I've been waiting to Do it for a while now...I have a 426 from HHP that's been sitting in my garage for months now. Prob goin to do it at the end feb but have a few questions....can the motor and trans be pulled out the top at the same time? Is it easier to leave the trans in and just pull the motor? Can AR LT Headers stay attached for the pull or do
They need to come off??? If the trans can some out at
The same time can the transfer case come
With it? This will be some in my garage with a cherry picker and some
Jack stands So any advice/tips would
Help
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-2006 Grand Cherokee SRT8 -V-3 SI Trim, AR Long Tube Headers, Gibson Exhaust, Custom Tips, 180 T-Stat, Catch Can, Custom Tune
-IN THE WORKS 426 being built by HHP, meth injection, 30t Pulley
-05 RAM SRT 10 QC - 10000k HID head/fog lights, JMB Catless w/Maggie Cat Back, Ported Throttle Body, Caltracs, Rear Bushings, Suncoast Valve Body w/GM solenoid/TransGo Shift kit,170 T-stat, SCT Tuned By Torrie, B&B Headers, Cutouts, 2400 Stall, built tranny, Justin's E-Fan, Hard Radiator Pipes.
Sounds awesome with the swap you're doing. I wish I could lend a hand as I love working on cars and getting my hands all dirty and banged up. I'm not an expert in the swap area so I'll leave it to the pro's. Good luck with your swap/build. God bless
It would be very tricky to take all that out as one unit. I would take the transfer case off. I can't recall right now, but don't think it will come out with the headers attached, it'd be close.
Those ARH headers are a PITA, especially the driver side.
Good luck.
Transmission, and transfer case have to be disconnected, and removed from below. It will be much easier to unbolt things with the tranny out of the way. The headers should be unbolted and removed from below once you lift the engine slightly....they will not clear the fire wall. The only other thing we had to remove for the engine to come out, was the passenger side valve cover.
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Last edited by StangSlayerMA; 01-29-2013 at 10:28 AM.
Transmission, and transfer case have to be disconnected, and removed from below. It will be much easier to unbolt things with the tranny out of the way. The headers should be unbolted and removed from below once you lift the engine slightly....they will not clear the fire wall. The only other thing we had to remove for the engine to come out, was the passenger side valve cover.
No, I pulled my engine for a 426 about a year and a half ago, and there was an issue with the new engine.....so it got sent back and I bought the Procharger.
Last edited by StangSlayerMA; 01-29-2013 at 12:19 PM.
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If it takes 1.5 hours to drop the cradle, why is anyone paying ridiculous labor on header installs? Looks like you could have a cam and headers installed in a day that way.
Probably remove the AC pump with the body... then you don't have to recharge...
Last edited by Jack_Toepfer; 01-29-2013 at 01:18 PM.
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picture is worth a 1000 words....had never thought about this with our Jeeps but i dont know why not, ive done it on camaros and firebirds for YEARS....bout the same time as well, only difference would be front driveshaft coming loose as front diff drops with subframe
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2008 SRT8*Silver*CAI*Flowmaster*180 tstat*Catch Can*8000k HIDs HI/LOW/FOG*all LED interior*Custom audio*ToonaTooned!!!
picture is worth a 1000 words....had never thought about this with our Jeeps but i dont know why not, ive done it on camaros and firebirds for YEARS....bout the same time as well, only difference would be front driveshaft coming loose as front diff drops with subframe
Before I had my buddy committed to build and install my new engine I planned to buy a block from HHP and install it ourselves. The auto body shop that repaired it told me they would drop the tray on a Saturday, let us swap the block and reinstall the tray for $200 and then we could load it on a car trailer and take it back to my house to finish the install.
I think it would be a great way to do headers, heads, and cam too!
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