WK2 How To - HID Fog Install

[Mongoose9400]

12V 35w Slim Digital Ballast 6k H11 HID Fog Lights.

Time:
2-4 hours

Parts:

Self Taping Metal Screws
Zip Ties

Tools:
Soldering Iron
Solder
Electrical Tape
Wire Loom
Heat Shrink
Lighter
Wire Strippers
Diagonal Cutters
Digital Multimeter
Drill
1/8th Drill Bit
Few Small Metric Sockets
Ratchet or Impact
Phillips Screw Driver
Trim Remval Tools
Jack and Jack Stands
Wheel removal tools, Ratchet, 22mm Socket, Torque Wrench
Plastic Rivet Gun and 6.6mm Plastic Rivets (harbor freight)
Maybe a few other things...

Steps:
Choke the rear wheels and set the E-brake. Jack up both sides of the front and set on jack stands. There is a small triangle on the side skirts near the front that show jack placement. Remove wheels.


Drill out the 4 plastic rivets going up the outside of the fender liner. Use the trim removal tools and pull out the remaining rivets to allow the liner to be folded back in half almost. There are a few bolts at the bottom of the liner near the belly pan/brake duct that need removed, and one bolt on the upper side of outside of the fender. Pull the liner back to expose the work area.



I took my relay harness and prepped it by adding wire loom around it and taping off the ends. I loosely fed the harness around the engine bay and zip tied it in. Dropping the leads down to the driver side first.




I had to cut the factory fog light connector off since it wouldn't plug into the relay harness. I also cut the connector off the end of the relay harness. I stripped the wires back on each. Slide a piece of heat shrink over each wire. Soldered and heat shrink each connection. On my relay harness Blue was - and White was +. On the OEM fog harness Black was - and White with a red/orange strip was +. Connect BLUE to BLACK and WHITE to WHITE w/Stripe. Put the connections back into the wire loom, add extra wire loom and electric tape the ends.



Prepared my Ballasts by bolting on the mounting brackets.



Locate a spot, mark the holes, pre-drill pilots holes and then use the metal self tapping screws to fasten.


Insert HID fog light bulb and make all necessary connections. Tidy up the area and zip tie wires out of the way and secure them.


DRIVER SIDE IS DONE. REPEAT THE SAME BASIC STEPS FOR THE PASSENGER SIDE.

Passenger side pics




Clean and tidy up the install. Put the wheel liners back in, wheels on, etc...

[Mongoose9400]

Some pics of my wire harness routing. The relay is tucked into the cavity above the passenger headlight to protect it from the elements. Power + comes from the stud in the fuse box. I used the bolt behind the fuse box for the ground - connection.









Some Final Pics

[CLStech]

Looking very good!

Again thnk you for the detailed How-To

[Mongoose9400]

Originally Posted by CLS

Looking very good!

Again thnk you for the detailed How-To

Thanks. No problem on the write up. It's a very clean install, you'd never know its there. The harness is very hidden, and with the ballasts mounted below you won't see them. All appears factory looking. It takes some time to do the install like this, but it's one a professional level. Should run issue free for years to come. Can't wait for it to get dark to really test out the new lighting mods.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

[CLStech]

Are you looking into changing the OEM headlamp as well. Is it even possible to convert them to 6K.

I think your setup looks great... I just know I am OCD when matching the color temps of my lighting. I think I like 6K better but i just need to make sure the OEM headlight can be changed to match the aftermarket stuff... or i'll be going with the 5K range on LEDs and Fog HID.

[Mongoose9400]

The OEM Bi-Xenon bulbs can be swapped to 6k. They are D1S bulbs. I may look into it down the road. Im gonna see how I like the setup first. Right now the fogs and DRLs match. The factory Bi-Xenon and LED strips match. Once nighttime comes around I'll get a better idea of the color matching.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

[J&D's SRT's]

Damn Zac here you go again haha.

Do you ever just relax?

Jim

[Mongoose9400]

Originally Posted by J&D's SRT's

Damn Zac here you go again haha.

Do you ever just relax?

Jim

It's relaxing from here on out. Well, until Friday at 3am when I gotta get up and catch a 6am flight for work. One I get home and the Borla shows up...that's another story.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

[JEEPYOU]

Hi Zac, quick question... when you drilled out the plastic rivets to get the inner fender liner out of the way, what did you use to secure it back? Best price I can find on the plastic rivets (through dealers and online, ChryCo not generic) was $4.49 per and that is outrageous!

Thank you for the great write ups!

[Mongoose9400]

Goto harbor freight tools and pick up a plastic rivet gun and 6.6mm and 6.3mm rivets. Maybe like $20 out the door. It's one of Harbor Freights good tools. The rivets are supposedly OEM quality from my readings. Great tool to have around if you work on your cars.


Sent from my iPhone 4S