Please use safety, wear gloves, wear safety glasses, Use at your own risk, I'm not liable.
I cant show you everything because I'd have to get another alignment. Anyone in the San Antonio area that needs help is more than welcome to pay me a visit. I'll install your springs for you and snap a few more pics.
Tools Needed:Torque Wrench
22MM Socket
22MM Wrench
24MM Socket
24MM Wrench
18MM Socket
18MM Wrench
8MM Socket
3/8" and 1/2" Ratchets
Brake Parts Cleaner
Jack
Jack Stands
Optional (makes life easier):Interior Panel Clip Removal Tool
Impact Wrench and Air Compressor
WD40 or Spray oil of your choice
2nd Jack
2nd Set of Jack Stands
Two Large Zip Ties
1. Start off my jacking up the rear of the Jeep as high as possible. It helps if you use a jack on each side. Support the Jeep's body on your jack stands, do not support the jeep from the suspension as this will cause unwanted tension. Remove the wheels. Lug nuts are 22MM.
2. Driver side: Remove the caliper using the 18MM Socket and Ratchet and secure it out of the way WITHOUT stretching the brake line. (Optional: use the 2nd set of jack stands and a zip tie to secure the caliper) Support the bottom A Arm with the jack. Just enough to take some tension off, but no where near enough to lift the vehicle.
3. Remove the toe-link (#1) nut and bolt using the 18MM Socket and Wrench. (Optional: Impact)
4. Remove the trailing arm (#2) nut and bolt using the 18MM Socket and Wrench. (Optional: Impact)
5. Remove the clips holding the lines to the toe-link. (Optional: Panel removal tool) Be careful to not damage the lines during the entire process.
6. Place the jack under the A Arm to remove tension from the sock, remove the lower shock mount bolt using the 22MM socket BOLT and 24MM wrench NUT. (Optional: Impact, no pic, the shock is that big yellow thing....)
7. Again: Using the Jack to remove tension from the bolt, remove the lower sway bar end-link nut; 18MM Wrench and 8MM Socket to keep it from spinning. It may help to loosen the upper nut but it does not have to be removed. At this point you can slowly lower the Jack and remove the tension from the suspension. To remove the lower end link from the mount swing the rotor towards the front of the vehicle. Now move it up and out of the way.
8. Make note of how the spring sits in the A Arm. You will install the Eibach spring in the same orientation. Remove the spring by pressing down on the A Arm. Install the Eibach spring in the same way. (Optional: Spray a little WD40 on the upper rubber mount and it will make sliding the spring in easier)
9. Raise A Arm back up and make sure the spring is in the perch in the correct orientation. Support with jack.
10. Hand tight!!!! Install the end-link and nut, lower shock mount nut and bolt, trailing arm nut and bolt, and finally the toe-link nut and bolt. Now using the jack put some tension on the A Arm and torque all the nuts and bolts to factory specs.
11. Reinstall the caliper and torque to factory specs. Clean the rotor with the brake parts cleaner. Install the wheel and lug nuts.
Repeat for the passenger side. Just make note that there is a sensor that was not on the drivers side. It does not interfere with the install but again be careful.
12. Lower the Jeep and torque the wheels to factory specs. Don't be surprised if it still appears high. Put a few miles on it and then have the rear alignment done. All said and done I received 7/8" drop after driving it around. I couldn't be happier as it retains the rake and stock drivability. The only negative is I have some brand new front Eibach springs that I paid for and wont use.
Linear Mode
