[MiKro'12-SRT8]

Was wondering if others had the same problem… I’ve always babied my vehicles (shame on me, IK!) and blew the lifter/cam over cylinder #5. Dealer (hinted this is a common issue but never a recall) said I needed a new engine because metal fragments were found in the oil. Are the camshafts know to round off like this with zero abuse to this vehicle. I can possibly understand it happening to an abusive driver. What say you? thx!! FYI: to prove I baby my vehicles, the yellow car is mine… original owner! 32k😀

 

[White Elemant]

Cylinder 5 is one of the cylinders that deactivate when MDS is active. I really do not know, but there may be some connection there.

The fact that the dealer says it's common doesn't really mean much, basically this faul is more common than others, but as such not necessarily very common.

Metal chips in oil don't mean the engine absolutely has to be swapped, but the alternative is to dissassemble it, and as you block already had quite a few miles on it, it was prolly the cheapest option for a non-DIY project.

Have you meticulously maintained the car? As for the babying, I'm quite convinced it really is not that good for an engine that has the potential the 6.4 hemi has. The engine never gets to operate in high efficiency/load conditions, and may build up all kinds of crap in it.

 

[MiKro'12-SRT8]

Appreciate the feedback. 👍 When you say “MDS” are you referring to the ECO mode where a few pistons stop firing to conserve fuel? My definition of babying the vehicle is oil changes at 5k or less and PM maintenance per the manual. Never raced it or put the pedal to the metal more than a half dozen times(sounds like i need to work the engine a little harder . I have taken it on several road trips cross county all within the last 25k so long 8-10 hours days of travel stopping for fuel. 11 years old and not a door ding on it because I always park remote in a lot. Thanks for your input! 🙏

 

[White Elemant]

Yea, MDS is what Mopar calls the system that shuts down valves from half the cylinders on low load situations. It's a neat piece of engineering, but I think god intended us to use all the cylinders in an engine 😃

Actually I'm not sure which of the cylinders are shut down, now that I refreshed my memory... Two kinds of info in the web...

 

[MiKro'12-SRT8]

What’s your thoughts on an oil change after engine replacement? The dealer made no mention of a break in period with regards to an early oil change. In fact, the new oil change sticker indicates an oil change 5k miles out! 🙃

 

[White Elemant]

Definitely make the first interval shorter. During break in there will be some metal particles accumulating in the oil. That's totally normal, but there is no sense in letting those particles circulate any longer than necessary.

It is also customary in some cases to use specific break in oil for the first bit.

 

[MiKro'12-SRT8]

Definitely make the first interval shorter. During break in there will be some metal particles accumulating in the oil. That's totally normal, but there is no sense in letting those particles circulate any longer than necessary.

It is also customary in some cases to use specific break in oil for the first bit.

Much Appreciated!

 

[Moparjim79]

Lots of good questions here, but I will keep it simple- good job on staying up with the maintenance.

These engines do have a higher than normal failure rate. I was informed by a chrysler tech the 6.4 has a much tighter set of tolerances and when there is metal in the oil or loaded on the oil flow control valve, its an automatic failure and replacement is the only option the dealer will give. I'm going to respectfully disagree with that thought, but thats me and my opinion. Old school engine break in procedures were: 2k rpm for 20 mins, change oil. Light driving with brief full throttle bursts for 500 miles, change oil. Keep engine under 3k rpm for another 3k miles, change oil, then you're free to rip. In the owners manual of our cars, it says drive with some compassion for 500 miles, then you can increase the throttle and rpms, then at 3-6k miles (i think) change oil and its go time. Times and tech have changed a lot.

 

[malamri424]

I had an mds lifter fail as well, at 124k.

If the vvt solenoid had metal particles, the engine/long block needs to be replaced according to this:

Loading…

static.nhtsa.gov

 

[Leo77]

Replace your Lifters with Non-MDS Lifters!
This is the weak link with the 6.4L

 

[Mooner89]

Was wondering if others had the same problem… I’ve always babied my vehicles (shame on me, IK!) and blew the lifter/cam over cylinder #5. Dealer (hinted this is a common issue but never a recall) said I needed a new engine because metal fragments were found in the oil. Are the camshafts know to round off like this with zero abuse to this vehicle. I can possibly understand it happening to an abusive driver. What say you? thx!! FYI: to prove I baby my vehicles, the yellow car is mine… original owner! 32k😀 View attachment 233174

Got my srt8 tore apart now do to tapping noise on same cylinder. Well the lifter is seized up with a flat spot. Now def replacing cam going to upgrade oil pump. Oil pan coming off this weekend hopefully no surprises . Crazy how much power it still had with bad lifter. Good luck with yours

 

[MiKro'12-SRT8]

interesting, what year is yours? Are you taking the advice from an earlier post; “Replace your Lifters with Non-MDS Lifters! This is the weak link with the 6.4L”

 

[LI-SRT]

I had it on Cyl 7 few mo’s ago! I heard about it on the forums and always that wouldn’t be me cause i’m always drive in track and Sport mode’s which supposedly shuts down the Mds but.. Fml still had failure! At 45k miles she shit the bed!
Got New Lifters (17+ Non Mds hellcat lifters) new cam , heads , valves , Oil , filter etc , Eng and trans tune.
She’s a beast now added 50+ awdhp and feels and drive a ton better! Def aN issue w hemi’s and the Lifters! Did a Follow up ck up and Another oil change @ 1500 miles even after a double flush when they did the Job
Someone ment’d gettin a Upg’d oil pump , i asked the shop about it and they said NO! I do a lot of idleing (like rt now talking to you sitting in gym lot drinking my preworkout lol) they said the issue is Strickly the lifters! No need for a stronger oil pump.
Neil

 

[MiKro'12-SRT8]

So I drive in track all the time (handles so much better) but the “ECO” dash light still comes on when traveling highway. Doesn’t that indicate the MDS is still functionin? thx!

 

[Moparjim79]

Yes, that means you're in eco mode, and you would notice it from the absolutely annoying drone it makes as well.

 

[Moparjim79]

Mooner-- are you doing the work yourself?

 

[SEL777]

Well, I just joined the club @ 105K. Unbelievable, the money you pay to get this ride, and it needs an replacement engine at that milage. Always in Sport mode, never racing or driving it hard. Regular oil changes with the right stuff. For a daily, what ready to go long block would be best? I have no plans to put another stock motor in it, but will not be adding boost, just N/A. If I add some added performance fine, but can't really lose MPG. I've been on MME and Arrington, looks like everything needs a core. They said mine is more than the stuck lifter, and parts of motor came apart. I have no other info than that. Engine fails and leaves me and the family stranded on the exit ramp, without a code, warning, engine noise? I thought maybe a fuel pump, nope. Will any 6.4 L Hemi drop in? Or are the sedan and coupe motors different in any way that would prevent it from working in my Jeep? I can find something I could drop in less expensive than a new built motor, but would change the cam and lifters first. If you have input to a local shop in NW burbs of Chicago, that would be helpful. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Moparjim79]

I dont want to sound like too much of a jerk, but if there was any part of your mind that had fuel economy in mind when buying a jeep with this drivetrain, cmon man. You buy these for smiles per gallon. It sucks they are so expensive to own. Look at the brand new mopar crate engines, they are very affordable. Any kind of real performance upgrade is going to really turn you off when you start looking into the prices....

 

[SEL777]

I hear what you're saying, I'm just saying I will not drop down to Trackhawk MPG. I have no issue with my current MPG.