Brought it into a buddy's shop, Texas Direct Auto wanted me to avoid the dealership and take it to a ASE certified shop. They are writing a estimate for a long block replacement and sending it to TDA, I hope to hear back from them by noon tomorrow. He wanted to send the estimate for the full long block being that there is possible damage to the underside of the head and also, that is what I am pushing for. Also spoke to him and may be able to have him order a performance short block on their dime. But I have a feeling that this will not be a easy task, no matter witch direction it goes. Now it just seems like a bit of a waiting game.
Anyone have any experience with a dealer warranty and if any lawyers had to be involved? I wouldn't mind calling one for some advice.
Yeah heard back from the douche. he said the dealer warranty caps at 2k. that is a a pretty shit answer. He stated only recourse that is to buy back the jeep from me. and now that it is documented that the extended warranty that I bought will refuse the repair costs beacuse it does not come in effect until 30 days after.
He also stated to me on the phone that the check engine light that was on before I took ownership was a "OLD" code for cylinder 1 misfire? I guess there is a seceret memory bank that stores OLD codes, some one set me straight if this is the case but was a BS statment.
That sucks man, hope everything works out for you.
Here is a section from wkjeeps about codes.
After three good trips the MIL is extinguished and the Task Manager automatically switches the trip counter to a warm-up cycle counter. DTCs are automatically erased following 40 warm-up cycles if the component does not fail again. DTCs can be erased anytime with a DRB III. Erasing the DTC with the DRB III erases all OBD II information. The DRB III automatically displays a warning that erasing the DTC will also erase all OBD II monitor data. This includes all counter information for warm-up cycles, trips and Freeze Frame.
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