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  #21  
Old 12-19-2012, 04:04 PM
Jack_Toepfer Jack_Toepfer is offline
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As to not scare anyone... they don't run without oil... they will run without oil pressure though. The oil you drain is just the oil in the pan, it is still on all of the bearings, though it is just a thin film.

I 100% agree though, pre-fill the filter. Not full on the Jeeps because you have to angle them to get them on the truck.
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  #22  
Old 12-19-2012, 04:35 PM
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Yeah it just takes a few seconds to fill the main gallery and replace the oil that slips out of the mains on initial fire-up. Some of the big MTUs and Cats I work on have prelube that pressurizes everything before ignition on crank. And the oil pressure is well over 100psi on idle, love my job haha
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  #23  
Old 12-19-2012, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack_Toepfer View Post
As to not scare anyone... they don't run without oil... they will run without oil pressure though. The oil you drain is just the oil in the pan, it is still on all of the bearings, though it is just a thin film.

I 100% agree though, pre-fill the filter. Not full on the Jeeps because you have to angle them to get them on the truck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gitrdun View Post
Yeah it just takes a few seconds to fill the main gallery and replace the oil that slips out of the mains on initial fire-up. Some of the big MTUs and Cats I work on have prelube that pressurizes everything before ignition on crank. And the oil pressure is well over 100psi on idle, love my job haha
Good info, thanks again guys

As far as raising the truck, is it ok just to drive the front tires up onto ramps? Will it drain completely if its angled back like that? Or should I jack up the rear end and support with jack stands as well.

And regarding a filter wrench in case I need it to get the old one off, is there a specific tool for the OEM Mopar filters?
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  #24  
Old 12-19-2012, 04:54 PM
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Well if you can get away with not raising it at all it's the best way,but if you drive onto ramps, make sure the park brake is FULLY applied so it will not move, and be careful when shaking the jeep around( pulling on the filter wrench etc ) so it won't slip off the jacks. And as for a filter wrench, your usual automotive store will have them ,and they sort of collapse and grab onto the filter when pulling it off. Bring the filter to ensure proper fit and if you can snatch up a three pack of different sizes, buy it. Also i don't know if someone already said to put a thin film of of oil on the o-ring to ensure smooth removal next time you change it. Ask the parts guy for the tightening procedure, filters sometime differentiate from eachother on how tight to go
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  #25  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:22 PM
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Get some ramps make it a easy job.
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  #26  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gitrdun View Post
Well if you can get away with not raising it at all it's the best way,but if you drive onto ramps, make sure the park brake is FULLY applied so it will not move, and be careful when shaking the jeep around( pulling on the filter wrench etc ) so it won't slip off the jacks. And as for a filter wrench, your usual automotive store will have them ,and they sort of collapse and grab onto the filter when pulling it off. Bring the filter to ensure proper fit and if you can snatch up a three pack of different sizes, buy it. Also i don't know if someone already said to put a thin film of of oil on the o-ring to ensure smooth removal next time you change it. Ask the parts guy for the tightening procedure, filters sometime differentiate from eachother on how tight to go
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Originally Posted by ChrisWK View Post
Get some ramps make it a easy job.
I do have a set of race ramps which I picked up over the summer in anticipation of this. They are awesome, very sturdy and easy to use, even by yourself. I also have rear tire cradles that can be used in place of jack stands in the rear.

But my question is does the truck need to be level for the oil to drain properly? Meaning do I need to use the ramps in the front and the tire cradles in the rear? Or can I just drive the front up on the ramps and throw some tire chocks in the rear. Its much easier not to have to jack up the rear but again just not sure if that would affect draining the oil.
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  #27  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:42 PM
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It's just an oil change man, don't read too much into it. You can drive the jeep onto a set of ramps or jack it up, either way you'll be fine. You're never going to fully drain the motor oil. Let it drain for a few minutes and then put the plug back in. There's no special skills involved when doing an oil change. Pre-filling the oil filter won't make a lick of difference if you ask me. It's just a preference of some guys.

edit: 1 thing I will say tho, is once you're all said and done and when you're ready to fire it up for the first time after filling it with oil is to start it up for a split second and the shut it off, then start it again for a split second and shut it off just so oil pressure builds up and you're not running the top end of the motor dry for a few seconds.
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  #28  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:48 PM
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I know with the Race Damps and rear Kick-ups that the Jeep will not sit level. So here is what you do. I assume your driveway slopes downhill, so drive up the ramps with the front of the Jeep facing downhill. This way it will sit more level.

Haha, just kidding. Like DrSheldon said, don't read to much into it. just an oil change. The 6.1 Hemi drains slow, it's recommended to let it drain for like 20 minutes, but that probably never happens.
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  #29  
Old 12-20-2012, 02:01 PM
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I just let it drain for about 30 minutes it will all drain out, do want to get it the oil hot it will flow easier too.
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  #30  
Old 12-20-2012, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gitrdun View Post
Always a good idea to fill your new dry filter with oil before installing if you can , the bearings run without oil for a split second so I always fill up the filters on engines that I service. Mind you the engine I work with are worth k800+ so a little more riding on my shoulders hahaha
I agree and do the same, at least 1/2 quart goes in the filter.
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