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Transfer Case Removal Question

14K views 23 replies 11 participants last post by  cmn1 
#1 · (Edited)
Transfer Case Removal Question/ brief DIY

I plan on removing my transfer case and replacing all the internals, clutch pack, chain , gears, ect. Ive been running 2wd for around 9 months because the case started to bind up. Do i need to drop the tranny to remove the transfer case? Any points i need to support with a jack while im working on the transfer case? Other than the fluid inside of the case do i need to worry about any other fluid leaking? I've quoted around $800 to $900 in parts to completely rebuild. Any tips or tricks would be helpful.

Thanks -Jason
 
#2 ·
You don't have to remove the trans to remove the transfer case. I would put a floor jack under the trans to support it. No other fluids to be concerned about, pretty straight forward.
 
#3 ·
its almost light enough to just drop on your chest from the looks of it.. if you can support the splines when you remove it, if youve done alot of wrenching youd be able to get away with that
 
#4 ·
The transfer case isn't that heavy, but isn't super light either.
 
#5 · (Edited)
so I have my jeep up on the ramps and i have 6 of the bolts out of the transfer case where it connects to the transmission. There are 3 on the passenger side of the case and 2 on top that are just about impossible to access with any type of tool. Is there a trick to getting to them or should i just chalk up my loses and take it to a shop?


also could i just slip the transfer case while still installed on the car to replace the clutches??
 
#6 ·
A universal or two and a couple extensions should work just fine. They are a paint to get to, but can be taken out.
If you lower the trans a little (assuming you have a jack under it), it'll slant down and should give you a little more room in that area.
 
#7 ·
the trans is still being held up my the trans mounts it wont move. There seems to be a bracket holding the exhaust that is directly in the way. Do i need to remove that I have tried all sorts of extensions and everything. My next option will be just splitting the case while still attached and trying to replace the clutches that way
 
#8 ·
Put a jack with a piece of wood under the trans pan, take the trans mount off, then lower the floor jack a little. The trans should tilt down enough to get in there for those bolts.
The trans mount should be right around where the trans and transfer case meet, it doesn't hold the exhaust at all.
 
#9 ·
today i was defeated. I attempted to just crack open half of the unit while the other half stayed installed into the transmission. Everything was going great until i hit the bolt that holds the driveshaft coupler thing on. Didnt have any kind of tool that would work. I will regroup buy the proper tool and try again another day to finish the project. If not i have 300 bucks worth of clutch plates.Thanks for the help though.
 
#10 ·
Does anyone know what size socket is needed to remove the nut that holds the coupler on the tcase to the drive shaft coming out of the tcase
 
#16 ·
Here is some info I got off my alldata.
Removal
Text Line art Font Illustration Line

torque specs
Text Font Line Number Design

Hope this helps bro


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.com App
 
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#17 ·
Thanks for the links!!
Im going to split the case while still attached to the tranny. I just need to find out the size of the bolt that holds the output coupler to driveshaft on. When i figure it all out ill do a mini diy.
 
#18 ·
Ok the bolt is a 32mm and need a deep drive socket to get it. I took the rear most plate off the case today. Went to undo the bolts to crack the center open and one sheared right in half. Tomorrow im going to get a bolt extractor kit to remove it and attempt to finish the job. Does anyone know if the dealer sells those bolts? If so what the part number is. Im going to attempt to do a diy write up if i can finish. Any input would be much appreciated
 
#19 ·
Torn down the transfer case today.

Need
Full tool set, assorted extensions. Mainly 15mm and 10 mm sockets.

1.Rolled my rig up on wheel ramps to start the project(ebrake and wheel stops).

2.Unbolted the rear drive shaft that comes out of the t-case(4 bolts 15mm)

3. drain the fluid out of the tcase

4.Remove 32mm bolt that holds the drive shaft coupler to the output shaft and take off the coupler(may require a few light taps from a hammer) A little fluid will leak out the result is pictured.


5. Unbolt the rear most plate on the t-case itself (10mm) There are two pry spots on the plate on on the bottom and one on top, since the case is still installed on the car you have to take a large flat head and pry it off with the bottom one, it takes alittle cause you have to break the seals. After you take the plate off you will see below. The two gear like metal pieces need to be removed.


6. Unbolt the center of the t-case (may need some liquid wrench) I sheared one bolt so i had to drill it out. Just be careful when removing them.

7. Unplug the hose that is on the top of the case

8. Split the case using a larger screw driver.

9. After you remove the case theres a snap ring holding the plate into the clutch basket.
remove the snap ring and the top plate will come off and the clutches will be exposed. With the clutches removed it will look like so.


10. Took the case out and cleaned it up, new clutches and plates.



11. Put them back the way they came out. Make sure the magnet get cleaned and everything gets wiped out good.

12.Use high temp silicone to re-seal the case back together when its time to reinstall the half.

13. reinstall the rear most plate, make sure you seal inside where you see the old gasket as well as the outside.

14. torque all the bolts down and reinstall the hose on the top of the case.

15. Let the case dry before you add the fluid. Then add the fluid.

16. Reinstall the t-case motor and plug is back in.

17. Drive it and enjoy a fresh t-case.


old clutches



The clutches i removed were terrible, burnt all up. My case hummed alittle until i drove it around the neighborhood, now its functioning good.
I rode 2wd for over one year and now im happy and back to awd. Thanks for anyone who helped me. It ended up costing around $500 bucks to rebuild completely.

Ill get the part numbers that i purchased.
 
#20 ·
Great Job...Thanks for sharing! This should be a sticky in the do-it yourself section.
 
#21 ·
Nice write up, too bad others here don't do their own work.

This job really is simple to do and look at the cash you saved.

.
 
#22 ·
#24 ·
Post this in the DIY for review forum.
 
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