I was wondering if anyone knew whether or not an HID conversion kit is available for our fog lights. So far I have only seen the option for the HI's and Lo's (9005 & 9006).

does anyone have any links to HID convertion kits for our main lights as well as our fogs? or info would be nice.. :)

xenonking

hid-sin

xtralights

xenondepot

visionbulbs

It wouldn't let me type in the full web address but you know what comes before and after...

Take your pick. It doesn't seem like they have an option for 9145, which is our fog lights, but I have read several times that people have HID's in their fogs for our srt-8's, so I am quite confused...

looks cool, thanks for the tips.

Has anyone ever done one of these kits before, If so how does it look? As good as a bmw's hids look? Or can they never look that good?

Just wondering if they are worth the money or not?
Any thoughts would be great.

Nothing beats that look of your headlights changing colors as you're driving down a dark road. some cars look like they have great hid's and others look kinda cheesEEEEE...

looks cool, thanks for the tips.

Has anyone ever done one of these kits before, If so how does it look? As good as a bmw's hids look? Or can they never look that good?

Just wondering if they are worth the money or not?
Any thoughts would be great.

Nothing beats that look of your headlights changing colors as you're driving down a dark road. some cars look like they have great hid's and others look kinda cheesEEEEE...

Not so easy as it seems,

I tried an HID kit, with the correct bulb fitment, but the multiplex wiring system won`t fire it.
Seems to be a constant 10.5 volts accross the bulb, which makes the HID unit whistle, but when the full 12v is applied, it won`t fire !

have settled for a set of upgraded halogen bulbs, and fitted the HID kit to my sons Subaru !!

Same problem here. I had a local stereo shop use a relay to wire up my HIDs for the lows, the 10.5 volt switched the HIDs on. The fogs are H7, so any kit should work. I snipped the little tab on the igniter for the fogs and plugged the wiring harness directly into the igniter box. I am running 6000k for both fog and lows, MTEC kits.


Not so easy as it seems,

I tried an HID kit, with the correct bulb fitment, but the multiplex wiring system won`t fire it.
Seems to be a constant 10.5 volts accross the bulb, which makes the HID unit whistle, but when the full 12v is applied, it won`t fire !

have settled for a set of upgraded halogen bulbs, and fitted the HID kit to my sons Subaru !!

SRT8jkt,

Can you please share some pics of your jeep with the hids on?? Sounds like it looks great, I love to see some pics of that baby at night if you have any?

Same problem here. I had a local stereo shop use a relay to wire up my HIDs for the lows, the 10.5 volt switched the HIDs on. The fogs are H7, so any kit should work. I snipped the little tab on the igniter for the fogs and plugged the wiring harness directly into the igniter box. I am running 6000k for both fog and lows, MTEC kits.
H7 is a low beam bulb commonly used in german headlights... our fog lamps use an H10 bulb (a.k.a 9145).
________
DevilishMistress (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/cam/DevilishMistress/)

My mistake...you are correct.

H7 is a low beam bulb commonly used in german headlights... our fog lamps use an H10 bulb (a.k.a 9145).

I have XenonDepot's 6000 kit for my low beams and silverstars for my high beams. It is a night/day difference from stock....really looks great and produces great lighting.

Pardon the un-informed, BUT can anyone (Srt8jkt, 1268) shed some light on the 10.5V vs. 12V issue? What is the proverbial “dilio”? How does one from the dark ages deal with it?

These guys have a kit for the 9145. Not sure about quality, but they have one.

http://www.xtralights.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=152

Derek

I have picked up a few from them. First class operation and a very good product.

1268 want to take this one? I had a stereo shop wire mine up and my explantion will on confuse you.:o



Pardon the un-informed, BUT can anyone (Srt8jkt, 1268) shed some light on the 10.5V vs. 12V issue? What is the proverbial “dilio”? How does one from the dark ages deal with it?

1268 want to take this one? I had a stereo shop wire mine up and my explantion will on confuse you.:o

Our mechanic did mine (with a little help from me) and it is a plug/play setup and I have had absolutely no issues what so ever. Be careful where you buy it from is my only advice. I really have no clue on the wiring issue. XenonDepot is where I got mine. I do recall one of their faq's dealt with voltage and how there ballast produced a consistent level.

Do the HIDs run hotter or colder then stock bulbs???

I'd like HIDs but if they run hotter I'd be concerned about thermal damage since I have 40mil clear film on my headlights.

much colder!
________
Web shows (http://livesexwebshows.com/)

much colder!

Yep...I believe at a lower voltage as well.

Yep...I believe at a lower voltage as well.
well the running wattage is lower, only 35 compared to 55 ...but the voltage sent to the bulb at ignition is actually a couple thousand times higher! :eek:
________
Naughty_woman (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/cam/Naughty_woman/)

well the running wattage is lower, only 35 compared to 55 ...but the voltage sent to the bulb at ignition is actually a couple thousand times higher! :eek:

Got me...I meant the wattage! Volts/wattage...it's all the same to me.:rolleyes:

I will when I get my ride back.

SRT8jkt,

Can you please share some pics of your jeep with the hids on?? Sounds like it looks great, I love to see some pics of that baby at night if you have any?

Anyone tried or have pictures of xenondepot's 3000K HID conversion kit for the fogs?

Posted this in another thread but it should help with the 10.5v vs. 12v issue:

I am installing a HID system on my girlfriend's Laredo and I am having the same flickering problems that was mentioned above. As for the battery going dead, I fell this may be an unrelated problem, because the car shuts off all power to the headlamp circuitry after a maximum of 90 secs. Try getting a multimeter that can read at least 10 or 20 amps. Make sure the car is off and disconnect one of the battery cables. Now place one end of the meter on the now disconnected battery terminal and the second on the cable that you removed. Anything above 1amp would drain your battery over time. Now try the same test with the ballasts of the HID system disconnected. Wait at least a few mins for the car to be compltely off and see what you read. If you get the same reading, you may have a weak battery or there is something else that is draining your battery. If the reading changes substantially, you have likely wired something drastically wrong in the HID system, though I can't imageine what it would be.

Moving on, those flickers are caused by a low current 12v signal that the vehicle puts through the bulb even when the lights are off completely. This will help the ECM recognize when a bulb is burnt out. To test this you can hook back up one standard bulb on one side and leave the HID on the other. With the lights shut off, the standard bulb will not light, but the HID may flicker occasionally. This is bad, very very bad, for the HID system! It will burn it out in months.

I think a relay will fix the problem, I am not sure if each side needs a relay, but thats how I am going to wire it. To accomplish this, from the stock headlight wiring you have two wires, one of these will go to pin 86 on the relay and the other to pin 85. Doesn't matter which goes where because this is a simple coil that drives the relay and it doesn't care. Next, run new power cables from the battery to pin 87 on the relay (Make sure to fuse this close to the battery 15 or 20 amps per side will be plenty and will prevent a fire). Pin 30 will now go to the + supply on your HID system, usually red or anything but black, but check the wiring diagram first!! Finally connect the - of the HID system to a solid vehicle ground. I would recomend using at least a #12 wire for everything to ensure you have enough supply current w/o heating.

This should trick the system into thinking there is a good bulb, the relay's coil will provide about 100ohms of resistance, not as low as a real headlight, but better than the high impedence of looking into a HID ballast.

Final thought, it would be wise to disable the AUTO headlight mode, because this mode turns the lights on and off throughout the day and also can keep them on while the vehicle is starting. All of these conditions are bad for HID ballasts.

Oh also if you have a Canadian version or any other version that has been modified to use daytime running lamps, this must be disabled. This involves a quick free trip to the dealer to set the correct country code in the ecm. If the DRL circuitry is activated, it provides 5-9 volts to the lamps during the day which would mean dim driving lights, but with a HID system it means a hot and burnt out ballast.

I will try to post my results tomorrow, that ran a little long, but I hope it helps out a bit!

-Mike