1. Keep the 20's. 22's might look good, but stand by to be very disappointed on the track, increase in unsprung weight, ridiculously low aspect ratio, you aren't going to hook whatsoever, and God help you if they're run flats. Ditch the gimmicky WK2 wheels and go with something classy and sharp, with a black chrome option similar to whats on the 300C. Forged one-piece aluminums from ALCOA, and factory 315 steamrollers on the back. NO RUN FLATS... all season Z-rated radials please from anyone but Goodyear.
2. Ceramic brake compound to eliminate the brake dust issue. Factory slotted rotors. Pick a brake caliper color and stick with it, switching from Black to red all the time is pointless.
3. Matte paint not going to happen, instead 6 standard colors is perfectly acceptbale. Black, White, Grey, Red, Blue, Silver... should make most everyone happy.
4. Instead of all these "chrome delete options" everyone is talking about, just resyle the 2014 and mute-out the Chrome. Nobody likes the Chromapalooza.
5. Pano Roof option should come standard with headrest LCD monitors, thats a no-brainer, shame on SRT for not doing this.
6. Engine, it better darn well tear the X5M a new azzhole in the 1/4 mile. S/C 392 with forged crank, forged rods (GET RID of those ridiculous powdered metal things), and Forged pistons with extra thickness in the first ring land. 8 quart oil capacity with the HD oil cooler you use on the Ram 1-tons. For the S/C, use a true twin-screw design, not the cheap roots blower you KNOW they're looking at from Eaton. Use a liquid-to-air intercooler and make sure you leave a LOT of room in the chin-intake for bigger heat exchanger units. High IAT's will really ruin your day during the hot weather testing. Target power needs to be 590hp/580tq at a very modest 7psi and 9.5:1 compression. Use the 8-speed thats coming but change out the pumpkins to 3:90:1 in order to get her down the track in under 12.5 E/T while maintaining CAFE standards.
7. Revise the factory exhaust, its ridiculous, just redo it and contract someone with more than half a brain stem from Borla if you can't seem to get it right. I have a piece of advice for you: DUAL CENTER EXHAUST (twin 5" rolled aluminum tips), with a THRU-BUMPER cutout for a Class III receiver.
8. Bigger NAV screen to keep the Ipad generation happy.
9. Manual rear diff lock button.
10. Transfer case unlock as a secondary function of "T/C off", i.e. a 2WD mode. I dont care how many yellow lights you have to flash on the display, we want a true 2WD mode for burnouts.
11. LAUNCH MODE. Yes, YOU CAN DO IT. Get rid of one of those dorky "snow mode" or whatever settings on the center cluster rheostat, and replace it with a launch mode. Here's my suggestion. A) Brake pedel, depress B) Shift the gear selector to full down to "L" for Launch. C) Center rheostat to "Launch Mode". D) Accelerator full down E) Brake release. When these steps occur, the truck uses a the factory PCM to limit (two step) revs to preset limit, while the TCM defaults to an ideal stall and line pressure, transfer case locks center differential, and rear electronic diff locks. Once it shifts out of 2nd gear, all launch-mode parameters default to normal tables and you are back in "D", even though the gear selector is in "L". Your target 60' in factory Launch mode should be at most 1.6 seconds.
12. Power folding mirrors
13. Heads-up display. If corvette could do it 10 years ago, something tells me you can muster the mustard.
14. PRICE.... Base MSRP of $58K, and that includes the NAV unit.