WK2 SRT8 Troubleshooting / Problems Discussion / Dealer ServiceIf you are having some problems with your WK2 SRT8 and need assistance in troubleshooting and diagnosing the problem, this is the proper place to discuss it. Were you treated fairly or poorly at a dealer? Warranty issues? Let us know.
Do you know how to check your spark plugs? If so, pull the plugs on cyl. #3 and see what they look like? It'll be the second cylinder from the front on the drivers side.
Yes this, I would do it right away. Misfire codes on specific cylinders are not good most of the time. Could just be a bad plug or coil pack. Hope its just something random that caused it.
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2012 Super Bee Stinger Yellow: Catch Can, Airaid CAI, SLP Loudmouth catback
2009 Modern Blue GCSRT8: Borla S, 4" BWoody, JerseyBoy Tuned, BT catch can, MHP antenna, SRT door sills, Taillight Solutions rear fogs, QA1/Stage6 shocks, BWoody sway bar links, Eibachs, 8K HID's, LED interior
STOP DRIVING THE CAR UNTIL YOU CHECK THE PLUGS ON CYL. 3.......
If the plugs are fine then it may not be as catastrophic. Just so you know why I'm telling you this, my WK1 showed an identical code BECAUSE I blew my motor. And I don't mean I went down on it!
As for the rattling if its your valves then its because you removed the center muffler/resonator the big suit case one it frees up too much flow causing the valve to rattle. Did this on mine when I removed the center one then I went back to stock because I realized after 30 minutes I couldn't stand a loud exhaust anymore.
The H-pipe didn't seem to do much for evening out the flow I would've went with an x-pipe it quite possibly would've fixed it and allowed the flow to be more even and no more rattle (possibly). Right now you have too much flow out of one pipe than the other thus causing the rattle which was what mine was doing also.
Don't just go flushing money down the drain going back to stock, figure out what to put in before the valves to even out the flow, x-pipe? Smaller resonator? Maybe putting the stock suitcase muffler in the center back in and leaving the 2 rear one straight piped.
Damage on the electrode, closed gap of the electrode, dings and dents on the electrode. If it was a catastrophic misfire it will tear some piston skirting and possible chunks of cylinder walls off and the debris will be forced into the combustion chamber thus smashing into the spark plug electrodes in that particular cylinder. The chunks most likely will be spit out the exhaust valve. Although mine ended up in the intake manifold. Most likely due to the vacuum of the blower once I let off. I hope this helps and I hope you check that #3 just for safeties sake.
like tugboat, and others said check the plugs. look for a much larger gap than spec. check the tip of the plug for color, black/white.
also, if the car runs normal and isn't vibrating and shaking like crazy at idle, your computers are doing a good job compensating for the misfire and it's probably NOT a dead miss.
you'll be ok driving it to get it looked at somewhere. i wouldn't be throwing out the word catastrophic just because it's an isolated cylinder misfire.
like tugboat, and others said check the plugs. look for a much larger gap than spec. check the tip of the plug for color, black/white.
also, if the car runs normal and isn't vibrating and shaking like crazy at idle, your computers are doing a good job compensating for the misfire and it's probably NOT a dead miss.
you'll be ok driving it to get it looked at somewhere. i wouldn't be throwing out the word catastrophic just because it's an isolated cylinder misfire.
When I blew mine I regapped the plugs, threw them back in and it ran well enough that you could not even tell it had been blown. Sadly my bore scope camera showed otherwise. Power didn't even seem down after the ring land let go.
in all honesty, taking it in to the dealer for a scan would prolly be in your best interest(did i really just say that???) for roughly $100 or less youve got a much better chance of finding out what is ACTUALLY happening with the misfire as oppose to just throwing parts at it. definately not saying let the dealer do the repairs if necessary but they DO have the electronics to see a lot more detail about the issue than you and your trinity do...once youve got the issue identified, then we work on how to get you back to normal as cheaply as possible.
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2008 SRT8*Silver*CAI*Flowmaster*180 tstat*Catch Can*8000k HIDs HI/LOW/FOG*all LED interior*Custom audio*ToonaTooned!!!
in all honesty, taking it in to the dealer for a scan would prolly be in your best interest(did i really just say that???) for roughly $100 or less youve got a much better chance of finding out what is ACTUALLY happening with the misfire as oppose to just throwing parts at it. definately not saying let the dealer do the repairs if necessary but they DO have the electronics to see a lot more detail about the issue than you and your trinity do...once youve got the issue identified, then we work on how to get you back to normal as cheaply as possible.
Agree with jptaylor2, plus you should be able to avoid the diagnostic charge since your vehicle should (assuming have less than 36k on it) still be under warranty.
If he has a tune and he blew his engine there goes the warranty, buh-bye. Stay away from the dealer with that thing tuned and showing misfires. Time to pull your big boy pants up and learn how to diagnose what ya broke!
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