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  #31  
Old 04-22-2012, 09:04 AM
Anders Anders is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwag One View Post
The srt10 looks sexy.
Thank You!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwag One View Post
The srt10 looks sexy. How did you find such a deal? Dealers auction?
Actually on Craigslist. Insurance buy-back, complete wreck if you ask me. Broken in to, glass everywhere. broken windows, scratched paint, headlights, and taillights poor, tires and rims useless. However; Chassis, mechanically, power train, seats, etc. in perfect condition. And at 28k on the ODO - great start for a compete renovation at half off market value....
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2007 Jeep SRT-8 - my build here: My 440 build - For Sale
2004 Lambo G, Satin Black
Audi S8, Satin Black
Lincoln Limousine - For Sale
Excursion Liomusine

Some Ex:
2008 Porsche CTT
2008 Cammed TBSS, satin black
2006 RAM SRT-10, satin black
2004 Blown Z06, satin black
2005 Turbo'ed Yukon,
2006 Cammed Charger SRT-8
2003 F-150 Harley....
2000 Ford Harley Davidson Excursion
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  #32  
Old 04-23-2012, 07:02 PM
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blahson blahson is offline
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SICKKKK, you definitely found the perfect deal for your plans to this rig. I'm definitely subscribed to this
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06 Jeep SRT8

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  #33  
Old 04-23-2012, 07:13 PM
3point5 3point5 is offline
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Originally Posted by Anders View Post
Thank You!



Actually on Craigslist. Insurance buy-back, complete wreck if you ask me. Broken in to, glass everywhere. broken windows, scratched paint, headlights, and taillights poor, tires and rims useless. However; Chassis, mechanically, power train, seats, etc. in perfect condition. And at 28k on the ODO - great start for a compete renovation at half off market value....
Yeah, great deal. I just paid 24,500 for my 07 with 75k miles.
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  #34  
Old 04-26-2012, 11:41 AM
Anders Anders is offline
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HID installed

HID installation finished . I live on a non-lit road and this is my third vehicle in a row using the same setup. I am using a projector housing for the lows, and regular reflector for the highs. The fogs need to be projector with a good cut-off.
  • Fogs: 55w HID, 5,000 lumens each (roughly) and 6,000K
  • Low: 55w HID, 5,000 lumens each (roughly) and 6,000K
  • Hi: 100w HID, 10,000 lumens each (roughly) and 6,000K
Usually; I trigger my fogs with the highs (anyone tried this with a diode in the fuse box?), but not this time. 40,000 lumens seems overkill after driving around last night. As a reference, four regular halogen bulbs would throw around 4,000 - 5,000 total lumens



HID Fogs, DRL,LED,


Low beam, drl,led, good cut-off, no risk of blinding people.


Hi beam, and lo together. This is tough to photo, even in broad daylight.





So Hi beams are throwing around 30,000 lumens (Low and Hi together), which needless to say carries a lot of responsibility. If anyone wants to attempt this, I recommend:
  • Immediately turn off Hi-beam, when you see meeting traffic, coming up on slower traffic, etc.
  • Separate wiring for the Hi Beam, at least. The low beam wiring seems to handle the current.
  • Good cut-off line and calibrated, as not to blind other motorists for both fogs and lows
  • Use a cast after-market fog housing (I ran mine in the drive way until thermal saturation and had no heating issues)
6,000K seems to work very well for my eyes with 4,300 being optimum (lumens per watt) and 3,400 being daylight.

Last edited by Anders; 04-27-2012 at 08:13 PM.
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  #35  
Old 04-26-2012, 12:10 PM
Anders Anders is offline
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HID lights and heat build up - here is the mathematic analysis behind our issues...

First, we start with looking at where the energy goes?

Incandescent
Visible Light 8%
Infra Red 73% (needed to keep the filament warm)
UV 0%
Total Radiant Energy 81%
Heat (Conduct + Convect) 19%
Heat (cond+conv+IR) 92%

HID
Visible Light 27% (This is the reason we switch...)
Infra Red 17%
UV 19% (Unwanted side effect - don't stare at HIDs too long, you'll get snowblind!!!)
Total Radiant Energy 63%
Heat (Conduct + Convect) 37%
Heat (cond+conv+IR) 54%

Since I switched a 55w incandescent to 100w HID in my High beams, this is my story:

A 55W incandescent will generate 10.5W of heat and 50,6W (92%) of heat + IR. The Infrared is needed to keep the filament warm to maintain glow so a necessary evil. A 100W HID will generate 37W of heat and 54W of heat and infrared.

Depending on the heat disappation (conduction and convection components in my lens), theoretically, I might see as much as 4 times the heat build up. If you figure the infrared component too, I will only see a 8% heat increase compared to 55W halogens. This will be interesting. Currently, my lights are holding the 100w/55W HIDs without any problem, which leads me to beleive that the Infrared component is contributing significantly more than 0 to the overall heat build-up in the Halogens; Hence, The required delta heat disappation will be in the lower ranges, and which is the reason that my setup works without melting anything.

So far so good.

Last edited by Anders; 04-26-2012 at 01:41 PM.
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  #36  
Old 04-26-2012, 12:13 PM
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Texas SRT8 Texas SRT8 is offline
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Wow, looks like your project is coming together quite nicely!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anders View Post
So what about emblems? (yes, sorry for the dirt, just rained, and I drove..)

option 1
I'd go this option but delete the SRT8 badge and just have the 440 badge back there.
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  #37  
Old 04-26-2012, 04:00 PM
Anders Anders is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas SRT8 View Post
Wow, looks like your project is coming together quite nicely!



I'd go this option but delete the SRT8 badge and just have the 440 badge back there.
Thanks,

Yeah, I am leaning towards that way too.
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  #38  
Old 04-27-2012, 09:11 PM
UnsafeAtAnySpd UnsafeAtAnySpd is offline
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Night pictures of the lights? Also, where do you get 100W kits?
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'07 GCSRT8
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  #39  
Old 04-28-2012, 09:52 AM
Anders Anders is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnsafeAtAnySpd View Post
Night pictures of the lights? Also, where do you get 100W kits?
I bought separates a while back from a master distributor (I think there are a few manufacturer that use several sales channels and retailers) and now I believe you can get complete kits on ebay and elsewhere. Just pay attention to the quality. There is a little bit less room for errors when power gets up. I also prefer the larger style Ballast with integrated, casted heat sinks, which have been significantly more reliable for me.
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  #40  
Old 04-28-2012, 09:53 AM
Anders Anders is offline
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Several people have PM'ed me about the "440" emblems. I just bought six "4" and three "0" in the font, size and depth I liked. There are complete kits here too, and usually you pay a few bucks more...
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