As to not scare anyone... they don't run without oil... they will run without oil pressure though. The oil you drain is just the oil in the pan, it is still on all of the bearings, though it is just a thin film.
I 100% agree though, pre-fill the filter. Not full on the Jeeps because you have to angle them to get them on the truck.
Yeah it just takes a few seconds to fill the main gallery and replace the oil that slips out of the mains on initial fire-up. Some of the big MTUs and Cats I work on have prelube that pressurizes everything before ignition on crank. And the oil pressure is well over 100psi on idle, love my job haha
__________________
'09 Jeep GC SRT8 Inferno Red,6k hid fogs and high beams with 6 high mod,6k LED Interior,Billet Flat Black Shorty Antenna, Black Rims, Red BT Catch Can, Resonator Delete with Borlas, Paddle Shifters(first in the world)
'03 Yukon SLT, 4l60e 650 hp Build Custom Race Transmission. Limo Overstock tint on Rears, 15 % Tint on Front. 2 Kicker 10" CVRs @ 440. Straight Piped, No Cats, Halo Projectors, 10k HID Low Beam, 6k High Beam with 4 High Mod
'71 VW DuneBuggy, summer project
The Following User Says Thank You to gitrdun For This Useful Post:
As to not scare anyone... they don't run without oil... they will run without oil pressure though. The oil you drain is just the oil in the pan, it is still on all of the bearings, though it is just a thin film.
I 100% agree though, pre-fill the filter. Not full on the Jeeps because you have to angle them to get them on the truck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitrdun
Yeah it just takes a few seconds to fill the main gallery and replace the oil that slips out of the mains on initial fire-up. Some of the big MTUs and Cats I work on have prelube that pressurizes everything before ignition on crank. And the oil pressure is well over 100psi on idle, love my job haha
Good info, thanks again guys
As far as raising the truck, is it ok just to drive the front tires up onto ramps? Will it drain completely if its angled back like that? Or should I jack up the rear end and support with jack stands as well.
And regarding a filter wrench in case I need it to get the old one off, is there a specific tool for the OEM Mopar filters?
__________________ John
2010 Brilliant Black SRT8 Mopar intake | Solo exhaust | Trinity | Jersey Boy tuned | BT catch can | BT underhood kit | BWoody swaybar links | Summer: Bridgestone Dueller HP Sport RF 275/315 on OEM wheels | Winter: Pirelli Scorpion Ice & Snow RF 275 on satin black reps | R1 Premium Slotted/Cross Drilled rotors | Stoptech pads | DC Customs headlights | TS LED taillights | TS painted moldings |
Well if you can get away with not raising it at all it's the best way,but if you drive onto ramps, make sure the park brake is FULLY applied so it will not move, and be careful when shaking the jeep around( pulling on the filter wrench etc ) so it won't slip off the jacks. And as for a filter wrench, your usual automotive store will have them ,and they sort of collapse and grab onto the filter when pulling it off. Bring the filter to ensure proper fit and if you can snatch up a three pack of different sizes, buy it. Also i don't know if someone already said to put a thin film of of oil on the o-ring to ensure smooth removal next time you change it. Ask the parts guy for the tightening procedure, filters sometime differentiate from eachother on how tight to go
Well if you can get away with not raising it at all it's the best way,but if you drive onto ramps, make sure the park brake is FULLY applied so it will not move, and be careful when shaking the jeep around( pulling on the filter wrench etc ) so it won't slip off the jacks. And as for a filter wrench, your usual automotive store will have them ,and they sort of collapse and grab onto the filter when pulling it off. Bring the filter to ensure proper fit and if you can snatch up a three pack of different sizes, buy it. Also i don't know if someone already said to put a thin film of of oil on the o-ring to ensure smooth removal next time you change it. Ask the parts guy for the tightening procedure, filters sometime differentiate from eachother on how tight to go
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisWK
Get some ramps make it a easy job.
I do have a set of race ramps which I picked up over the summer in anticipation of this. They are awesome, very sturdy and easy to use, even by yourself. I also have rear tire cradles that can be used in place of jack stands in the rear.
But my question is does the truck need to be level for the oil to drain properly? Meaning do I need to use the ramps in the front and the tire cradles in the rear? Or can I just drive the front up on the ramps and throw some tire chocks in the rear. Its much easier not to have to jack up the rear but again just not sure if that would affect draining the oil.
It's just an oil change man, don't read too much into it. You can drive the jeep onto a set of ramps or jack it up, either way you'll be fine. You're never going to fully drain the motor oil. Let it drain for a few minutes and then put the plug back in. There's no special skills involved when doing an oil change. Pre-filling the oil filter won't make a lick of difference if you ask me. It's just a preference of some guys.
edit: 1 thing I will say tho, is once you're all said and done and when you're ready to fire it up for the first time after filling it with oil is to start it up for a split second and the shut it off, then start it again for a split second and shut it off just so oil pressure builds up and you're not running the top end of the motor dry for a few seconds.
__________________
Dan
2010 YEEP
Last edited by DrSheldonCooper; 12-19-2012 at 08:46 PM.
I know with the Race Damps and rear Kick-ups that the Jeep will not sit level. So here is what you do. I assume your driveway slopes downhill, so drive up the ramps with the front of the Jeep facing downhill. This way it will sit more level.
Haha, just kidding. Like DrSheldon said, don't read to much into it. just an oil change. The 6.1 Hemi drains slow, it's recommended to let it drain for like 20 minutes, but that probably never happens.
__________________ Zac
2012 WK2 SRT8 Mineral Gray | BT Catch Can | BT Underhood Goodies | Painted Engine Bay | Bwoody CAI | Custom Washer Setup | Shaved Jeep/Color Matched Liftgate Brow| Chrome Delete | Debadge-ReBadged | 5% Tint All Around | 78% Windshield Tint | Passport 9500ix | TLS Rear Fogs | 5k HID Fogs | 6k LED Running Lights | 8k Bi-Xenon | 6K LED Plate Lights | 6k Interior LED Swap | Borla ATAK | WK1 Borla Reso Swap | Matching eBrake Pedal | Trinity | Modified DS 93 Tune
SOLD 2007 Silver Jeep SRT8
Always a good idea to fill your new dry filter with oil before installing if you can , the bearings run without oil for a split second so I always fill up the filters on engines that I service. Mind you the engine I work with are worth k800+ so a little more riding on my shoulders hahaha
I agree and do the same, at least 1/2 quart goes in the filter.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.