I used to own a Charger 2006 SRT-8 with a SRTmax cam. (I miss the sound it made at idle around 600-650 rpm). Here we go again with a Jeep: I will try to keep the budget below 35k...
Build cost/status
Vehicle - Acquired Jan 5th, 2012
440 PWR - completed
vinyl wrap instead 3M 1080 satin black - completed
Powdercoated rims completed
Custom interior Suede headliner, carpets, and seats completed
No replacement for displacement. I understand some concerns with the con rod angle at the max angle, however; no one has warned me and told me to go 426 instead. Stage 2 will run low boost 6-8 psi so this is a low compression 440.
I used to own a Charger 2006 SRT-8 with a SRTmax cam. (I miss the sound it made at idle around 600-650 rpm). Here we go again with a Jeep: I will try to keep the budget below 35k...
Build cost/status
Vehicle - Acquired (2007, 28k miles, $17,200 plus freight 1,000)
Have you seen the vehicle you are purchasing? I would be very weary of any buyer who is selling a 2007 in decent condition with anything short of 90K miles for that amount of money .
R1 has great break options I would consider if I were you.
Taillight solutions can do the blacked out tail lights for you.
You can either paint the trim pieces yourself and save some money or buy the black molding cover up tape.
The only exhaust you are finding for $500 is used.
Also don't forget that install of the 440 with the miscellaneous new parts you will need will most like be more than the 10K.
Ppi and I test drove it. Runs perfect, vandalized paint, but since I re-paint all my vehicles anyway, no big deal. Yes, this is a killer deal and the reason I go back into an SRT-8. I come off an Porsche CTT. The exhaust is a custom. My friend owns a local shop. as the 440, if I wasn't for my buddies the price tag on this one could easily reach 45k plus. Notion taken on the tails and R1. I will check them out.
Looks like money is not a problem so contact any of the vendors here and they will hook you up. Name it, this forum can take care of you.
Welcome to the forum BTW.
this is gunna be fun to see unfold welcome to the forum man! R1 is a great place that people have recommended, where i got mine :bigthumb: . And Boychiks hood from Black ops, be careful, they have alot of cool stuff and you money will keep going to them somehow haha. Throw up some pics of all your cars together once you get that jeep with you, always fun to see the barn all together, especially after your build.
I used to own a Charger 2006 SRT-8 with a SRTmax cam. (I miss the sound it made at idle around 600-650 rpm). Here we go again with a Jeep: I will try to keep the budget below 35k...
Build cost/status
Vehicle - Acquired (2007, 28k miles, $17,200 plus freight 1,000)
440 PWR - quote received 10k
Paint - quote received 2K - going with wrap this time
Powdercoated rims - quote received 220 Done
New tires - quote received 1,000 Done
Front blacked out projectors - 200
HIDs (100w HI, 55 Lo, 35w fog) - 250 Done
Lowering kit Eibach - 250 I think it already is lowered
Looking good! What wrap are you planning on going with?
Saw your comment above, and as mentioned, it is a Black Ops Venom hood, price ranges from around $1k-1500 depending on carbon fiber, fiber glass, and inner CF or FG.
We sell Black Ops products, give us a buzz whenever you'd like, they range from 1000-1500 depending on materials used pretty much and have a 5-6 week turnaround time on them, sometimes more, sometimes less depending on their workloads of course.
Welcome to the forum! You GOT A great deal!...what color paint you going with... my one suggestion is to get yourself a Borla Exhaust if you really want to hear that thing scream!!
Thanks, I appreciate the input. I have painted three of my last five rides flat black. I was planning on trying a wrap this time...
My previous flat black Vette
My past flat Black SRT-10
My previous TBSS
I am going with 1 7/8 - 3" long tube headers, no cats, muffler delete, but resonators in place. I had the same on my Charger, and loved the way it sounded. A little bit extra displacement, and I think it will sound good. I though of using electric cut-outs, if the sound is still to mild.
Actually on Craigslist. Insurance buy-back, complete wreck if you ask me. Broken in to, glass everywhere. broken windows, scratched paint, headlights, and taillights poor, tires and rims useless. However; Chassis, mechanically, power train, seats, etc. in perfect condition. And at 28k on the ODO - great start for a compete renovation at half off market value....
HID installation finished . I live on a non-lit road and this is my third vehicle in a row using the same setup. I am using a projector housing for the lows, and regular reflector for the highs. The fogs need to be projector with a good cut-off.
Fogs: 55w HID, 5,000 lumens each (roughly) and 6,000K
Low: 55w HID, 5,000 lumens each (roughly) and 6,000K
Hi: 100w HID, 10,000 lumens each (roughly) and 6,000K
Usually; I trigger my fogs with the highs (anyone tried this with a diode in the fuse box?), but not this time. 40,000 lumens seems overkill after driving around last night. As a reference, four regular halogen bulbs would throw around 4,000 - 5,000 total lumens
HID Fogs, DRL,LED,
Low beam, drl,led, good cut-off, no risk of blinding people.
Hi beam, and lo together. This is tough to photo, even in broad daylight.
So Hi beams are throwing around 30,000 lumens (Low and Hi together), which needless to say carries a lot of responsibility. If anyone wants to attempt this, I recommend:
Immediately turn off Hi-beam, when you see meeting traffic, coming up on slower traffic, etc.
Separate wiring for the Hi Beam, at least. The low beam wiring seems to handle the current.
Good cut-off line and calibrated, as not to blind other motorists for both fogs and lows
Use a cast after-market fog housing (I ran mine in the drive way until thermal saturation and had no heating issues)
6,000K seems to work very well for my eyes with 4,300 being optimum (lumens per watt) and 3,400 being daylight.
HID lights and heat build up - here is the mathematic analysis behind our issues...
First, we start with looking at where the energy goes?
Incandescent
Visible Light 8%
Infra Red 73% (needed to keep the filament warm)
UV 0%
Total Radiant Energy 81%
Heat (Conduct + Convect) 19%
Heat (cond+conv+IR) 92%
HID
Visible Light 27% (This is the reason we switch...)
Infra Red 17%
UV 19% (Unwanted side effect - don't stare at HIDs too long, you'll get snowblind!!!)
Total Radiant Energy 63%
Heat (Conduct + Convect) 37%
Heat (cond+conv+IR) 54%
Since I switched a 55w incandescent to 100w HID in my High beams, this is my story:
A 55W incandescent will generate 10.5W of heat and 50,6W (92%) of heat + IR. The Infrared is needed to keep the filament warm to maintain glow so a necessary evil. A 100W HID will generate 37W of heat and 54W of heat and infrared.
Depending on the heat disappation (conduction and convection components in my lens), theoretically, I might see as much as 4 times the heat build up. If you figure the infrared component too, I will only see a 8% heat increase compared to 55W halogens. This will be interesting. Currently, my lights are holding the 100w/55W HIDs without any problem, which leads me to beleive that the Infrared component is contributing significantly more than 0 to the overall heat build-up in the Halogens; Hence, The required delta heat disappation will be in the lower ranges, and which is the reason that my setup works without melting anything.
I bought separates a while back from a master distributor (I think there are a few manufacturer that use several sales channels and retailers) and now I believe you can get complete kits on ebay and elsewhere. Just pay attention to the quality. There is a little bit less room for errors when power gets up. I also prefer the larger style Ballast with integrated, casted heat sinks, which have been significantly more reliable for me.
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