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Borla S-Type install on 2012 SRT8jeep

50K views 206 replies 44 participants last post by  SRTBLK 
#1 ·
Just installed the first borla S type on the rig. I had a hard time making the decision whether to go a T a K or S-type. After some coaching from Borla i selected the S-type. Install myself at a friends oil change place. I think we only lifted the rig quarter of an inch off the ground. The restless piece of cake.

Listen to the idle video here. Let me know what you think in comparison to the ATAK

 
#40 ·
Firetruck - After all the research that I did on this subject, the BWoody is worth the plunge to me. But, I understand, from the guys here, that the ECU can take up to a couple of thousand miles to completely learn the new driving patterns.
I have done a lot of research and have no problem with the expense of the bwoody, but the hydro lock scares the hell out of me. That vent is so close to the ground and splashing puddles is the worry. Alot of people have success with the Bwoody, but, Remember, a splashing puddle is a bunch of randomly deposited water and it could be just luck. 9,000 for a new engine is just too risky. as for the design, I do believe bwoody takes the cake. Ram air is the way to go. Hennessy is pretty, but im not sold on it yet. No cold air, no heat shield, and a very hot engine doesn't make a good mix. I think henneseys results were done on a cold day at startup. I am thinking if making my own if someone doesn't design a better one soon. Or just going with an in filer in the existing box. That box pulls air from the vent under the rig. Look at the airfoil in front underneath the bumper. It routes cold air into the box. At least I think it takes in cold air better then the hennesey. Not about to spend 400 on hennesey that looks nice but doesn't show much improvement. If you're in the desert then bwoody is designed well. Hydro lock isnthenmain concern.
 
#43 · (Edited)
Rivetpro

I've had my bwoody go through 7 straight hours of storms and down pours (about 400 miles of driving) without issue. The filter actually stays pretty dry in its location. A dry charger is highly recommended. Yes, hydrolock is a concern, but I don't think you need to worry unless you start to drive through deep standing water. The filter bottom sits 15" off the ground, roughly the middle of the wheel. Then the filter would have to be submerged to suck up water. IMO just be careful of standing water puddles, and drive slow in them if needed. Under 5mph which is the recommended speed.

That bypass valve could work, but I don't see a 4" offering. Use that in place of the silicone adapter that goes from the bwoody to the intake. Else, cut a section of the bwoody about and splice it together with that bypass.
 
#45 ·
Thanks mongoose. It's just that jersey is a flood zone. The whole state is at water level. I have seen flood waters accumulate in minutes. Also the potholes are so big, they are not easy to know how deep they are. I like the splash guard idea and the dry charger. If I could get passed the potholes and the sudden rivers that appear..... I would be in. Im probably going to keep looking for a better design or think about other ways to access the cold (or not hot) air. If nothing surfaces, I will be in the bwoody. I'll give it until winter.... Then I will cave to the existing alternatives.
 
#44 · (Edited)
Hydrolock

Having owned a C6 ZO6 for the first two years after they came out in 06, I can tell that most of the owners of these with an aftermarket CAI worried about hydrolock. These cars are like vacuum cleaners compared to our GC SRT8's with regard to hugging the pavement. I had quite a few mods on mine including a CAI system. Living in desert areas doesn't worry you too much but, for the most part, most guys just didn't drive much during bad storms. The best thing I can suggest for our vehicles is a stainless splash shield, which covers about half of the open element (spaced about 1/2 inch away from the filter) and faces the front of incoming air. 4WD guys have been using these for years because the cooling fans will shovel lots of water onto the filter if you get into fairly deep water. This shield will take a direct hit of water splashed at the front of the filter and divert it away from the main body. When I get a chance I will try to post a pic of this.
 
#49 ·
I'm sure the filter needs to be completely submerged before the bypass works.

A few borrowed pieces of info from the site:

When your intake becomes submerged, your Air Bypass Valve immediately springs into action. It closes off induction from your main filter and reroutes the air flow through its external diaphragm. Plus, the integrated foam filter traps dust and blocks debris from getting into your powerplant.

Keep your engine breathing freely even when your intake is submerged in water with AEM's Air Bypass Valve
Exclusively designed to work with your AEM Cold Air Intake.

When your intake's main filter becomes submerged, your Air Bypass Valve automatically takes over, shutting off induction from the wet filter and drawing air in through its external diaphragm



Sent from my iPhone 4S
 
#51 ·
Not sure what you're asking. My bwoody had been installed for 10k+ miles, the ATAK maybe 500 miles. The ECU has no problem learning them. The Jeep seems to perform better than when it was stock.


Sent from my iPhone 4S
 
#55 ·
I've gotten these 2 same comments with the ATAK. That don't sound like no Jeep. Can you tell I live in the south? :jawdrop:
 
#57 · (Edited)
Very nice Pkane3. I like the way your tips extend out just a tad. Looks and sounds great! Does anyone know if there much of a power diff between tha ATAK and the S ? The S is definitely loud enough for me, but I honestly cant tell much sound difference between the two.


Borla confimed no power difference between the two today. ATAK has raspier sound at higher RPMs, S sound is deeper and a little more mono toned.
 
#62 ·
im not sure if you guys mentioned this earlier, but is there any drone inside the truck? are there the same issues that were on the WK1 Borla S?
 
#68 · (Edited)
Why are you going to have them welded instead of use the clamps?

What's the shops hourly rate? That doesn't seem too bad IMO. It takes about 30 minutes to an hour to swap the exhaust and most shops charge around $75 an hour. So figure in time and material to weld and it seems reasonable. Granted I still think it is more than what needs to be paid for such a simple job. I paid around $80 bucks for a shop to install my WK1 Borla S system. I installed the ATAK on my WK2. I couldn't justify spending $100-200 for such a simple install. Shops around my area wanted $70-80 and hour and were quoting me 2-4 hours. I laughed and took my business to myself lol.
 
#65 ·
I would go somewhere else. If you are installing a axle back borla on a WK2 it takes about 15 minutes at a professional shop. It cost me $40. I did not have them weld it. Used the clamps that came with it.
 
#66 ·
There is only two pipes to weld. Should not cost more that another $40 for that. But, it should be less than that.
 
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