Keoni, do you still daily drive the jeep. Or is it a weekend warrior. Also if you are just cruising around what kind of mpg do you get? BTW, your jeep is bad ass, I remember when you were running 11's because of traction and other issues, but to see it now it is very impressive. Very impressive
I'll probably eventually upgrade the entire trans but I'm not planning that for a while if I can help it. Doesn't the bb valve body have blue tops in it? I'm probably going to pass on the valve body for now as I'd rather spend that money once if I end up needing the entire trans done. How harsh is the downshift when just easing along and coming to a stop with blue tops installed? Will it tick off a wife?
Thanks for the replys.
Oh and tug: I'm running nitto 420s. What tires are you running and how does it hook in the summer from a dig on the street?
Lets say that the Blue tops will not pass the wife test for sure... The Jeep will downshift so harsh and will feel like someone but you from behind on the 2nd to 1st gear shift... Not a pleasant feeling as to why ai got rid of them.... I would get the Stage 2 Valvebody from Bill and it drives much better IMO...
__________________ Knuckles Mods: Bwoody CAI/FRI Lil boy Cam/ SW Headers/CORSA exhaust/SLP UD Pulley/Black Ops Autoworks Ported Intake Manny/90MM TB/ Johan aka Diablotoona Custom Tune
Can it be normal to throw a p700 when you spin really bad in first, and then short shift into second staying in it. Mine has done it a couple of times when I was experimenting. It only does it when I experience a significant loss of traction and the tranny gets "out of sync" with the shift points. The trans is holding the gears fine as long as you don't nail it from too slow of a speed.
Something as simple as getting better tires will help with your traction. A set of 275/315 would work much better IMO. The 420's are nice, but adding the wider set up will give you a much bigger footprint.
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Craig 08 GCSRT8-- Eibach's, BT Catch Can, Mopar Cat Back and CAI, Shorty Antenna, 180tstat, other appearance goodies by BT and carbon fiber accents... massaged by JOHAN with a custom wrapped Alcantara steering wheel
12.57 @ 106
SRTBEAST
Keoni, do you still daily drive the jeep. Or is it a weekend warrior. Also if you are just cruising around what kind of mpg do you get? BTW, your jeep is bad ass, I remember when you were running 11's because of traction and other issues, but to see it now it is very impressive. Very impressive
I dont daily drive it, you absolutely could, i just chose not to so i can keep it in mint condition. In the winter it sits and in the spring, summer, fall I drive it alot. The thing drinks gas like crazy....it probably gets 200 miles per tank. It really drives like an NA jeep till you start laying into it and the turbo starts to spool, then its hold on time.
Oh yeah man, I had major traction issues with the Vortech blower and the 393 motor. Tires and a rear put that to rest pretty easily! Its pretty much a dead hook every launch. Stage6 has my 2step dialed in perfectly.
I did have issues at ATCO this year and broke some teeth off the rear gears but that was due to wet tires, a hard launch, and pedaling the throttle.
Your best bet is to add a mild twin turbo build on top of your stroker, that should solve the traction issues.
LOL but in all seriousness, your best bet is to use better tires or upgrade your rearend or other suspension components. Congrats on the new build and enjoy the power. I miss my stroker build. Best daily driver build ever!
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................||John S.||................
Current Beast: 2013 GT500 -Black on Black with SVTPP
More specs on the motor, or a build thread please.
Not many guys on here build their own motors. It would be enlightening for us.
I have a small speedshop and I mostly work on gm. This was my first mopar stroker build. I'm about ready to change the break in oil and get it on the dyno for the final dial in and I'll post up a dyno results thread. I sourced most of my parts from RDP Motorsports in Ohio. "Dyno Steve" is helping me with the tuning as I don't do CMR at my shop (not enough dodge folks here for me to invest in the software just yet).
I had a little boy cam only setup before and had a bad lifter which caused the cam to seize and break the dowel off the front. It then bent 6 valve .... The rotating assembly was reuseable but I chose to go ahead and do a fully forged stroker kit. I used manley pistons, rods, and crank. I had a friend at a machine shop hand port the heads. We hand ported the throttle body and Intake manifold. I put ARP head studs and main studs in it with cometic gaskets. I decided to leave the factory exhaust manifolds on. I already had an SLP UD pulley which was helpful as it is cut for a keyway and the factory balancer is not. Went with a new mopar oil pump and lifters. Comp cams pushrods and springs. Cam is very small. 224/230 with a 114 lsa and about .570 lift. Compression is about 10.3 to 1. I wanted stock like compression for good n/a power and still be able to add some mild boost later. If I decide to build the trans, rear end, suspension, and upgrade the fuel system, I should have an easy 10 second ride that drives veryyyy stock like. Transmission and stall converter are still completely stock. My wife and I share the jeep and a supercharged 2004 Cadillac CTS-v for daily driving duties currently.... Later, I'll probably keep the jeep as my new drag car. (I had a n/a 404 iron block ls 1999 Transam that ran 10.7s on motor and was around 3800lbs race weight.... sold it last year)
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2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8
.... The rotating assembly was reuseable but I chose to go ahead and do a fully forged stroker kit. I used manley pistons, rods, and crank. I had a friend at a machine shop hand port the heads. We hand ported the throttle body and Intake manifold. I put ARP head studs and main studs in it with cometic gaskets. I decided to leave the factory exhaust manifolds on. I already had an SLP UD pulley which was helpful as it is cut for a keyway and the factory balancer is not. Went with a new mopar oil pump and lifters. Comp cams pushrods and springs. Cam is very small. 224/230 with a 114 lsa and about .570 lift. Compression is about 10.3 to 1. I wanted stock like compression for good n/a power and still be able to add some mild boost later. If I decide to build the trans, rear end, suspension, and upgrade the fuel system, I should have an easy 10 second ride that drives veryyyy stock like. Transmission and stall converter are still completely stock. My wife and I share the jeep and a supercharged 2004 Cadillac CTS-v for daily driving duties currently.... Later, I'll probably keep the jeep as my new drag car. (I had a n/a 404 iron block ls 1999 Transam that ran 10.7s on motor and was around 3800lbs race weight.... sold it last year)
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