426 N/A Build! - Cherokee SRT8 Forum
WK2 SRT8 Engine Performance/Superchargers/Turbos/Nitrous Discuss engine performance enhancing modifications, superchargers & turbo applications specific to the WK2 SRT8 here.

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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426 N/A Build!

After falling victim to the MDS lifter failure TWICE it was time to pull the stock 392 longblock and go with a 426 longblock from Arrington Performance! Here's some pictures on the Carnage!

Details of new build
-Arrington 426 longblock with an ST3A cam
-Legmaker Cold Air Intake
-Jet Powerflow Throttlebody
-Jet Performance Xcelerator / Throttle Booster
-Kooks Longtube Headers w/ catless Midpipes
-Badlandz HPE Electronic Cutouts
-Corsa Catback
-Tuned by Diablotoona
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 11:40 AM
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I did my Badlanz cutouts like this using band clamps and some screws to pin the exhaust from turning.
After some experience If I decide to do this to my new Trackhawk I would buy the stainless steel ones for 10.00 more as the black
ones rusted pretty good after only 1 winter.
There's no way they would last 5 years without yearly repainting.
I sanded and repainted them with awlgrip boat paint.





Added some tailpipes





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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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@Hemi Cruiser Yeah when I did my Corsa Catback system I placed the BadLandz cutouts up towards the front behind the headers - you can see them in the last pic next to the stock block. I did go with the stainless and bought some turndowns from BadLandz.

Truth be told I mounted them and never wired them up haha Loved the sound of them open. It might be too much though once I get the Longtubes and midpipe on with no cats!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R_H1N0 View Post
@Hemi Cruiser Yeah when I did my Corsa Catback system I placed the BadLandz cutouts up towards the front behind the headers - you can see them in the last pic next to the stock block. I did go with the stainless and bought some turndowns from BadLandz.

Truth be told I mounted them and never wired them up haha Loved the sound of them open. It might be too much though once I get the Longtubes and midpipe on with no cats!
I had a Corsa exhaust and it was too loud for me on part throttle acceleration.
If you have the cutouts there you can probably run the wires up the frame into the engine compartment up to the + - boost terminals at the back of the fender and then down the rabbit hole to the 1" hole into the under glovebox area.

I extended the wires on mine with phone line cable to get to the back location.



There's a black plastic plug that just pops off.


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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-26-2019, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemi Cruiser View Post
I had a Corsa exhaust and it was too loud for me on part throttle acceleration.
If you have the cutouts there you can probably run the wires up the frame into the engine compartment up to the + - boost terminals at the back of the fender and then down the rabbit hole to the 1" hole into the under glovebox area.

I extended the wires on mine with phone line cable to get to the back location.



There's a black plastic plug that just pops off.



Kinda curious what you have a 200amp breaker for on 4 gauge wire. Thatís a lot of amps for a not large wire


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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 01:42 AM
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Kinda curious what you have a 200amp breaker for on 4 gauge wire. That’s a lot of amps for a not large wire


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At 12 volts

The car stereo store generally doesn't have anything thicker than 4 gauge.

It powers my 2400 watt RMS old school Rockford Punch stereo 12 x 200 maximum draw.

The subs make it feel like your hair is jumping

And no lights dimming.









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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemi Cruiser View Post
At 12 volts

The car stereo store generally doesn't have anything thicker than 4 gauge.

It powers my 2400 watt RMS old school Rockford Punch stereo 12 x 200 maximum draw.

The subs make it feel like your hair is jumping

And no lights dimming.










Off topic but just so you know you
Should be 2 gauge but more realistically 1/0. If it were to actually draw 200 amps you could potentially melt that wire. I use to work in an audio shop, I had seen some weird things come in. I do prefer the breakers over fuses though, good choice there


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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregmanz View Post
Off topic but just so you know you
Should be 2 gauge but more realistically 1/0. If it were to actually draw 200 amps you could potentially melt that wire. I use to work in an audio shop, I had seen some weird things come in. I do prefer the breakers over fuses though, good choice there


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I could change it out for a 150 or 120 or a 100 amp breaker.
What is your opinion.
The amp connectors on the Punch amps are a little less than 8 gauge which is what I used that you can see in the first pic.
The 3 amp power wires together are about the size of the 4 gauge cable coming into the amp bay cap, or less.
I ran some 8 gauge from the 1000.1 amp as speaker wire to the subs.
They're Cadence 65 lb each subs rated 1000 rms

Have to put the empty 30 lb box in and then put them in.
With their location in the back still easy to open it to get to the amp bay.

Hair raising





I also have in/out 12v pc fans for cooling.
Amazon has auto breakers for 12.00 prime.
I've never had a short for it to trip in 2 years of use.
As to load wire doesn't even get hot.
I use it to turn off the power while working on it.
The 500a2 and 600a4 have enough slack on the wiring to pull them up enough to tune the amps or change them out.
If it shorts which is unlikely as the cable doesn't rub against any metal I want it to trip and not catch fire.
I guess the lowest breaker that won't melt the wire would be best.
Right now I'm waiting for a pac harness for the HK system instead of the Lc7i in the pic so it's not even on.
I had this system in my non HK SRT where the Lc7i worked well and am re installing it in my Trackhawk.

Besides the subs I have Hertz 6x9 and 6.5 HCX door speakers
for the amps to power.




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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 10:32 AM
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I found this chart for automotive stereo wiring.
My cable is about 8-9 feet.
4 gauge is fine for 150-200 amps but 2 gauge is recommended for 200-300.
I think I'll lower the breaker to 175 amps.


Last edited by Hemi Cruiser; 04-28-2019 at 10:47 AM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemi Cruiser View Post
I found this chart for automotive stereo wiring.

My cable is about 8-9 feet.

4 gauge is fine for 150-200 amps but 2 gauge is recommended for 200-300.

I think I'll lower the breaker to 175 amps.





I pictured closer to a 12-13 foot run, but thatís not bad. Would be a good idea


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