agree with bennett15 110%.......you need to run the relay harness
most guys that have this issue find that the relay harness solves all their issues
***for those that dont know, here is what the relay harness does...you will connect the relay harness to the drivers side headlight pigtail and to the battery + and -....the outputs on the relay harness will go directly to the HID ballasts themselves...you will not use the passenger side headlight pigtail at all, it will remain unplugged....what this will do is allow the headlight switch, which originally sent power to the lights themselves, to send a 12v signal to the relay you just installed...when the relay sees the 12v signal it will make the relay which will in turn allow the full battery + and - to activate the ballasts....this will do away with the having to turn them on/off/on to get the ballasts to fire up as they will not be getting the degraded current from the headlight switch but the full monte from the battery.
if problems still exist after installing the relay harness you can try increasing all of the headlight fuses controlling HID lights in the panel by 5amps...this is explained in a following post below
2008 SRT8*Silver*CAI*Flowmaster*180 tstat*Catch Can*8000k HIDs HI/LOW/FOG*all LED interior*Custom audio*ToonaTooned!!!
I have never increased the fuse size when installing HIDs.
im going to modify my original response ekaz
most have not and typically i do not agreee with increasing fuse amperage over what the mfg originally installed, however, the reasoning i got behind this was from a very respected tech at a very respected company that deals soley with automotive electronics and seems to make sense and be sound....here is what i got in a nut shell
several years ago when the hid craze hit and it became affordable there were NUMEROUS issues with lights that would not come on unless you turned the lights on/off/on...this was due to the fact that the ballasts require a significant "surge" of current to light off when cold...by rolling the switch on/off/on the initial on cycle basically "primed" the ballast for light off and the second cycle would be able to sustain ignition. this is where the increase the amperage rating by 5amps came in...he said that by increasing the flow capability of the fuse by just 5amps that more times than not it would allow enough of that needed initial surge through to not only light off the ballasts but also to sustain the ignition...made sense to me...when i asked about the added strain on the OE system he went on to say that the amp draw of the ballast was actually less than that of the standard incandescent headlight bulb so that was not an issue and also that the needed "surge" was only a fraction of a second in nature, once the surge was allowed to flow to the ballast the amperage need fell back off to less than the OE amp load. this made sense to me as well
with that being said, by far the best way to address the HID issues in our jeeps(either hi or lo beam) is to do the install with a relay harness so you remove the factory wiring/circuit load from the equation all together, but the fuse replacement can be performed if problems still exist.
wow... old thread!
You have to use a relay harness when upgrading the low beams on the WK to HID to avoid any flickering issues. That is why whenever Cherokeesrt8 members use coupon code "CSRT8" when purchasing an HID kit we automatically include a relay harness!!
Yes, relay harness is a must......which makes increasing the factory fuse size pointless. With a relay you are simply using the factory wiring as a trigger and power is coming directly off the battery.
The Xtreme Digital kits from Steve are very nice......that's all that I sell and install with our painted headlights and for fogs.
__________________ Daniel C. - 08 SRT8
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