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  #11  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rconner View Post
Thats funny you ask, I hooked it up to the cig lighter in the center console, 12v all the time, and same thing. Just a flashing light.... I am so pissed right now. I spent all day fuc@#$% with this thing, the jeep is still on jack stands, dash torn apart, hands scraped up, mind blown, LC1 not working, wine not kicking in yet, can't take it much longer................

LC1 gets warm not hot..
Did you have an LC1 on your old jeep? Can you tell me wire for wire where you connected them?
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Last edited by Knuckles; 11-19-2012 at 06:19 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckles View Post
Did you have an LC1 on your old jeep? Can you tell me wire for wire where you connected them?
I am attaching a pic. Maybe my ground is no good. At first I was going to ground to the engine, but I did not want any extra wires floating around down there. So I grounded to the pic. It is under the plastic piece on the side of the dash. All my grounds are connected to one wire.

All the wires are connected as per drawings.

I am going to change the ground tomorrow. Then if that doesn't work I am going to hook the power and ground up to a cig plug, just like a LM1. If that doesn't work then it must be the LC1.
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rconner View Post
I am attaching a pic. Maybe my ground is no good. At first I was going to ground to the engine, but I did not want any extra wires floating around down there. So I grounded to the pic. It is under the plastic piece on the side of the dash. All my grounds are connected to one wire.

All the wires are connected as per drawings.

I am going to change the ground tomorrow. Then if that doesn't work I am going to hook the power and ground up to a cig plug, just like a LM1. If that doesn't work then it must be the LC1.
The ground looks fine as long as it was bare metal and no rust under that bolt you have there... I did the same on my WK1 and used a 10-12 gauge O ring crimp terminal and connected up (4) 16 guage black wires that were about 6" long for all my gorunds... You will also need to connect up the momentary switch and the Red LED so that you can to the calibration on the LC1.
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  #14  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Knuckles View Post
The ground looks fine as long as it was bare metal and no rust under that bolt you have there... I did the same on my WK1 and used a 10-12 gauge O ring crimp terminal and connected up (4) 16 guage black wires that were about 6" long for all my gorunds... You will also need to connect up the momentary switch and the Red LED so that you can to the calibration on the LC1.
Have the switch and the led hooked up. When I turn it on it takes about 15 seconds for the led to start blinking, about 1 second intervals, it never starts to blink fast for the automatic calibration. After waiting for about 3 minutes I will push the button and hold for 4 seconds,(no free air?) let go and it starts blinking again. I don't get it, followed the directions, I reset it every time I try something new ( by unplugging the sensor from the LC1, powering it up for 10 seconds, then turning it off, and reconnecting the sensor) and starting over again. For some reason it will not automatically calibrate itself. The guys at innovate state that it is not getting enough juice.

I have a LM1 that I am going to try tomorrow with my new sensor and my old one..

So you don't think its the ground?, there is no rust and it is in between the washer and the bolt head. It is making good contact..

Last edited by rconner; 11-19-2012 at 06:52 PM.
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  #15  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:16 PM
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Maybe I have the led hooked up wrong. Can anybody help..

Here is how I have is hooked up.



LED, two sides, anode(longer), Kathode(shorter). Wire soldered on to the Anode side connected to the black wire of the lc1. I have the momentary pushbutton switch(normally closed) soldered between the ground wire coming off the Kathode side.




AWE SHIT..... Looking at the pack I grabbed at radio shack of momentary switches, they are normally closed!!!

I thought they are supposed to be normally open?

I thought that is what I grabbed earlier.

Please somebody specify what kind I need to have.

Normally open or closed.

Thanks!
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  #16  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rconner View Post
Maybe I have the led hooked up wrong. Can anybody help..

Here is how I have is hooked up.



LED, two sides, anode(longer), Kathode(shorter). Wire soldered on to the Anode side connected to the black wire of the lc1. I have the momentary pushbutton switch(normally closed) soldered between the ground wire coming off the Kathode side.




AWE SHIT..... Looking at the pack I grabbed at radio shack of momentary switches, they are normally closed!!!

I thought they are supposed to be normally open?

I thought that is what I grabbed earlier.

Please somebody specify what kind I need to have.

Normally open or closed.

Thanks!
Your LC1 should have come with an Open Momentary switch.... With the car off..... Check it with your Meter and set it to Ohms and put your Red and black probe on each side of the switch to see of its open or is showing continuity( 0 Ohms)... The schematic says you need an Open switch so that when you push it it will be macking contact wioth ground..... Sounds like you have it connected correctly, but doing that test with your meter will tell us more...

Last edited by Knuckles; 11-19-2012 at 07:28 PM.
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  #17  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckles View Post
Your LC1 should have come with an Open Momentary switch.... With the car off..... Check it with your Meter and set it to Ohms and put your Red and black probe on each side of the switch to see of its open or is showing continuity( 0 Ohms)... The schematic says you need an Open switch so that when you push it it will be macking contact wioth ground.....

Long story short, for sanity sake, I am married, wife reorganized office, LC1 switch package missing, search for hour+ today, cuss, kick some shit, cuss some more, talk to innovate, go to radio shack, buy parts needed(mistakenly buy closed switch), proceed to present time.......

I will replace switch with open one tomorrow.

But still would this effect the 12 volt power problem? The sensor should still heat up properly??????????

BTW knuckles, thanks for all your help!!
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  #18  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rconner View Post
Long story short, for sanity sake, I am married, wife reorganized office, LC1 switch package missing, search for hour+ today, cuss, kick some shit, cuss some more, talk to innovate, go to radio shack, buy parts needed(mistakenly buy closed switch), proceed to present time.......

I will replace switch with open one tomorrow.

But still would this effect the 12 volt power problem? The sensor should still heat up properly??????????

BTW knuckles, thanks for all your help!!
Oh ok got ya.... Only thing I can think of is that the LC1 is stuck in calibration mode as its grounding out the calibration wire without even pushing the momentary switch.... Easiest thing to do is install the correct Open momentary switch and then go from there, so lets see what happens when you install it man... No worries as I like to help out with electrical gremlins as that is what I like to do

Last edited by Knuckles; 11-19-2012 at 07:44 PM.
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Knuckles View Post
Oh ok got ya.... Only thing I can think of is that the LC1 is stuck in calibration mode as its grounding out the calibration wire without even pushing the momentary switch.... Easiest thing to do is install the correct Open momentary switch and then go from there.... let see what happens when you install it man... No worries as I like to help out with electrical gremlins as that is what I like to do
You da man!! Thanks bro, I will let you know what is up tomorrow!!!!
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  #20  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:46 PM
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You da man!! Thanks bro, I will let you know what is up tomorrow!!!!
Cool keep me posted as I will be looking out for this thread!
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