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Another amp hookup to MyGig ???

3054 Views 19 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Edmonton SRT
I'd like to hook up a Clarion amp I have laying around to power a sub, since the Kicker one's no longer available. Mine's an 08 with MyGig.
Why can I not take a speaker signal from the factory amp and input it to the Clarion amp's speaker level inputs?
Why does everyone advise using that converter thing instead?
And is this it?
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Use the LOC and pull the signal from a speaker in the rear door.
it should work just as the kicker setup with the speaker level for signal.
most dont like speaker level input because they are noisy.(engine wine)
Ok, thanks. So I've been searching.....I want to take a signal from the speaker out wires to one of the rear doors, for easiest install, right? Can I take remote signal off the factory amp too? And where do you guys usually run the ground? Going to try this tomorrow.
What can go wrong?!
Here is my setup... a work in progress.


Roll Out!!
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post above is right about engine noise associated with speaker level want the line level converter, not only does it provide a filtered, stable input, but also 95% of them have adjustable gain on each channel so you can dial the input level down a bit to suit your amp....if equipped with the boston system our jeeps have a mono output for the kicker amp even though it wasnt part of the package...this output is a low pass filtered channel and is IDEAL to be the point where you grab your source for your amp and new for the ground, the best location to run to is one of the seat mounting bolts, they are double plated with steel to increase tear strength on impact and are flawless for grounding purposes...there is a vacant grommet in the firewall right beside the master cylinder which is perfect for your batt/ for the remote i have found that the left hand power port in the center stack is the best place to grab the switched 12v source...amp on with key on, amp off with key take it one step further our jeeps come set up with the front doors only receiving a bass signal, the speakers in there right now are 6x9 WOOFERS...change them out to a 3 or 4 way speaker and still all youre going to get is the bass frequency, NO REAL cannot imagine how incredible these trucks sound if you convert the front door speakers to 3 or 4 ways AND have them produce full sound!!!! its really not that hard, change out the speakers(5 min per door) then pull the front door sill plates, find the right wires, cut and tie back in and youll be in a concert hall!!! if anyone wants i can right up the conversion for the forum, pics and wiring colors as well....hope this helps.
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Wow, that's lots of good info. I wanted the kicker single sub, but got tired of looking for one. So I picked up a kicker dx250.1 and 10c104 sub. Had to build a box for it last night, as I couldn't find a box to fit under the cargo cover bar, but still be thin enough to not take up too much space. Installed the amp using the amp speaker level inputs, as I hadn't read your post yet, but the stereo shop guy said the amp's high level inputs have a converter build in, and you can adjust the input gain on the amp. Just have to mount the sub in the box this morning, after the box dries. So we'll see how it sounds. I ended up "converting" a pair of rca cables to use for the speaker level inputs. You're probably right about the input, and I'll have to rewire that part of it! I'll post after the test.
ive done the rca cut and splice to work a time or two myself!!! think about this for a minute...youve tied into the speaker line for your signal to your amp, this "hi" level range on your dx250 is 250mv-10v...thats a pretty wide range, the "lo" level range for this amp is 125mv-5v or half that of the "hi" level...most of the time your speaker level power will be within this range but when you turn it up you can most definately surpass that 10v threshold...what does this mean??? your amp is not going to turn off or go into protect or anything like that, but will become distorted as hell as it trys to cope with the high voltage level that the input is dont want this....most people think that the gain on an amp is there so you can "crank" up the power to get more bottom out of your subs....110% not true, the gain is there because different radios put out different sound signal voltage levels-the gain lets you set the amps level to that which matches the source units output is where the line level converter comes in...whereas your "hi" level inputs are constantly swinging up and down with the sound that is playing the converter stops takes this swinging signal and stabilizes it so that when you set up the amp to where it sounds best thats all she wrote-no matter how high you turn up the volume and how high the signal voltage spikes the converter will keep the signal going to your amp nice and steady....the reason for the gain on the line level converter is sometimes you may only be able to grab the amplified signal of a speaker lead, in this case you need to be able to reduce the signal before it gets to the amp...and for about 10 bucks theyre not that hard on the wallet either...i know i kind of went off on a tear there for a minute but the more people understand about how the system theyre setting up works the higher the odds theyll be able to tune it to the sound they want...hope this helps someone.
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Hmmmm. Thanks for the info. I was under the impression the circuitry of the amp did all the work of a loc when using speaker level inputs. Why buy a loc to wire externally, when there's already one inside the amp? Maybe that's why it doesn't sound as great as I thought it would. Really boomy bass with volume super low, doesn't turn up at same rate as volume. I guess next step will be ebaying me a loc.
youre exactly right!!! thats the issue that the gain on the line level converter fixes, instead of the amp getting that high powered signal(read as high volume subs at low level volume) from the speaker leads it gets the same level signal that the other channels in the factory amp get....still though, i would go line level converter to crossover with bass knob to amp...youll get exactly what youre looking for
Or if you are feeling super cheap, just tie into the outputs on the amp for the rear speakers with your speaker level inputs on your amp. Need to tone down the sub a bit? Fade to the front.
By the way, seat belt bolts are terrible grounds. Find somewhere to grind away some paint to bare metal and use a heavy duty nut and bolt with lock washer to secure it.
Try turning the bass on the deck to flat 0, and turn off any bass boost on the amp. Personally, I like the sound of my low pass filter around 80 hz (x-over). There are a few how tos floating around online on how to properly set your gain with a multimeter...also double check the cubic feet of the box vs. what the sub calls for. Doing these may help decrease the boomy sound you are experiencing.
You can't tie into the rear speakers and feed signal to the subs-our jeeps only send mid/hi level sound to the rear speakers...all of the bass signal is routed to the front door 6x9 subs...and as for the fade thing that won't work either because if you tie into the front door leads for your bass signal then when you fade to the rear to lower the bass you lose the dash speakers which is where the vast majority of the mid/hi imaging comes from...furthermore the rear seat mounts ARE the best location for the ground...not sure about your reasoning for the above post but when people don't know systems and how they function it can cause many more problems down the road with dissatisfaction in their sound not to mention the $ it will cost to pay someone( like me) to go in and fix what they could have done themselves in the beginning
Well isnt that jeep must be a freak of nature. I have mine wired as previously stated and the signal IS being pulled from the factory amps rear speaker output with perfect, low, hard hitting bass. The fade also works flawlessly. The grounding post above stems back to having numerous high end amps frying themselves. Not sure what you are installing at your shop, but from what i have seen, seat belt bolts will lessen the life of the amp. And i know all about fixing peoples stuff, i have 13 years experience in various 12 volt applications, which is nearly half my life. Its up to the OP where he grounds his amp. However, I would never do it that way.
yep, it must be a freak......grand cherokees have been set up that way since 1999 with the introduction of the WJ...not going to get into a pissing contest with you over what youve seen, fact is if an amp is installed correctly in the first place then it should be fine no matter what you do to it, only variable there would be input sources....not sure what your 12v experience consists of and not sure that it really matters unless it is related to 12v audio components...forums are available to help people that need advice on issues where they lack knowledge or experience and can rely on that of others that have that knowledge, not conjecture based on what may or may not be the case.....i could care less about online tough guy syndrome, fact is the guy needed some sound advice, i gave it based on fact, you replied and provided misinformation which could lead him to more issues, i corrected your response and you got your ass on your shoulders....its not a big deal, i just dont like to see people misdirected.
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Yes, 50% of that time is in car audio. And misinformation? Whatever man. Dont you have a sat. radio install to do at best buy?

WOW, anyway, as for the original point of your post youve got the concept of how it works...just take your time and think through it, if you need help just ask...NOW, ive got a satellite radio to install
Just wanted to update this after some changes. I could no longer take the horrible, unbalanced sound from the Kicker sub and amp I added to my RER. It was hooked up with speaker level inputs, and produced distorted, muddy, boomy, terrible bass. So I picked up a $20 "e2" LOC, and wired it in temporarily just to see. Wow. This is how it should have sounded from the start. The amp's only putting out 150 W or so, so it won't shake you out of your seat, but most of the low volume boominess and lack of any sub at high volumes is mostly gone. For anyone looking at wiring in a sub, coming from someone who did it wrong first, you need a LOC, no matter what some say about high level inputs doing the same thing.
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