if the stealership just wants my money and are misdiagnosing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Would it crank when you tried to restart it or was it locked?
I turned off and instantly tried to restart because I was on the off ramp of a busy highway and I believe it did once or twice. Didn't want to risk any damage so didn't try again.
 

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It would be helpful to know if it can cranked normally as opposed to laboring. Turning it by hand is safer, using the bolt at the dampener (attached pict arrow). If they haven't tried that already, sure would like to know why.
 

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97k miles I gauled a rod bearing, caught it in time. Seems after a bunch of reading, bearings & lifters prone to failure around our mileage #s.
 

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Where are you located? Many on this forum are willing to give others a hand. Never (or very seldom lol) hurts to have someone else take a look
 

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Where are you located? Many on this forum are willing to give others a hand. Never (or very seldom lol) hurts to have someone else take a look
I'm S98203 and located in the Seattle area (actually Everett, WA 98203). Not sure who that question was direct to though (lol).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
UPDATE: They said 100% seized engine. Will cost about $1000 to diagnose exact cause. Is this worth it? Asked about a 6.2 swap and they said its not reasonable as i would need new transmission and chances are it wouldn't fit right. Has anyone done this yet? Does anyone know where a decent 6.1 can be found (I found one but it has 150xxx miles and im only at 103xxx). Any advice on what to do is much appreciated.
 
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