Changing your own oil

**jvs0302** · #1 12-17-2012, 06:37 PM

I am embarrassed to admit that I have never changed my own oil in any of my vehicles before

I have had my new to me Jeep since April and have been using the dealer so that they have oil change records in their system for my warranty. But I am going to start doing it myself and take my chances.

It seems easy enough, but are there any tricks or tips I need to know about that are unique to our 6.1Ls?

Jfra · #2 12-17-2012, 06:46 PM

I let a place close to the house change mine. They will do it for $80 which after you spend anywhere from $50-$70 on Mobil 1, then also buy a filter, it is worth the $80 IMO.

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9684david · #3 12-17-2012, 06:50 PM

It is a very easy job. Make sure your rig is up on jack stands or on ramps before crawling under it. Have a friend or someone who has done plenty oil changes there just to be sure you are crossing your T's and dotting your I's. Good luck

**J&D's SRT's** · #4 12-17-2012, 06:57 PM

I buy my own oil & filter when its on sale, than take it to the dealer to change. They only charge me $7, its not worth getting my hands dirty for that small of an amount that they charge. Plus they still have a record of it. Make sure the old filter gasket comes off with the old filter they stick sometimes. I always lube the new gasket with new oil just for the heck of it. Whenever I do my own on other cars.

Jim

**Mongoose9400** · #5 12-17-2012, 06:59 PM

I've never changed my own oil either! I like the convenience at times. I'm funny about stuff like that. I'll swap out all my suspension components, but won't do my spark plugs...go figure. Sometimes I just need the convenience and saving a few bucks

Give this a look:
http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_oil_change.htm

**Mongoose9400** · #6 12-17-2012, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J&D's SRT's

I buy my own oil & filter when its on sale, than take it to the dealer to change. They only charge me $7, its not worth getting my hands dirty for that small of an amount that they charge. Plus they still have a record of it. Make sure the old filter gasket comes off with the old filter they stick sometimes. I always lube the new gasket with new oil just for the heck of it. Whenever I do my own on other cars.

Jim

Man my last oil change at the dealer they only charged me like $4/qt for the Pennzoil 0W-40 from the 5 gallon barrel. The actual oil and filter was cheap, maybe $40-45 bucks. BUT, they charged me half hour shop time at like $50-60 lol. I guess that is where they made their money that time.

2012srt · #7 12-17-2012, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J&D's SRT's

I buy my own oil & filter when its on sale, than take it to the dealer to change. They only charge me $7, its not worth getting my hands dirty for that small of an amount that they charge. Plus they still have a record of it. Make sure the old filter gasket comes off with the old filter they stick sometimes. I always lube the new gasket with new oil just for the heck of it. Whenever I do my own on other cars.

Jim

DITTO!!!! If you trust the lube guy its worth it

Jack_Toepfer · #8 12-17-2012, 07:15 PM

Super easy to do.

Jack up the truck and support it with jack stands. If you've never done this, be careful.
Locate the oil drain plug. Be sure it is for the engine oil.
Get your catch pan under the truck and loosen the plug with the appropriately sized 6pt socket. Do not remove the plug with the socket. Once it is loose enough to do it by hand, take it out by hand and don't drop in in the pan. Set it aside to inspect and clean off before reinstallation.
While that is draining, identify the oil filter. Chances are the person who changed the oil before you tightened the crap out of it. You may need a filter wrench to get it off, you may be able to get it off by hand. Regardless, don't loosen it more than a turn before you put a pan under the drain lip located directly under the filter. Once the pan is there you can unscrew the filter all the way. Empty the filter into the pan and make sure the oring is still on the filter. if it isn't, just pull it off of the oil filter housing. Old filter and oring, discard. Rarely does the oring stick to the truck, haven't had that happen in many years.
While that is dripping I like to put the oil plug back in. Inspecting the plug for metal debris or torn washers before installing. Clean the area around the plug with a rag and install. Don't over tighten just make sure it isn't going to leak.
Once the oil filter area is done dripping wipe it all down with a rag. If you don't wipe it now you'll never get to it after the filter is on and it will drip in the garage or driveway.
Take the new filter and fill it half way with fresh clean oil. Take some on your finger and wipe the oring on that filter to lubricate it.
Screw it into the same place the last one just came from. You'll have to feel around with the filter to find the threads but be very gentle. You do not have to force the filter on and you don't want to cross thread this at all. You'll get a dozen turns out of it before it is tight. If it is tight right away, it's on crooked.
Once the filter is hand tight its done.
Open the hood.
Open the oil filler cap.
Take your time after 6qts because she will start to fill up on you. Do not overfill it. It's very easy to add more and very hard to take some out. Once you think it is full, using the dipstick to measure, put the dipstick back, put the oil cap back on and start the truck for a minute. Shut it down for a minute. This fills the oil filter with oil and leaving it off for a minute gets it out of the heads and into the pan. If it needs another 1/2 qt add it now.
Check it again in a day to make sure everything is good.

Just be careful under the truck man, that's one thing you're going to regret is it falling on you.

Next Phase · #9 12-17-2012, 07:38 PM

I don't trust anyone enough to work on my vehicles...

**jvs0302** · #10 12-17-2012, 07:56 PM

Yea I am going back and forth on whether to just take it in or not. I actually purchased one of their oil service contracts a few months ago, I think I may have one change left. However what I didn't like was the fact they put in 5W40 as opposed to the 0W40, even though I have read that both are acceptable.

But with a 2 year old and 8 month old the wife isn't really too keen on me spending too much time in the garage unless its at night when everyone's asleep lol!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mongoose9400

I've never changed my own oil either! I like the convenience at times. I'm funny about stuff like that. I'll swap out all my suspension components, but won't do my spark plugs...go figure. Sometimes I just need the convenience and saving a few bucks

Give this a look:
http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_oil_change.htm

great link, thank you

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack_Toepfer

Super easy to do.

Jack up the truck and support it with jack stands. If you've never done this, be careful.
Locate the oil drain plug. Be sure it is for the engine oil.
Get your catch pan under the truck and loosen the plug with the appropriately sized 6pt socket. Do not remove the plug with the socket. Once it is loose enough to do it by hand, take it out by hand and don't drop in in the pan. Set it aside to inspect and clean off before reinstallation.
While that is draining, identify the oil filter. Chances are the person who changed the oil before you tightened the crap out of it. You may need a filter wrench to get it off, you may be able to get it off by hand. Regardless, don't loosen it more than a turn before you put a pan under the drain lip located directly under the filter. Once the pan is there you can unscrew the filter all the way. Empty the filter into the pan and make sure the oring is still on the filter. if it isn't, just pull it off of the oil filter housing. Old filter and oring, discard. Rarely does the oring stick to the truck, haven't had that happen in many years.
While that is dripping I like to put the oil plug back in. Inspecting the plug for metal debris or torn washers before installing. Clean the area around the plug with a rag and install. Don't over tighten just make sure it isn't going to leak.
Once the oil filter area is done dripping wipe it all down with a rag. If you don't wipe it now you'll never get to it after the filter is on and it will drip in the garage or driveway.
Take the new filter and fill it half way with fresh clean oil. Take some on your finger and wipe the oring on that filter to lubricate it.
Screw it into the same place the last one just came from. You'll have to feel around with the filter to find the threads but be very gentle. You do not have to force the filter on and you don't want to cross thread this at all. You'll get a dozen turns out of it before it is tight. If it is tight right away, it's on crooked.
Once the filter is hand tight its done.
Open the hood.
Open the oil filler cap.
Take your time after 6qts because she will start to fill up on you. Do not overfill it. It's very easy to add more and very hard to take some out. Once you think it is full, using the dipstick to measure, put the dipstick back, put the oil cap back on and start the truck for a minute. Shut it down for a minute. This fills the oil filter with oil and leaving it off for a minute gets it out of the heads and into the pan. If it needs another 1/2 qt add it now.
Check it again in a day to make sure everything is good.

Just be careful under the truck man, that's one thing you're going to regret is it falling on you.

Excellent writeup man! I was hoping for a step by step guide like this. I may just give it a shot once to see how it goes and how long it actually takes.

And I definitely hear you on making sure the truck is up on stands safely. I have heard too many bad stories. I actually have a set of race ramps that I can use. Can I just lift the front or does the rear need to be up in the air as well so that the oil drains all the way?