New tires- Toyo Proxes 3 - Page 5 - Cherokee SRT8 Forum
WK2 SRT8 Wheels & Tires This section is to discuss wheel and tire options for the WK2 SRT8.

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post #41 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-05-2018, 02:21 PM
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guys im about to order my set of Prox ST III. should the load range be XL?



Part Number: 247300

Do it you won’t be disappointed.. yes it’s an XL tire. It should be


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post #42 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 09:48 AM
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So got mine done yesterday. What a nightmare of a weekend tho. The previous owner of my truck had Roadians on and the front passenger caught a bubble....then the rear driver caught a flat...the best part was trying to take of the rear driver to put the spare on. The shit was fused on like you could not believe. After an hour of using 2 hammers, a bat and a sledge...oh and my foot....it finally came off.


Ok onto getting the tires. I got over to Mavis because now I needed new tires and found out I needed a new sensor in my rear tire. Must have broken off when I went to town trying to get the wheel off. I also did an alignment since I was there....

All in all and $1200 later I am sitting on 4 fresh soles. Off the bat I notice the ride handles bumps better than my beat up Roadians. Time will tell how well these handle but im already a fan.

Sidenote - have any of you dealt with rusted hubs and the inside of your wheels (where it meets the hub) also being rusted...or brownish? If so how do you maintain?

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Last edited by ibpnyc; 08-07-2018 at 10:14 AM. Reason: typo
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post #43 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 10:51 AM
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...Sidenote - have any of you dealt with rusted hubs and the inside of your wheels (where it meets the hub) also being rusted...or brownish? If so how do you maintain?
oh yeah...can't be prevented just cleaned and minimized...its the main reason I won't let a shop rotate my tires, just don't trust them to clean both surfaces properly...the rotor/drum surface is actual rust and the wheel is that rust caked with the corrosion on the alloy wheel back face...

here's my ocd method...drill wire wheel brush or hand brush the rotor/drum surface to shiny...I prefer a smaller steel end wire brush on the drill so I can get around the lugs without hammering the lower lug threads...I use a brass cup wire brush on wheel surface but don't push as hard on the wheel face since it is alloy and you could monk with the trueness of the face if you get too aggressive especially if using a high end stainless braided style wire brush...brass keeps you safest...when both surfaces are clean I blot a small rag with CorrosionX (a really good rust/corrosion inhibitor used inside plane wings) and wipe both surfaces to minimize rust/corrosion buildup for next time...extra light smear is all, you don't want a thick layer between your mating surfaces...
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post #44 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 11:12 AM
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oh yeah...can't be prevented just cleaned and minimized...its the main reason I won't let a shop rotate my tires, just don't trust them to clean both surfaces properly...the rotor/drum surface is actual rust and the wheel is that rust caked with the corrosion on the alloy wheel back face...

here's my ocd method...drill wire wheel brush or hand brush the rotor/drum surface to shiny...I prefer a smaller steel end wire brush on the drill so I can get around the lugs without hammering the lower lug threads...I use a brass cup wire brush on wheel surface but don't push as hard on the wheel face since it is alloy and you could monk with the trueness of the face if you get too aggressive especially if using a high end stainless braided style wire brush...brass keeps you safest...when both surfaces are clean I blot a small rag with CorrosionX (a really good rust/corrosion inhibitor used inside plane wings) and wipe both surfaces to minimize rust/corrosion buildup for next time...extra light smear is all, you don't want a thick layer between your mating surfaces...
that explanation was legit. thanks. You should do a video on your next scheduled rotation. The inside of my wheel (where is meets the hub) had that rust+corrosion build up you were describing. Looks like small chunks of the wheel is gone due to it. smh
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post #45 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-11-2018, 04:57 PM
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Just wanted to add I went through a nice downpour in the city yesterday and they performed very well. Other folks were moving out of the left lane from the accumulating water but I was just cruising through... . .felt solid. So far I like these tires.


How would they handle going up the mountain in snow? I went up on stock pirelli tires and felt good. I need a new set and only see snow about once a year.


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post #46 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 11:56 AM
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Hasn't snowed yet in the city so can't provide first hand experience in the white stuff yet.
I do like to take the family on weekend trips to the Pocono mountains over the winter in Pennsylvania so will report back when that happens. That's just driving on mountain roads but will be as close as I get to off roading up a mountain. . .lol. Must be a lot of fun though!
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post #47 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 12:05 PM
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Hasn't snowed yet in the city so can't provide first hand experience in the white stuff yet.

I do like to take the family on weekend trips to the Pocono mountains over the winter in Pennsylvania so will report back when that happens. That's just driving on mountain roads but will be as close as I get to off roading up a mountain. . .lol. Must be a lot of fun though!


You will be using toyo St III tires going on this mountain trip?


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post #48 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 08:50 PM
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Yes. The jeep is the main family vehicle. Will be mostly paved roads though. Nothing hard core.
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post #49 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 11:18 PM
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Yes. The jeep is the main family vehicle. Will be mostly paved roads though. Nothing hard core.


Yea my mountain is paved as well all the way to the city with a lake called big bear lake so I should be fine, will be buying these in a week.


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post #50 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-22-2018, 03:18 PM
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Do these size tires come with the big or small sidewall lettering? I've seen pictures with both.


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