Here you go guys. Here's a thread in which you're safe to ask any "dumb" performance question you may have without having to post a thread about it. Ultimately you can find out the answer using SEARCH but some people refuse. :lol: So here's your ask away and get out of jail free thread. Enjoy......
so whats the deal with these new rules regarding roll cages? Is it just stock cars faster than 11.49 dont need a cage now or all cars 2008 and newer dont need one until 10.00??
NHRA DRAGS: STREET LEGAL STYLE PRESENTED BY AAA (Page xiv) (5th paragraph)
Additionally Requirements and specifications for Street Legal are the same as
those for the Summit Racing Series with the following exception: Unaltered 2008
OEM model year and newer production cars running slower than 9.99 and 135
mph do not have to meet the requirements and specifications for the Summit
Racing Series except for the following: Convertibles and T-tops must meet
Summit Racing Series Roll Bar and Roll Cage requirements, All drivers must
meet the Summit Racing Series Helmet and Protective Clothing requirements.”
Basically says you need a cage once you go faster than a 9.99 or trap over 135mph IF your ride is newer than a 2008. I kinda think it's cool but kinda dumb at the same time. Our rides are the perfect example. There's no difference in builds from 06-10. Therefore if the 08-10 are good, so should the 06-07 models.
Well..... reading more on YellowBullet, it looks like you may be right Andy. It is meant for cars such as the GTR, 911 Twins, etc.... that can run 10's bone stock. They're saying even a K&N will change that then you have to "play by the rules". Still sounds kinda shitty to me though.
Is there such a thing as too low of a DA? I'm my mind it makes sense the lower the better but is there a point when DA could be too low or it be too cold outside to negatively affect performance? (within reason of course)
DA wise, no......the lower the better. But the colder the temps, the more difficult it is to get traction. Summer tires get as hard as hockey pucks in cold weather.... they don't flex to grab the pavement. Drag radials, and slicks can actually crack if driven on below 30*. The more power you make, the more of a problem this becomes.
Don't really know of any negative effects really. Only thing I could really think of off the top of my head would be a charging issue but most on here haven't had any issue from theirs. I ran one forever with no issue really. I have had more than the normal amount of batteries die but I believe I have an internal short somewhere that I've never been able to find.
I ran an undampered forever and now run an ATI dampered. I'm not 100% sure if I'm capable of answering this really but it won't hurt you to run either. If I had a built engine or different I'd lean towards a dampered just for F's sake.
Is Paramount Trans worth the extra 1000 over the SHR for a daily driver? Basically how violent is the shr as a daily driver and is it tolerable. I know Bills customer support is worth it alone but besides that, both fit my power needs.
Really man? Seriously? Stay out of this thread if you're going to be a jack ass in here. This thread is meant for people who want to ask a question about their ride and not get their heads bit off. Grow up man.
I see you're a PATS fan..... here's a question for ya...... When is the next time you guys are gonna win a Super Bowl?
Here you go. Go with the 13% Under drive pulley. There is a note though that you have to turn down the Outter Diameter of the stock washer to 1.850" though. No biggie for a machine shop if you have one local.
was leaning towards kooks,but with the price of installation I was thinking of going with stainless works? Is there any significant difference in the two? or would i just be paying more for the name? Im pretty sure HP/TQ would be minimal when comparing the two but is one made better then the other, vice versa?
also i know they make different sizes such as the 3/4 & 7/8 ? any significant difference? Is a certain size recommended depending on what you want to build?
and finally? Whats the big difference of there being Cats vs. no cats?
I thought id take advantage of the thread guys! THANKS in advance
was leaning towards kooks,but with the price of installation I was thinking of going with stainless works? Is there any significant difference in the two? or would i just be paying more for the name? Im pretty sure HP/TQ would be minimal when comparing the two but is one made better then the other, vice versa?
also i know they make different sizes such as the 3/4 & 7/8 ? any significant difference? Is a certain size recommended depending on what you want to build?
and finally? Whats the big difference of there being Cats vs. no cats?
I thought id take advantage of the thread guys! THANKS in advance
Only SW offers the two different sizes. Kooks only offers the 1 7/8". I personally think the quality of the Kooks may be a little better. I had quite a few welds on my SW's break causing annoying leaking.
The SW crossover pipe from drivers side to passenger side crosses over more at the back of the tranny pan vs. the middle of the pan like the Kooks. That was one of the reasons I went with SW's. That and the price.
As far as cats..... do you want you Jeep to stink or not? It'll be a bit louder without the cats and it'll smell like raw unburnt gas. I have kids and taking them to school was a PITA. I'd burn every teachers eyes pulling into car line. :lol:
If you're going to do more stuff to your engine/mods down the road, I'd think about the larger size if you go with SW. Good luck man. Oh...... and just use factory gaskets with it. If you have high milage, maybe order some new header bolts too for the install.
i currently have UD pulley installed in the jeep & will be installing a system... will i have any problems with the battery or alternator since i will be getting all that extra juice for my amps!!!??
Probably not but maybe. You definitely will want a cap for the amps. My radar detec. would show my volt level and usually it's around 14V. When I had the system cranked and kickin', it would drop down to 11.8-12.2 usually. I didn't run a cap though fyi.
I am just looking for a boost in Horsepower. Raw power. tuners are looking at around 30 hp increase. is that the highest or is there another way to get more horsepower and torque. like a superchip or something. Im in need of more speed.
Your not going to get fast for cheap bud. A tuner with a Good Custom tune from someone is going to get you the most gains for the smallest chunk of change. Next depending on your goals would be a Head/Cam combo or a supercharger, but then you are starting the snowball effect of Mods. Supercharger over time is going to cause you to need a Trans at the minium unless you drive like Mrs Daisy.
You could always go with nitrous but a good setup is no small sum of money.
All depends on your end goal bro. Tuner and a good custom tune is a great square one.
Trinity is the top of the line. It has all the bells and whistles as well as being able to record to analog inputs(i.e. AFR, EGT, ETC) This is what I use and would recommend.
Then get a good custom tune from Johan diablotoona@gmail.com, Jerseyboy PM him (But he is swamped with work so he may not take you), AJ Hemituner PM him. They will send you a tune and then you can datalog and the will revise the tune until it is perfect. All 3 guys know there stuff.
Tuner and a custom tune will definitely be a good start. It's not just horsepower, but shift quality and making sure the jeep is dialed in. Trust me it makes a difference
With the power of a S/C or turbo won't we go faster all around with a smaller
gear than the 3.73? I'd like more top end and can afford to lose some bottom.
What about a 3.30 something?
Damn, I'm thinking half the owners would love a 3.30 gear set. That'd drop
your 3000rpm@80mph to 2400. Not sure how it'd affect the stock jeep 1/4,
The engineers must have tried all this......right.
Damn, I'm thinking half the owners would love a 3.30 gear set. That'd drop your 3000rpm@80mph to 2400. Not sure how it'd affect the stock jeep 1/4,
The engineers must have tried all this......right.
I just got heads, cam and headers installed with a AEM air/fuel gauge...truck drives very strong im loving the new power...just one question, after doing some 0-60 runs or some highway pulls after i let off the gas it goes really lean and revs stay high the gauge goes red and i get no reading for a second or two then goes back to normal on its own or it responds right away if i tap the gas...ive heard its normal but want to make sure im not damaging anything? Thanks
Mine does it to bud it is fine. Its just from the bigger increas in flow of air. Your tuner will be able to make it less noticeable but it will still happen!! Keep on rippin.
And Chad hit it on the nose in post 52. Injectors cut for a short period to help save fuel so it will go lean then everything will kick back on and start running normal.
I had the same concern you did but with the reassurance of Jboy and many runs later she is still running strong.
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