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The.... "I have a dumb WK1 question" thread.

271K views 2K replies 231 participants last post by  darkseazg 
#1 ·
I have been noticing a lot of new people on the forum in the past 6 months. The point of this thread is a place for you guys to post questions that you may think are dumb. If you guys want to know something about the Jeep and can't find it using the "search" feature, post it up in here and someone will come to your rescue without biting off your head.;) Maybe Bernie can even make it a sticky and even make one of these for the "PERFORMANCE" section too. Just a thought. Ask away guys/gals......
 
#2 ·
How much is it to get a lil boy cam including everything I need?
 
#3 ·
That's kind of a loaded question. Everything you NEED vs everything could could do are two different things. Some people do springs and push rods with a cam, and some don't. Some replace the water pump while they're in there if the milage is mildly high. It can either be a mildly expensive job or a really expensive job. You'll also need a tune.

Are you doing the install yourself?
 
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#5 ·
I'm aware of Eric's thread. I thanked him for it. Chances are..... Eric will never post in here.:lol: This is a place where you can ask vs. starting a thread about it and have him chew your ass out. :D ;)
 
#13 ·
Why are the leaves on trees green?????
Chlorophyll inside the chloroplasts give leaves the green color. There are other pigments in the leaves too, such as xanthophylls (yellows) and carotenoids (yellows, oranges and reds). These pigments are also used in photosynthesis but occur in lesser quantities than the green chlorophyll. The combinations of the different pigments make different shades of green. Now the reason that plants look green is that they are trying to obtain energy from the sun using a particular part of the light spectrum, mainly the red and infra red wavelengths. If you remember from your physics classes the color you see is the color that is reflected from the object, the other colors are absorbed. So in the case of green plants, the green wavelength is reflected and all the other colors, especially reds and blues, are absorbed to drive the energy cycle in the plants. Chlorophyll does best in the red (around 670 nm) and blue (around 500 nm) areas of the spectrum. That's why many plants have the additional pigments (xanthophylls and carotenoids) called accessory pigments that feed light energy to chlorophyll "a" from light. Chlorophyll is almost useless in the green part of the spectrum, and doesn't absorb that color. That is why most plants are green. There are different colors of plants too. However, that does depend a bit on where the plant lives. Many seaweeds are red or brown or blue-green in color because the red wavelengths don't penetrate water very well. In shallow water the seaweeds are still green, but as you get further and further underwater they become much more brown or red in color. That is because these plants use a different part of the light spectrum to drive the photosynthetic cycle. Another common exception to the green color are plants such as begonias. They often have red underneath the leaves and green upper surfaces. This is because begonias live in quite dark parts of the forest (the red coloured begonias get leaf burn in full sunlight). The upper green surface catches the little bit of direct light that penetrates the dense leaf canopy of the forest. The lower red leaf surface collects the red and brown colors that are reflected from the ground surface; just to get that little bit more energy. The chloroplasts are little machines that capture energy from the sun, but they do wear out. Plants have a choice, they can either keep making more machines (chloroplasts filled with chlorophyll) to replace the broken down ones, or they can close down the factory (the leaf) and begin afresh somewhere else. Evergreen plants, such as pines and tropical plants, keep replacing the broken down chloroplasts until the actual structure of the leaf starts to break down, then that particular leaf is closed down after most of the nutrients are reabsorbed. Deciduous plants, like maples, have a slightly different philosophy on life. They only make short term factories (leaves) and start reabsorbing nutrients in autumn. The reason that leaves go various shades of yellow, orange or red is because the elements that make up the chlorophyll are reabsorbed most - they are needed most in another leaf or another time to make more chlorophyll. The other pigments, such as the xanthophylls (yellows) and carotenoids (yellows, oranges and reds), are partially reabsorbed after most of the chlorophyll is gone. That is why you get those brilliant autumn colors for a while, and then everything goes a brown color. I'm not entirely sure why brown is the dead color for plants, but on the other hand whenever I try to mix paint colors to get a different shade I often end up with a muddy brown. So maybe it is just a case of the left over color combine to make a brown. Now are plants "really dead when they die?", well yes. When plants die, they are really dead. However, there are a lot of plants that have various states of dormancy. They might look as if they are dying, but actually, they are only closing the factories (leaves), packaging and storing all the nutrients and getting ready for another season next year. The maples and other deciduous trees close up shop for the winter because at such low temperatures the leaf structure is easily damaged, the chlorophyll reaction doesn't work as well either, and there is very little light available to drive the photosynthetic reaction in any case. So, the deciduous trees "sleep" over the winter, no point in wasting effort in a difficult season. Bulbs, such as tulip and onions, die back once they have achieved their purpose - to become pollinated and spread seed around. Once they've achieved that, they don't bother to stick around to be eaten. Much safer to pull your head in under ground. Saves on nutrients too, because those dang herbivores won't get them if you reabsorb them into the bulb. So, again, they aren't dead, just dormant.
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#15 ·
Great idea but I see this thread deteriorating quickly into silliness...subscribed. Lol
 
#17 ·
Good idea Harrison and it's a sticky now. I changed the title to add "WK1", thinking another one in the WK2 General Discussion forum would be a good idea perhaps. Lets not forget the How To section and I hope members will link to those threads if it's been covered.

I was also thinking one of these threads in General Performance Discussion is good, but to have the title clearly indicate it's for "dumb general performance questions" or something like that so as to not have questions of a general nature in it that are more appropriate in this thread.

Bernie
 
#43 ·
1. The main issue with air to air intercoolers is heat soak before getting to the line. Mine can be anywhere from 10 to 30* over ambient when getting to the line. During the run, my temps either stay the same or drop about 4-6* once I let off the throttle. Having an inefficient intercooler like BBill used to have and Mike Smith's Blue Bee used to have would say start a run at 80* and end at 180* at the end of the run. BBills would raise 100* in 9 seconds.l with his old setup. Now, it stays the same or drops a few or raises 2-4* depending on the weather. Obviously a hot day it would rise a few clicks. Cooler and cold days it will drop.

2. Dangers and pitfalls would be getting a lot of detonation. Cooler air always makes more power.

3. Best thing you can do is use a quality intercooler core and make sure it will support the HP you're making at nominal flow. My intercooler and Bills intercooler is rated at 1225hp nominal. Meaning its constantly seeing 1225hp and peak will be much higher. Make sure the core has very little pressure drop. You don't want 12psi going in and 9psi coming out. Lol. Also, try keeping the engine off as much as possible in the staging lanes and try to keep air moving through the intercooler. Having an inside fan switch helps. Try to get some sort of air moving through the fins.

Hope that helps Doc.


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#23 ·
Thanks guys! Really appreciate it!
 
#25 ·
That sounds nice, but I'm buying the lil boy from tugboatchad... Can that get me into the same time?
 
#29 ·
The answer is No. Happy?
 
#34 ·
Long time listener, first time poster! I've been waiting for a thread like this to pop up to ask my dumb question. Haha. I've found some similar situations, but not sure if they are exactly the same as mine.

My Jeep handles just fine cruising around town, and even on the interstate. However, when I want to get after it, as soon as I hit 85 mph it pulls to the right and makes a weird noise. It sounds like its coming from the front right wheel. I'm afraid to go any faster to see if it goes away. I mean, I didn't get this thing to be happy cruising around at the speed limit. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the thread! I'll still welcome any smack talk. :)

Maas
 
#36 ·
Covered in my last thread.
 
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#40 ·
I had same symptoms, turned out to be the stock goodyears. Thanks to this forum, I checked the inside of the front tires and they were separating. Cut my hand on the steel belts. It drove fine at low speeds but was awful at highway speeds.
 
#56 ·
why are my new rotors grooved already...?
 
#59 ·
I didn't the dealer replaced them with oe stuff on all 4 corners but my fronts are already getting groovy on me not even 4 weeks maybe 500-700 and they looked good until this week I was driving with my stereo off and heard them making noise during light application and the rear seem fine but the fronts are starting to grove a bit left side more than right, I wonder if the electronic stability may have something to do with it, in my cobalt I have turned all electronics off before driving since I can remember cause I hate the computer telling what I should feel I drive it slick mode and I never had any issues and that thing gets raped through every turn I can take goin hot and come out on fire, I enjoy my daily drive a lot ;), with the jeep I don't drive like that you know being about a ton heavier and all lol and only pushed the traction control button about twice once to see what it did and the other to try a get it on slick mode like my ss, but nothing happened it was the same just traction control off which was kinda desappointing so I never bothered touching it again makes me wonder if even though I'm holding back I'm still being to aggressive...:fight:
 
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