Had some time today to figure out a better washer tank solution. I've seen this coolant tank at the auto parts store before and figured I could make it work with some modding.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d..._-1&keyword=coolant+recovery+tank+-+universal
I bent the mounting tabs to the side some to make it fit. Used a hole saw, 1", and drilled a new port for the low fluid sensor. Then I drilled a new hole (27/64th) for the factory pump. Low fluid sensor is on the backside next to the driver headlight. Washer pump in located on the bottom of the tank. I used a couple zip ties just in case to hold the factory pump in place. But, the fitment is snug and takes some effort to pull the pump out. I thought about using an epoxy to mount the pump, but i want to keep it easily removable. Otherwise a new pump is around $80. You can't see the zip ties on the underside, so no one will know
The rest is pretty simple. Mark the location for the bracket and drill two small pilot holes for the mounting screws. Then screw the bracket in place. I used the factory washer pump wiring as it reaches the pump with a little extra length to spare. I used the bwoody harness with the low fluid sensor connector to reach the new location. The factory doesn't have enough length. Then just plug the washer lines back into the pump. Labeled "F" and "R" Front and Rear. The front line is the hard plastic, the rear is the flexible line.
The coolant tank as a nipple top and bottom that need to be plugged. I just used some of the supplied hose in the kit and bent it over on itself and zip tied it for now. The lower port isn't really seen. I'll figure something out for the top port to make it look cleaner. Transfer the factory washer cap over to the new tank. It fits, but is slightly larger then the supplied cap. It seems to stay on though. I used a zip tie for now to attach the cap to the bracket incase it falls off. I will make a cable for it later.
Here are the installed pics. Needs a couple finishing touches, but it works like OEM again. Simple to do, took me about an hour to figure it out. All the work can be done from the engine bay assuming your connections can be reached. I left mine easy to get to from when I first installed the bwoody.
Let me know what you guys think. I think it looks better than the bwoody setup. Now I got the bwoody, factory washer function, larger capacity, and better looks. Win Win in my book.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d..._-1&keyword=coolant+recovery+tank+-+universal
I bent the mounting tabs to the side some to make it fit. Used a hole saw, 1", and drilled a new port for the low fluid sensor. Then I drilled a new hole (27/64th) for the factory pump. Low fluid sensor is on the backside next to the driver headlight. Washer pump in located on the bottom of the tank. I used a couple zip ties just in case to hold the factory pump in place. But, the fitment is snug and takes some effort to pull the pump out. I thought about using an epoxy to mount the pump, but i want to keep it easily removable. Otherwise a new pump is around $80. You can't see the zip ties on the underside, so no one will know
The rest is pretty simple. Mark the location for the bracket and drill two small pilot holes for the mounting screws. Then screw the bracket in place. I used the factory washer pump wiring as it reaches the pump with a little extra length to spare. I used the bwoody harness with the low fluid sensor connector to reach the new location. The factory doesn't have enough length. Then just plug the washer lines back into the pump. Labeled "F" and "R" Front and Rear. The front line is the hard plastic, the rear is the flexible line.
The coolant tank as a nipple top and bottom that need to be plugged. I just used some of the supplied hose in the kit and bent it over on itself and zip tied it for now. The lower port isn't really seen. I'll figure something out for the top port to make it look cleaner. Transfer the factory washer cap over to the new tank. It fits, but is slightly larger then the supplied cap. It seems to stay on though. I used a zip tie for now to attach the cap to the bracket incase it falls off. I will make a cable for it later.
Here are the installed pics. Needs a couple finishing touches, but it works like OEM again. Simple to do, took me about an hour to figure it out. All the work can be done from the engine bay assuming your connections can be reached. I left mine easy to get to from when I first installed the bwoody.
Let me know what you guys think. I think it looks better than the bwoody setup. Now I got the bwoody, factory washer function, larger capacity, and better looks. Win Win in my book.