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  #41  
Old 08-08-2012, 07:20 PM
rivetpro rivetpro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UpNort392 View Post
It's great to read this thread after having driven with the ATAK for about 1000 miles. I totally agree that all will be happy with the S or ATAK... They both are fantastic. Please be advised that there is a definite difference in sound at the shiftpoints once the computer adjusts to the new system. The shifts become extremely crisp with no "burping" noticeable. The entire system also becomes louder (in a good way). I don't have the same concerns as many have posted about the MDS going in and out. Inside the vehicle it is barely noticeable IMO.
I agree... No burping since the install. But I am noticing other negative differences at t the shift points. When I first installed and everything sounded fine. Now it sounds like it almost can't decide which gear it wants to go in. it seems like it opts for the higher gear. Maybe it's the computer adjusting. I probably put 300 miles so far on this exaust. Did you notice differences like this and how long did it take for the ecu to completely adjust.


P.s..... Where did you get the valve covers and throttle body? They look great.
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  #42  
Old 08-08-2012, 07:23 PM
rivetpro rivetpro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by droptop63 View Post
Firetruck - After all the research that I did on this subject, the BWoody is worth the plunge to me. But, I understand, from the guys here, that the ECU can take up to a couple of thousand miles to completely learn the new driving patterns.
I would put this in if you choose bwoody.... http://www.aemintakes.com/air_bypass_valve.htm. I don't know how it works but it's worth a try.
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  #43  
Old 08-08-2012, 07:56 PM
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Rivetpro

I've had my bwoody go through 7 straight hours of storms and down pours (about 400 miles of driving) without issue. The filter actually stays pretty dry in its location. A dry charger is highly recommended. Yes, hydrolock is a concern, but I don't think you need to worry unless you start to drive through deep standing water. The filter bottom sits 15" off the ground, roughly the middle of the wheel. Then the filter would have to be submerged to suck up water. IMO just be careful of standing water puddles, and drive slow in them if needed. Under 5mph which is the recommended speed.

That bypass valve could work, but I don't see a 4" offering. Use that in place of the silicone adapter that goes from the bwoody to the intake. Else, cut a section of the bwoody about and splice it together with that bypass.
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2012 WK2 SRT8 Mineral Gray | BT Catch Can | BT Underhood Goodies | Painted Engine Bay | Bwoody CAI | Custom Washer Setup | Shaved Jeep/Color Matched Liftgate Brow| Chrome Delete | Debadge-ReBadged | 5% Tint All Around | 78% Windshield Tint | Passport 9500ix | TLS Rear Fogs | 5k HID Fogs | 6k LED Running Lights | 8k Bi-Xenon | 6K LED Plate Lights | 6k Interior LED Swap | Borla ATAK | WK1 Borla Reso Swap | Matching eBrake Pedal | Trinity | Modified DS 93 Tune
SOLD 2007 Silver Jeep SRT8


Last edited by Mongoose9400; 08-08-2012 at 07:58 PM.
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  #44  
Old 08-08-2012, 08:34 PM
droptop63 droptop63 is offline
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Hydrolock

Having owned a C6 ZO6 for the first two years after they came out in 06, I can tell that most of the owners of these with an aftermarket CAI worried about hydrolock. These cars are like vacuum cleaners compared to our GC SRT8's with regard to hugging the pavement. I had quite a few mods on mine including a CAI system. Living in desert areas doesn't worry you too much but, for the most part, most guys just didn't drive much during bad storms. The best thing I can suggest for our vehicles is a stainless splash shield, which covers about half of the open element (spaced about 1/2 inch away from the filter) and faces the front of incoming air. 4WD guys have been using these for years because the cooling fans will shovel lots of water onto the filter if you get into fairly deep water. This shield will take a direct hit of water splashed at the front of the filter and divert it away from the main body. When I get a chance I will try to post a pic of this.

Last edited by droptop63; 08-08-2012 at 08:35 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #45  
Old 08-08-2012, 09:06 PM
rivetpro rivetpro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongoose9400 View Post
Rivetpro

I've had my bwoody go through 7 straight hours of storms and down pours (about 400 miles of driving) without issue. The filter actually stays pretty dry in its location. A dry charger is highly recommended. Yes, hydrolock is a concern, but I don't think you need to worry unless you start to drive through deep standing water. The filter bottom sits 15" off the ground, roughly the middle of the wheel. Then the filter would have to be submerged to suck up water. IMO just be careful of standing water puddles, and drive slow in them if needed. Under 5mph which is the recommended speed.

That bypass valve could work, but I don't see a 4" offering. Use that in place of the silicone adapter that goes from the bwoody to the intake. Else, cut a section of the bwoody about and splice it together with that bypass.
Thanks mongoose. It's just that jersey is a flood zone. The whole state is at water level. I have seen flood waters accumulate in minutes. Also the potholes are so big, they are not easy to know how deep they are. I like the splash guard idea and the dry charger. If I could get passed the potholes and the sudden rivers that appear..... I would be in. Im probably going to keep looking for a better design or think about other ways to access the cold (or not hot) air. If nothing surfaces, I will be in the bwoody. I'll give it until winter.... Then I will cave to the existing alternatives.
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  #46  
Old 08-08-2012, 09:08 PM
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How does the bypass work? When negative pressure is too high (if filter is under water), it will open? Does the filter need to be completely submerged for it to work?
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  #47  
Old 08-08-2012, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivetpro View Post
Thanks mongoose. It's just that jersey is a flood zone. The whole state is at water level. I have seen flood waters accumulate in minutes. Also the potholes are so big, they are not easy to know how deep they are. I like the splash guard idea and the dry charger. If I could get passed the potholes and the sudden rivers that appear..... I would be in. Im probably going to keep looking for a better design or think about other ways to access the cold (or not hot) air. If nothing surfaces, I will be in the bwoody. I'll give it until winter.... Then I will cave to the existing alternatives.
I understand what you're getting at.

It's monsoon season in the desert I'm getting my fair share of flash floods almost nightly. I just drive more cautious and make sure to avoid the water if possible or slow it down.

The other day I was driving my parents f 450 and hit some flash floods, I wouldn't have attempted the crossing with the Jeep. It covered the entire road and then some and went about 20-30' long. Had a swift current and more than a 1.5' of water depth easily. Many cars pulled over to wait it out. I figured the 8,000 lb plus truck could tackle it. It did without issue. There was a few other spots that where washed over with flash flood waters. Cool to see IMO.


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  #48  
Old 08-08-2012, 09:16 PM
droptop63 droptop63 is offline
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Porsche Cayenne

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Originally Posted by rivetpro View Post
I would say its similar, but, I would think the atak would sound more like this cayenne video Porsche Cayenne S Start-Up & Rev [Exhaust Notes] - YouTube.

The s-type borla sound less "flappy" and a lot smoother. The s-types borlas downshift is amazing. Now I use the paddles all the time. I basically drive around town in first gear because it sounds awesome.
I have to say again that the Cayenne is damned close to the sound of the Borla system. The difference is, of course, that the Porsche motor has a "silky" edge to the sound. This is German engine design and mechanicals but definitely does not mean that it is a better motor. A couple of these sound clips give me goal to shoot for.
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  #49  
Old 08-08-2012, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rivetpro View Post
How does the bypass work? When negative pressure is too high (if filter is under water), it will open? Does the filter need to be completely submerged for it to work?
I'm sure the filter needs to be completely submerged before the bypass works.

A few borrowed pieces of info from the site:

When your intake becomes submerged, your Air Bypass Valve immediately springs into action. It closes off induction from your main filter and reroutes the air flow through its external diaphragm. Plus, the integrated foam filter traps dust and blocks debris from getting into your powerplant.

Keep your engine breathing freely even when your intake is submerged in water with AEM's Air Bypass Valve
Exclusively designed to work with your AEM Cold Air Intake.

When your intake's main filter becomes submerged, your Air Bypass Valve automatically takes over, shutting off induction from the wet filter and drawing air in through its external diaphragm



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  #50  
Old 08-08-2012, 10:16 PM
rivetpro rivetpro is offline
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Thanks mongoose.... How bad is the ecu Effect aftEric the install? Of both bwoody and also for comparison. The atak? I'm at 300 miles with mine.
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