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T-stat upgrade - what, where, and how to

112K views 240 replies 91 participants last post by  Stimmel 
#1 · (Edited)
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Basically, a great truth to making power is "HEAT IS BAD". Any way you can rid your engine of the heat it produces will yield more power for a longer period. Lowering your thermostat's opening threshold via replacement with a lower-than-stock unit can help. Thermostat replacement is a BIG subject among all SRT8 model owners including all makes (Jeep, Chrysler, and Dodge). Much discussion regarding the various types and manufacturers has been hashed out. I've noticed several discussions on this site, but none that collected the information into a single, readily available post. Therefore, I decided to compile the most important information and slap on a pictorial "how-to". Maybe, it will help some of you who are sitting on the fence trying to decide what to do. I know I had similar questions the first time I performed this mod.


Where to buy and how to get what you want

There is a definite concensus that the Motorad (a.k.a. Valuecraft, Duralast) family of bypass t-stats are the best choice for upgrading the 5.7L and 6.1L HEMI. These products are solidly built, have a fail-safe feature (ensures full open position in the event of failure), and fit our motor. The Motorad 4127 (170 degree) and the 4128 (180 degree) are readily available and in stock at any AutoZone. In fact, you can order them online. Taking this "shopping list" to your preferred AutoZone ensures the monkey behind the counter does not argue with you and insist on looking up your vehicle. It will not pop up this way. If you just show up, then insist on a cross-reference search using "4127" or "4128" as the search criteria. Pick the only t-stat that shows up on the results. EDIT: Others are running the Jet 10183 (180-degree) t-stat. The pictures online show a non-bypass model, so I can't vouch for it. The claim here is a better fit with similar quality.




Why is a "bypass" thermostat important?

Bypass t-stats are a must for the long-term health of your motor. The pic below shows a bypass t-stat next to a non-bypass unit. Since the 5.7 and 6.1 HEMI motors use a bypass cooling system, a traditional non-bypass unit will allow hot coolant to bypass the radiator once the engine warms up. This can cause engine damage in the long run. For more information on this subject, please refer to this thread: http://www.are.com.au/feat/techt/thermostat.htm




Things to consider

1. Depending on your driving habits, a 170-degree t-stat may trigger a code due to the motor not warming to above 175 or so. The code will not cause any immediate problems; however, a minimum temperature threshold is set in the PCM for emissions compliance and to ensure flash-off of any moisture in the motor. Moisture can cause pitting of the metal among other things if left for very long periods. This is why a 180-degree t-stat is the most popular for daily drivers - the chance of throwing a code is greatly reduced.

2. The MotoRad t-stat is actually 0.5mm larger in diameter than the stocker. There has been a concern raised regarding the damage this may cause the rubber gasket. Although, I do not personally share this concern, you may be interested in shaving 0.25mm off the Motorad's metal flange to ensure an exact OEM fitment.

3. There are several who have experienced coolant leaks around the stock radiator cap after doing this mod - me included. You'll have to ask someone else why this is, because I don't know for sure. However, for $15 or so, you can also upgrade the radiator cap to a MotoRad 7718. It is a higher quality unit, and it is rated at 18# just like the stocker. It also features a safety pressure relief lever.


Replacement Instructions

1. Start with a cool engine!!!! Remove the air intake tube. Set aside.

2. Grab a 1/2" socket and remove the two bolts holding the bell housing and nipple.


3. Make sure you have a 1-gallon heavy-duty freezer bag to catch spillage as the bolts come out. Don't worry if you have a spill though, because there is plenty extra in the overflow reservoir to tolerate spilling most, if not all of it. NOTE: Coolant is toxic to all animals including dogs, cats, and humans. Be sure to clean up spills promptly and thoroughly.


4. Once you drain the coolant in the upper hose, push it aside to expose the OEM t-stat and red rubber gasket.


5. Use a medium flat screwdriver to gently pry the old unit out. Be careful to preserve the gasket. Also, be ready for a final gush a coolant from behind.



6. If you intend to grind the t-stat's metal flange down to 63mm exactly, then now is the time to do it. Next, transfer the rubber gasket to the new t-stat. Install the new t-stat taking care to orient the dog bone air bleeder to the top.


7. An unground Motorad t-stat is a tight fit, so a knife or thin screwdriver can help "shoe-horn" the gasket. Once the gasket is started, push with even pressure until the t-stat seats into the housing - it will not be flush and a little gasket will protrude beyond the machined face. This ensures a watertight seal.


8. Reverse the steps above, then pour the recovered coolant back into the overflow tank. Start the engine and let it warm up thoroughly. Rev the engine a few times to help dislodge any residual air. Note the reservoir level and add more coolant as needed.


credit: Meister (LXForums) for much of the technical data
 
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#3 · (Edited)
David,

I apologize for covering familiar ground. I did a search before posting and found this thread. http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8381 It has most of the same information, but it is not compiled up front in a cohesive manner. The intent of this thread was to provide novice modders a one stop post with plenty of pictures. I guess it might be interpretted as condescending or grandstanding to those well-versed at this sort of thing. That is absolutely not the intent.
 
#10 ·
#8 ·
Thanks bmartin. My Motorad 170 T-stat is sitting at home with my new radiator cap. Now I will get it done this weekend! As you said, I asked the guy for the part number at Autozone...he asked me my vehicle and I gave them the part number again. He started treating me like an idiot so I got his manager, got him in trouble...and then the manager found my part by the part number! Why are they like this???????
 
#12 ·
Thanks bmartin. My Motorad 170 T-stat is sitting at home with my new radiator cap. Now I will get it done this weekend! As you said, I asked the guy for the part number at Autozone...he asked me my vehicle and I gave them the part number again. He started treating me like an idiot so I got his manager, got him in trouble...and then the manager found my part by the part number! Why are they like this???????
A trained monkey is still just a monkey. ;)
 
#9 ·
I agree with Matt and Thanks go to bmartin.

I have had the thermostat for weeks, but since it does not have a gasket have been worried about the process.

Having seen it so well illustrated I now feel I can do it.
 
#11 ·
Excellent tech, nice to see you got rid of that LX and came over to the Jeep side and post some nice tech, we need more guys like you. :cool:

J
 
#17 ·
DO NOT force the 63.5mm MotoRad/Valucraft T-stats in, you need to file or bench grind off the excess material to get it down to the stock 63.0mm size. If you don't you will tear the gasket and it will eventually leak.
While I certainly understand what you are saying, I have to respectfully disagree. The t-stat is a tight fit as mentioned in the post. However, forcing it is not required. Just "shoe-horn" it in, and everything will be fine.

I ran my 06 Mag this way (as have many others) for 2 years without a problem.

Regards.
 
#18 ·
As a follow-up, 0.5mm difference is very little. In fact, 1mm is roughly the thickness of a dime. So imagine 1/4 the thickness of a dime added to the outside edge of the thermostat. It is just not very much, and it is readily accommodated by the rubber gasket without any threat of damage.

Of course, some will claim this is a problem, so grind away if you must. :)
 
#21 · (Edited)
That .5mm difference may not seem like a lot but it's certainly enough to tear the flimsy rubber gasket (it did on mine) which is enough to cause a leak. Thankfully mine let go in my own driveway (after a 2 hr drive believe it or not) as evidenced by the significant coolant trail left behind. Had it burst on the road there's a very good chance I wouldn't have noticed until damage to the cylinder heads due to overheating occured.

Good thread, good pics, good info. Just take the extra time to do it right, that's all.
 
#19 ·
Good job with the pics and instructions. I have yet to do this on my 08 and with your pics I think I can do it the right way.:)
 
#22 ·
Just to be clear on this, if we were to grind we would be grinding down the diameter of the T stat not the seat where it sits?
 
#28 ·
I did mine this morning before going to work.

Found the black rubber hanging off the old thermostat, I am very glad I caught it before it broke loose.

Used sand paper to grind down the new tstat in about 5 minutes. It was not going in without some reduction...

Thanks again for the great writeup...
 
#29 ·
Bmartin, I am on my work computer and can't see your pictures, about how much coolant comes out, so what size of a bag do I need. After work I am going straight to the shop to put my CAI on and want to do this at the same time. If I lose that fluid, will I have to get some more right away????
 
#30 · (Edited)
Sorry.... a one-gallon HEAVY DUTY freezer bag holds the spillage nicely. It will only get about half full, and the extra bag thickness will thwart most attempts by sharp edges to rip it open.

The overflow reservoir has plenty enough extra to tolerate spilling all of it without causing any problems.

Thanks for your comments - I've added a bit more clarification to the step-by-step.
 
#34 ·
Thanks again for your help....I should have it on tonite. I will try it first without grinding any down, if that becomes a pain then I will grind it some. I will let you know how it goes!
What's the good word? (Adam Sandler Goat reference)
 
#38 · (Edited)
So you actually shave down the outside of the rubber part to make it fit into the metal hole? Do you just shave little by little until it fits snug?
No! Shave a bit off the metal flange - 0.25mm to be exact. Good luck! :p


Clarification added to post #1.
 
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