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Old 11-21-2012, 11:14 AM
jabdelja jabdelja is offline
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NV146 Transfer Case Rebuild DIY

Here is the full write up for rebuilding your transfer case. I was having binding while turning and my service 4wd light went on. I could not afford to buy a new case/built case, and could not afford to have it rebuilt. I took the motor out of the case and ran it in 2wd for 11 months. Now i decided ill make a DIY since no one has and everyone has trouble with their transfer case. Total it cost me $462.00 and some time. Took me 4 times to get it right.

parts
http://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/Tcase_2008_Parts.pdf

-I started by rolling the rig up on some ramps and block the tires so it doesnt roll back, make sure emergency brake is engaged.


-Unhook the battery

-Drain the transfer case

-Take a 15mm socket and take out the drive shaft bolts, you may need a breaker bar and a smaller socket wrench to get them out. (4 bolts total)


-Depress the drive shaft to the rear of the vehicle and unmate it from the transfer case.After moving the drive shaft it will look like so.


-Inside the coupler is a 32mm nut, you must remove it to remove the coupler. It will take a breaker bar and a deep drive socket. One you remove the nut take a hammer and give the couple a couple light taps towards the rear of the vehicle, it should come off. Make sure the output shaft doesn't move. Once you loosen it up you should be able to remove with your hands.Some fluid will drain out.



- Take a 10mm socket and remove all the bolts holding the rear most plate on.After removing the bolts take a large flat head screw driver and pry the plate off using the notch in the bottom of the case. Fluid will leak out


-Remove the two gear like pieces that are around the output shaft.


- Using a 10mm socket, assorted extensions remove the bolts that hold the two sides of the t-case together. I broke one while removing it so be careful liquid wrench may be helpful. After all the bolts are removed on the top of the case is a rubber hose, unplug is from the nipple on the top of the case, you can feel it on the rear most part of the case.
I used a larger pry bar and pried the case apart, it takes alittle because you have to break the seal. Once the seal is broken carefully remove the half of the case.


- On the output shaft there will be a snap ring which holds the clutches in the basket. Remove the snap ring and take out the worn clutches.


-clutches removed



-The clutches alternate between clutch and plate, put the clutches back in how you removed them. Make sure when reinstalling the spring is seated correctly.

- Clean the inside of the t-case,the pickup filter and the magnet in the bottom of the case. I took a piece of sand paper and lightly sanded the edges of the case to clear any debris so the gasket rebonds on reinstall.


-ATTENTION!!! this part is very important, if done wrong you will have to take back apart like i did. When reinstalling the rear most plate that holds the clutches in make sure the notch is facing the passenger side. I installed it wrong the first time and my tcase was engaged 100% of the time. See picture There is a notch in the plate and a notch on the arm that engages the clutches.




- Using high temp oil resistant black liquid gasket outline the half of the t-case you have removed from the vehicle. Make sure both side are clean before reinstalling.



Reinstall the half of the case back. Note Tuck the rubber hose on the top back while reinstalling so it doesnt touch the wet gasket. See the hose at the top of the photo just push it back until you have it installed.


-Put the bolts back in a retorque them down so everything is snug.Plug the hose back into the nipple on the top

-put the gear pieces back onto the output shaft


-put more gasket material on the last plate and reinstall it, torquing all the bolts down.

-Reinstall the drive shaft coupler make sure it lines up perfectly with the drive shaft, if you have to twist the drive shaft to one extreme or the other the coupler is on wrong. The shaft should have a small amount of play in it once reinstalled.

-Install Transfer Case motor and plug.

- Wait a couple hours so the gasket material dries.

-Fill up with NV146 fluid i used about 1 3/4 quarts.

-Plug the battery back up and take it for a spin.


My clutches were torn up


Im not a certified mechanic, this is just a helpful guide if you would like to try to tackle it like i did. Goodluck If anyone has anymore helpful tips they are welcomed.
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  #2  
Old 11-21-2012, 11:19 AM
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Nice write up. Can you post this thread in here so I can make it a DIY?

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/f...play.php?f=134
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:59 AM
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Cool write up and nice work man!!!
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:14 PM
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Awesome write up... This makes me wonder what the parts are make to high-torque T-cases and if a kit can be pieced together for the DIY'er
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by viking757 View Post
Awesome write up... This makes me wonder what the parts are make to high-torque T-cases and if a kit can be pieced together for the DIY'er
Exactly what I was thinking...especially after seeing threads on modified or built 1000hp T-cases...can't be that hard.

This was a great write up, thanks OP for taking the time to do this!
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:18 PM
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Great write-up!
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:32 PM
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Awesome write up, vote for a sticky/diy
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Last edited by Muellge; 11-21-2012 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:46 PM
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Nice work man, this is def a new bookmark for me.
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmn1 View Post
Nice write up. Can you post this thread in here so I can make it a DIY?

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/f...play.php?f=134
.....Submitted
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:59 PM
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Thanks for the write up. Can you explain how that notch in the wrong place makes it stay in AWD all the time? Also, does that notch somehow work with the tcase motor?
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