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I've got the 'clunk' please help

Guys, I have a 2015 SRT - when I accelerate from a dead stop, I get a small bump bump feel from my rear. I've read multiple threads where people had the same issue, but can find where it was eliminated. ANY HELP? Please. I've been to the dealer so much. They seem to think it's the subframe connectors. But they are afraid to pull the trigger on that. - it only happens when lightly accelerating from a. dead stop. It's not loud, but you can feel it for sure.

Any help? We've checked the transfer case and tightened up everything to spec. Still there. What to do?
 

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I am having this exact problem with my wife 14 SRT with 50k miles. Its still under powertrain warranty and right now I'm in the middle of the process with getting the dealer to accurately diagnose it. I never trust dealers anyhow but this is my journey so far and Ill keep it updated as I go in case we get it figured out.

First diagnosis was bad motor mounts. I thought this was b/s but they said they were bad and it cost me $180 for their diagnostic fee. They said it was 1500$ to replace them. I said no thanks and did them in my garage in less than the quoted time for about $150. I also replaced the transmission mount at this time just in case. I really felt this was unnecessary but in order to move forward it had to be done. I didn't feel like paying another diagnosis fee at another dealer just to be told the same thing so i bit the bullet on this one.

I brought the jeep back for a second diagnosis. Thankfully didn't pay another fee this time but the tech "discovered" that the driveshaft carrier bearing bracket was only secured with one bolt and the other was left off, causing it to be ****ed to the side. This would not be covered under warranty because they said it must have been worked on and reinstalled incorrectly. I called the dealer we bought it from since we were the second owners and there is no documented warranty work that would have removed the drive shaft. Oh well, bite the bullet again and move forward. During this inspection the tech also noted that all my differential mount bushings were in good shape. Quoted $1050 to replace the driveshaft by the dealer. Bought the part for $540 from dealer and installed myself. Clunk is still present

I'm going back Monday for a third attempt. At this point I feel like they're out of things to try to make money off of and have to start seriously considering the transmission or differential as the culprit. I asked on our first visit about a transmission controller reflash but was told it was okay. I may push that again just because I feel like its worth a shot.
 

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Im going through the same delima with my 2013 Jeep SRT8. Same exact clunk noise when driving from a stop.

Changed engine mounts and transmission mount, no change in clunk noise. I was told it could be a rear axle issue and described it as being hollow inside. Meaning all internals need to be replaced (rebuild job) or simply replace entire rear axles.

I dont know what to do specially that these attempts cost an arm and a leg.
 

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Im going through the same delima with my 2013 Jeep SRT8. Same exact clunk noise when driving from a stop.

Changed engine mounts and transmission mount, no change in clunk noise. I was told it could be a rear axle issue and described it as being hollow inside. Meaning all internals need to be replaced (rebuild job) or simply replace entire rear axles.

I dont know what to do specially that these attempts cost an arm and a leg.
When was the last time you changed your transfer case fluid? I posted right above you and have the same problem. I went to the dealer 3 times and spent $800 in parts. Their next diagnosis was the transfer case or diff needed to be rebuilt but they didnt want to cover it under warranty. I had an appointment with another dealer this coming Friday but my wife was doing some reading online about the transfer case fluid fixing this issue. For $30 (including a fluid pump) I drained it and put in some Castrol ATF-4 and the clunk has disappeared. Im still slightly in disbelief but my wife drove stop and go MD traffic this morning for 50 miles and the clunk is gone!
 

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Im going through the same delima with my 2013 Jeep SRT8. Same exact clunk noise when driving from a stop.

Changed engine mounts and transmission mount, no change in clunk noise. I was told it could be a rear axle issue and described it as being hollow inside. Meaning all internals need to be replaced (rebuild job) or simply replace entire rear axles.

I dont know what to do specially that these attempts cost an arm and a leg.
When was the last time you changed your transfer case fluid? I posted right above you and have the same problem. I went to the dealer 3 times and spent $800 in parts. Their next diagnosis was the transfer case or diff needed to be rebuilt but they didnt want to cover it under warranty. I had an appointment with another dealer this coming Friday but my wife was doing some reading online about the transfer case fluid fixing this issue. For $30 (including a fluid pump) I drained it and put in some Castrol ATF-4 and the clunk has disappeared. Im still slightly in disbelief but my wife drove stop and go MD traffic this morning for 50 miles and the clunk is gone!
Bought my car recently used from a private seller, no warranty.

What is this transfer case fluid? Can you elaborate on where i can buy? From dealership or online?

Will give it a try for sure. However i took my car to an independant mechanic and he assures me its a back axle problem. I Dont know!
 

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Bought my car recently used from a private seller, no warranty.

What is this transfer case fluid? Can you elaborate on where i can buy? From dealership or online?

Will give it a try for sure. However i took my car to an independant mechanic and he assures me its a back axle problem. I Dont know!
The transfer case fluid is Automatic Transmission fluid ATF-4. Mopar makes it but you can buy the Castrol brand ATF-4 thats Chrystler spec'd for about $7.50 a quart at autozone. I bought 3 quarts and a hand pump for transferring fluid for about $35. The only tools you need are the pump, a drain pan and an 8mm allen wrench or socket/ratchet. Theres a video on youtube and a thread somewhere that my wife found for visual aid. It takes about 20 minutes to do. You take the fill plug out, then the drain plug. Once drained, reinstall the drain plug and pump fluid in the fill hole with the pump and hose. Fill it until the fluid just starts coming out the fill hole. Let it drip the excess then reinstall the fill port plug. From what I found online the bottom of the fill port opening is the fill line since there is no dipstick.
 

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Pleeease refer to me the video! I dont have much mechanical knowledge, so what u said up there sounds foreign to me hehehehe

Appreciate your help 🙂
 

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Pleeease refer to me the video! I dont have much mechanical knowledge, so what u said up there sounds foreign to me hehehehe

Appreciate your help 🙂

This isnt the best how to video out there but there wasnt much. It does show you what youre looking for however. I missed my opportunity to make a good how to for this. Maybe next time!

I cant add links to my posts because I dont have enough time on this forum I guess. Just search " WK2 Jeep Grand Cherokee Transfer Case Fluid Change Tips " on youtube
 

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Sounds exactly like how my truck was when I bought my 14 srt pre-owned. I changed my differential's and tcase fluids and all my clunking went away within 10 minutes of driving. The clunking was so annoying. When was the last time the fluids were changed? I used the OE T-case fluid from Chrysler and I forget the brand of diff fluid i used but i know it had the shock proof in it.
 

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Watched a video on the transfer case fluid and noise....but i believe that is not the clunking i have. Mine is mainly felt after driving hard from a stop, feels like car is skipping from the back. Clunks once sometimes, other times feels like 2 or 3 clunks then goes away once u continue driving.
 

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Changed transfer case oil yesterday and magically my problem feels 90% fixed! Mechanic says, if we want to make it 100%, will have to open up the transfer case and check inside.
 

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Changed transfer case oil yesterday and magically my problem feels 90% fixed! Mechanic says, if we want to make it 100%, will have to open up the transfer case and check inside.
Awesome news! I'm in the same boat where I never thought a fluid change could fix the problem I was feeling.
 

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Mopar or non OEM fluids?

Are you guys sticking with mopar fluids, or using other stuff? My local shop uses amsoil which I’ve always liked, but wondered how sensitive these srt’s are to different fluid types. Every now and then certain vehicles/components don’t like non Oem fluids
 

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Are you guys sticking with mopar fluids, or using other stuff? My local shop uses amsoil which I’ve always liked, but wondered how sensitive these srt’s are to different fluid types. Every now and then certain vehicles/components don’t like non Oem fluids


I stuck with stock just to be safe. I may try something like amsoil next time. This was the first time I did it and I was trying to solve a problem so I wanted to eliminate any potential issues


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I’m going to change the diffs and TC this week
Will post results
Thanks
RJ
 

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So I got 2018 jeep srt 1 month back. Going in today with rattling and grinding noise on acceleration. The mechanic said 2 screws were loose . After I get the car the srt trademark roar is gone but the rattling and grinding noise is still there. 2 questions:
Is this due to transfer case and if so is it covered under lease warranty?
Is my car a lemon?
Please help. Saved money to buy this dream car turning out to be a nightmare.
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