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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, so I have a 2008 GCSRT8 that I just picked up, fully loaded w/nav but not the Kicker system (even though the ad said it). Like most here the BA's just aren't doing it, so I'm going to install aftermarket speakers, sub/amp...but I'm unsure of what to do about powering the speakers. I've read a lot of threads on how to wire subs, but need help completing my plans.

Here's what I've bought so far:
- PAC Audio C2A-CHY3 (just in case)
- Infinity Kappa 32.9cf 3.5" for the Dash
- Focal Access 690 A1 6"x9" for Front Doors
- Focal Access 165 A1 6.5" components for the Rear Doors
- Planet Audio BB1400.1 1900W mono amp
- Alpine SWX-1243 12" X-type Sub
- Dynamat Door Kit
- Crutchfield speaker harnesses

Here's what I'm wondering:
1) For the speakers, should I power them with an aftermarket amp, or with the stock amp, or with the Kicker amp (if I can find it)? Advantages/Disadvantages?

2) If with an aftermarket amp, how do I power the dash speakers if I only have a 4 channel amp?

3) Will any of the mods above affect my Nav/DVD/etc? I'd like to maintain full functionality.

4) If an aftermarket amp is the way to go, what is the best way to run power to the 2 amps? Single line into a distribution block?

5) If an aftermarket amp, what is the best way to wire up the speakers? Splice into the stock amp harness?


Sorry for the length, I wanted to try to answer any questions that might come up ahead of time...and thanks for any advice you all can provide.
 

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PWR - Boosted & Stroked
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The amp is behind the plastic cover in the cargo area on the drivers side. You sure you don't have the Kicker system & someone just stole the sub out of it? See if there is a harness behind the rear seat where the cargo floor meets back there more towards the drivers side.

edit also only real late 08's had the Kicker option

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No harness that I can see. Tried to look through the speaker grills to see if the kicker speakers were behind, but everything looks black. I also did the thing where you turn the volume down 2 notches then up 2 within 3 seconds. I read if you have the kicker that will initiate the Surround Sound mode, but mine did nothing. I know that once I have the panel off he kicker amp part number starts with 6.
 

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The Traveler
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Any badges on the front door speaker covers? Mine had BA labels. I thought with kicker there were kicker labels.


Sent from my iPhone 4S
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No labels at all.
 

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PWR - Boosted & Stroked
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No harness that I can see. Tried to look through the speaker grills to see if the kicker speakers were behind, but everything looks black. I also did the thing where you turn the volume down 2 notches then up 2 within 3 seconds. I read if you have the kicker that will initiate the Surround Sound mode, but mine did nothing. I know that once I have the panel off he kicker amp part number starts with 6.
Never heard that before but there is a surround/stereo option in the EVIC with the Kicker amp.
Any badges on the front door speaker covers? Mine had BA labels. I thought with kicker there were kicker labels.


Sent from my iPhone 4S
Nope no labels anywhere with the Kicker system except on the sub itself.

Jim
 

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The Traveler
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Thought I've seen the kicker labels before. I know if you bought the kicker upgrade it came with new labels to put over the BA labels. At least when I was looking at doing it that's what it showed.


Sent from my iPhone 4S
 

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PWR - Boosted & Stroked
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Thought I've seen the kicker labels before. I know if you bought the kicker upgrade it came with new labels to put over the BA labels. At least when I was looking at doing it that's what it showed.


Sent from my iPhone 4S
Well than I got ripped off, none in either one, but they are both factory. They dont have that little spot for the BA label though either.

Jim
 

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The Traveler
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So what do you all think is the best way to power these aftermarket speakers I want to install? Do you know of any SRT owners who have done something similar?
 

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TYM2JET
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I am having my system done next weekend. I would use aftermarket amps to power your speakers. I don't think the factory amp has enough power to really make them shine. I am using Alpine PDX 4.100 to power my doors with Boston Acoustics SR 6.5 components. I also have BA SE 35 for the front dash. I picked up a small Alpine amp with 50 watts a channel to power those. As for bass, I had a box made by davetheboxguy.com. I am using to 2 Dayton Audio HO 10's powered by a Alpine PDX1.1000. I have a distribution block to run power to all the amps. I have a Pioneer Z130 controlling everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Medic. That's along the lines of what I was thinking. How are the speakers getting wired to the amp? New thicker gauge wires run to all locations, or by splicing into the stock speaker wires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yea, factory nav.
 

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the best way for sure is to use a factory amp bypass harness, with RCAs from the new head unit or converter to the amps you'll install later.. every GC has a amp in the back weather it be boston or kicker..... the 2010 came with the same smaller BA amp but al kicker speakers, mine doesn't have the badges either, not sure where those photos on WKjeep.com came from but you can see the door panels are the same and they never offered the kicker on the older gray interior
 

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With the PAC unit you can run rcas to your amp for your door speakers and the dash can still run off the factory amp and run new wires directly to the amp for you door speakers
 
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Here's what I'm wondering:
1) For the speakers, should I power them with an aftermarket amp, or with the stock amp, or with the Kicker amp (if I can find it)? Advantages/Disadvantages?

2) If with an aftermarket amp, how do I power the dash speakers if I only have a 4 channel amp?

3) Will any of the mods above affect my Nav/DVD/etc? I'd like to maintain full functionality.

4) If an aftermarket amp is the way to go, what is the best way to run power to the 2 amps? Single line into a distribution block?

5) If an aftermarket amp, what is the best way to wire up the speakers? Splice into the stock amp harness?

No worries, your post wasn't very long... But this response will be.

1. Since you went the extra mile and bought Focal speakers(excellent choice, BTW) You'd be p*ssing in the wind by not feeding them the signal that they deserve. Aftermarket amplifier all the way. The stock electronics in our jeeps, from the nav unit to the speakers to the amp, is all rubbish. Every bit of it.

2. You'll need to either go with a 6-channel amp and use the amplifier's internal crossovers to split the sound between your midbass and your dash tweets, or just use a external crossover and a 4-channel amp. The two channels you dedicate to your front-end soundstage will be wired straight into the crossover, and then the crossover will split the sound from there(1 set of wires to your dash, 1 set to your doors.) You don't want to send a full-range signal to your dash speakers(ie. the bass frequencies) much like you dont want a full-range signal going to your door speakers(primarily the highs) which is where the crossover will solve that problem.

Now this is, of course, assuming that you are going to use all-new wires to power those outstanding speakers you've spent all that money on. If you don't, the factory wiring is going to be your downfall. Too much resistance.

3. Adding an amp/speakers to your vehicle will not affect any of your head unit's functionality.

4. Assuming your power and ground wires are a heavy enough gauge, a distribution block should be fine. no sense in running extra power wires, since you're not going to be putting that much power to all of your speakers anyways.

5. You'll want line-out converters so that you can feed a signal to your amps. The way I did mine (before I went to an aftermarket head unit), and suggest you should too, is to use the INPUT wires that go from the head unit to the factory amplifier as your source. Tie into the wires right at the factory amp. That way, you're only running wires from the back of the vehicle to the amplifier, which I would assume you're also going to put in the back of the Jeep aswell. Less wires=cleaner install. A quick browse on the internet for a Pin-out sheet will tell you what wires you'll be using.

once you've wired your amp for your door speakers up, all you have to do is use an RCA cable from the pre-out on your 4-channel amp to the input on your sub amp, and then you'll have a source for that, too. Keeps it simple.

Once again, if you want to get the best out of your speakers, you'll want to take an extra step here. Since the factory stereo equipment is such garbage, you should consider using a JL audio Cleansweep so that your sound quality is not compromised by the factory head unit. It doesn't make a huge difference to most people, but for people like me who want QUALITY QUALITY QUALITY, that's what I would suggest. I notice the difference in any vehicle, but I have audiophile ears.


If you want to simplify EVERYTHING in order to get the BEST quality audio from your setup.... ditch the factory head unit and go aftermarket. You'll be glad you did. Better sound quality, MUCH simplified amp wiring, and much better features.
Aftermarket head units can also be set up to be controlled by your steering wheel controls, so don't worry about losing their function.

If you have any technical questions, such as for wiring or equipment, let me know. I can help ya with it.
 

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OMG, 46 watts RMS x 8 at 2 ohms is not rubbish... plenty any speaker would ever need

7th channel is for the OEM subwoofer and 8th is unused...

and 100 watts per channel at 1 ohm for the OEM sub amp is no slouch either..

if you guys need more speaker out of these factory SRT jeeps then you bought the car for the wrong purpose....
 

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The output wattage has nothing to do with what makes the factory stereo garbage. It's the fact that the factory head unit and amp are low-quality hardware. The actual clarity of the signal, aswell as the true THD of the factory amp itself, is what makes it garbage. It doesnt matter if it puts out mega wattage, it's not the wattage that creates clarity.

Wattage only eccentuates and brings out the capabilities of the speakers. The difference in clarity of going even with a simple aftermarket head unit and NOT using any sort of external amplifier(wiring your speakers straight to the head unit), versus the factory head unit WITH the factory amplifier is unmistakable. The aftermarket head unit w/ NO amp blows the Factory unit W/ the Factory amp away. Even with the newer MyGig units/kicker amps...it is the same situation. Although I will say that the kicker amps are FAR FAR FAR better than the boston setup.

I do audio installations far too often, and I'll be the first to tell you...the factory system is garbage. It's sufficient for the average listener, and I can't criticize their ears for feeling that the factory system is sufficient. People hear things differently, and for me It wasn't good enough. Which is why I shelled out tons of money on my Jeep's stereo right away.
 
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