idealrides
08-21-2006, 04:34 PM
hey guys, let me know what you think of this, I thought it would be nice to have one central concise source for info that itsn't obvious to someone who just got their hands on a Jeep SRT8. Looking forward to revisions/additions from everybody.
Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 Performance Manual
Manual Shifting
If you are using the transmission in manual mode while driving normally" (i.e. less than wide-open-throttle) and perform an upshift at relatively high RPM while accelerating, and furthermore do not wish to continue accelerating after the upshift, you shift induce the upshift by moving the gear selector right and then releasing it BEFORE immediately releasing the gas pedal. This will make the shift smoother and feel more like a manual transmission.
Race Shifting
For maximum performance, you should always leave the transmission in "D" except when you are already cruising at a given speed and wish to begin accelerating without waiting for the transmission to downshift. In this case, you should manually place the transmission in the lowest gear possible before applying wide-open-throttle by holding the gear selector to the left for 1 second. If you continue to accelerate in this lowest-gear-possible (most likely 2nd or 3rd gear depending on your speed) then once you reach redline the car will hold this gear and will not upshift. Therefore it is advisable that - after applying WOT and well before reaching redline - you should hold the gear selector to the right (upshift position) for at least 1 second, thereby returning to "D" mode, so that the transmission can upshift when necessary. You may elect to perform the upshift manually however chances are that you will do it too soon (which isn't harmful but leaves you with less than optimum torque after upshifting) or too late in which case you will hit redline stay there without an upshift.
ESP System
The electronic stability system can be partially disabled by momentarily pressing the ESP button located below the climate controls. This will mode will allow the vehicle to oversteer ("fishtail") and understeer ("plow") which may be desireable during high performance driving. However in this mode the torque management functions will still be active, so that the engine power will be reduced in the event of partial wheel slippage. In order to completely disable the ESP system including torque management, you will need to remove the underhood fuse labeled "ABS PUMP". Removing the fuse will also function to disable anti-lock brakes. You should use extreme caution when operating your vehicle in this state. To reactivate the ESP and ABS systems, with the ignition off simply replace the ABS PUMP fuse, start the engine and begin driving. The ABS and ESP warning lights will then disappear momentarily.
If disabling and enabling the ESP/ABS system is something you wish to be able to do quickly and easily without getting out of the driver's seat, a well designed switch kit is available from GS Motorsports (www.gsmotorsports.com (http://www.gsmotorsports.com)) which also gives you the ability to force the engine's radiator fan to run, keeping engine temperatures as low as possible.
Rear-Wheel-Drive mode
By physically unplugging the electrical harness connector feeding the Jeep's all-wheel-drive transfer case (located next to the fuel tank in the center of the undercarriage) the transfer case will no longer send any power to the front axle, it's essentially a rear-wheel-drive mode. In this configuration you may notice increased throttle response. This configuration is useful for performing a dyno-test using a two-wheel dynamometer (or for doing a burnout). The ESP system still works well for stability control and everyday driving. After reconnecting the electrical harness, the "Service AWD System" message will no longer be displayed in the Information Center.
Engine Modifications
There are only two basic engine modifications widely available on the market, a "cold-air" intake kit and cat-back exhaust system, and both are available from aftermarket companies as well as from Mopar Performance. Testing has shown that some of these systems may offer mild horsepower increase, but they're more effective for their visual and audible improvements. If you are looking for a serious power increase, there are three options. The first two options are a forced induction system, either a supercharger system from GS Motorsports or a turbocharger system from Hennessey Motorsports (www.hennesseyperformance.com) (http://www.hennesseyperformance.com%29). The third option is a 7.0 liter overhaul package from Power Ported Performance (performance@powerported.com).
Audio System Modifications
The factory stereo system was designed by BostonAcoustics and includes a trunk mounted 6-channel amplifier and paper-cone speakers. If you want to make a mild sound quality improvement, you can replace the factory speakers (3.5" dash tweeters, 6x9" front door woofers, and 6.5" rear door full-range speakers) with higher-quality aftermarket speakers.
For a significant improvement to sound quality and volume you will also need to install an additional aftermarket amplifier using a line-output converter connected to the speaker outputs on the factory amp. Such amplifiers can be installed under the front seats if they are compact, otherwise the recessed storage compartment in the floor of the trunk is an ideal location.
Rear Fog Light Modification (by Untouchable)
European laws require all cars to have rear fog lights and since the Jeep SRT8 shares the same bumper for American and Export models, our Jeeps are equipped with these lights, however they won't workunless you follow these directions to connect them as auxiliary running lights or turn/brake lights.
1. Buy a standard 4 pin trailer harness, available from most auto parts stores. Connect to 4 pin trailer plug located behind the rear bumper.
2. Crawl under cold car (hot tailpipes are not fun) and you will see the wires for the fog lights going into a harness. On peeling back the wires coming out of the fog lights you will see that one is black and the other is red/green.
3. Both fog lights are WIRED TOGETHER from the factory so if you want them to be auxiliary turn signal/brake lights you have to split the circuit. When you peel back the loom at the driver's side fog light you will see one large green/red wire splitting into two smaller red/green wires. These smaller wires then go to the respective fog lights. Both grounds are also right there (the two black wires).
4. Connect the YELLOW wire from the trailer harness to the wire going to the driver side light (simply trace it for a few inches) with a butt splice or a crimp-snap. After connecting it, cut it from the harness so that the larger red/green wire remains connected only to the other smaller wire going to the passenger side fog light.
5. Connect the GREEN wire from the trailer harness to the remaining red/green wire in a similar fashion. You have now isolated the circuits. (A common mistake is to not split the wires and then you will have both lights blinking when you hit either turn signal.
6. Now take the WHITE wire from the trailer harness and attach it to EITHER of the thin black ground wires that come from the fogs. they are right next to the red/green wire. You only need to connect one ground wire (not two).
You are done. This install keeps all loose wire to a minimun with no need for crazy lengths of wire running around the back of the jeep. Simply cut the remaining brown wire and tape it off. You have 3 wires running cleanly together to one point. Cover with loom and tape/zip tie off.
7. TO USE AS RUNNING LIGHTS, simply connect the BROWN wire to EITHER red/green wire and connect WHITE to either ground wire in a similar fashion. Loom up and zip tie. Done.
8. TO USE AS REVERSE LIGHTS, follow step 7 except you will need to connect either of the red/green wires to PIN 3 of the large rectangular connector harness.
________
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Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 Performance Manual
Manual Shifting
If you are using the transmission in manual mode while driving normally" (i.e. less than wide-open-throttle) and perform an upshift at relatively high RPM while accelerating, and furthermore do not wish to continue accelerating after the upshift, you shift induce the upshift by moving the gear selector right and then releasing it BEFORE immediately releasing the gas pedal. This will make the shift smoother and feel more like a manual transmission.
Race Shifting
For maximum performance, you should always leave the transmission in "D" except when you are already cruising at a given speed and wish to begin accelerating without waiting for the transmission to downshift. In this case, you should manually place the transmission in the lowest gear possible before applying wide-open-throttle by holding the gear selector to the left for 1 second. If you continue to accelerate in this lowest-gear-possible (most likely 2nd or 3rd gear depending on your speed) then once you reach redline the car will hold this gear and will not upshift. Therefore it is advisable that - after applying WOT and well before reaching redline - you should hold the gear selector to the right (upshift position) for at least 1 second, thereby returning to "D" mode, so that the transmission can upshift when necessary. You may elect to perform the upshift manually however chances are that you will do it too soon (which isn't harmful but leaves you with less than optimum torque after upshifting) or too late in which case you will hit redline stay there without an upshift.
ESP System
The electronic stability system can be partially disabled by momentarily pressing the ESP button located below the climate controls. This will mode will allow the vehicle to oversteer ("fishtail") and understeer ("plow") which may be desireable during high performance driving. However in this mode the torque management functions will still be active, so that the engine power will be reduced in the event of partial wheel slippage. In order to completely disable the ESP system including torque management, you will need to remove the underhood fuse labeled "ABS PUMP". Removing the fuse will also function to disable anti-lock brakes. You should use extreme caution when operating your vehicle in this state. To reactivate the ESP and ABS systems, with the ignition off simply replace the ABS PUMP fuse, start the engine and begin driving. The ABS and ESP warning lights will then disappear momentarily.
If disabling and enabling the ESP/ABS system is something you wish to be able to do quickly and easily without getting out of the driver's seat, a well designed switch kit is available from GS Motorsports (www.gsmotorsports.com (http://www.gsmotorsports.com)) which also gives you the ability to force the engine's radiator fan to run, keeping engine temperatures as low as possible.
Rear-Wheel-Drive mode
By physically unplugging the electrical harness connector feeding the Jeep's all-wheel-drive transfer case (located next to the fuel tank in the center of the undercarriage) the transfer case will no longer send any power to the front axle, it's essentially a rear-wheel-drive mode. In this configuration you may notice increased throttle response. This configuration is useful for performing a dyno-test using a two-wheel dynamometer (or for doing a burnout). The ESP system still works well for stability control and everyday driving. After reconnecting the electrical harness, the "Service AWD System" message will no longer be displayed in the Information Center.
Engine Modifications
There are only two basic engine modifications widely available on the market, a "cold-air" intake kit and cat-back exhaust system, and both are available from aftermarket companies as well as from Mopar Performance. Testing has shown that some of these systems may offer mild horsepower increase, but they're more effective for their visual and audible improvements. If you are looking for a serious power increase, there are three options. The first two options are a forced induction system, either a supercharger system from GS Motorsports or a turbocharger system from Hennessey Motorsports (www.hennesseyperformance.com) (http://www.hennesseyperformance.com%29). The third option is a 7.0 liter overhaul package from Power Ported Performance (performance@powerported.com).
Audio System Modifications
The factory stereo system was designed by BostonAcoustics and includes a trunk mounted 6-channel amplifier and paper-cone speakers. If you want to make a mild sound quality improvement, you can replace the factory speakers (3.5" dash tweeters, 6x9" front door woofers, and 6.5" rear door full-range speakers) with higher-quality aftermarket speakers.
For a significant improvement to sound quality and volume you will also need to install an additional aftermarket amplifier using a line-output converter connected to the speaker outputs on the factory amp. Such amplifiers can be installed under the front seats if they are compact, otherwise the recessed storage compartment in the floor of the trunk is an ideal location.
Rear Fog Light Modification (by Untouchable)
European laws require all cars to have rear fog lights and since the Jeep SRT8 shares the same bumper for American and Export models, our Jeeps are equipped with these lights, however they won't workunless you follow these directions to connect them as auxiliary running lights or turn/brake lights.
1. Buy a standard 4 pin trailer harness, available from most auto parts stores. Connect to 4 pin trailer plug located behind the rear bumper.
2. Crawl under cold car (hot tailpipes are not fun) and you will see the wires for the fog lights going into a harness. On peeling back the wires coming out of the fog lights you will see that one is black and the other is red/green.
3. Both fog lights are WIRED TOGETHER from the factory so if you want them to be auxiliary turn signal/brake lights you have to split the circuit. When you peel back the loom at the driver's side fog light you will see one large green/red wire splitting into two smaller red/green wires. These smaller wires then go to the respective fog lights. Both grounds are also right there (the two black wires).
4. Connect the YELLOW wire from the trailer harness to the wire going to the driver side light (simply trace it for a few inches) with a butt splice or a crimp-snap. After connecting it, cut it from the harness so that the larger red/green wire remains connected only to the other smaller wire going to the passenger side fog light.
5. Connect the GREEN wire from the trailer harness to the remaining red/green wire in a similar fashion. You have now isolated the circuits. (A common mistake is to not split the wires and then you will have both lights blinking when you hit either turn signal.
6. Now take the WHITE wire from the trailer harness and attach it to EITHER of the thin black ground wires that come from the fogs. they are right next to the red/green wire. You only need to connect one ground wire (not two).
You are done. This install keeps all loose wire to a minimun with no need for crazy lengths of wire running around the back of the jeep. Simply cut the remaining brown wire and tape it off. You have 3 wires running cleanly together to one point. Cover with loom and tape/zip tie off.
7. TO USE AS RUNNING LIGHTS, simply connect the BROWN wire to EITHER red/green wire and connect WHITE to either ground wire in a similar fashion. Loom up and zip tie. Done.
8. TO USE AS REVERSE LIGHTS, follow step 7 except you will need to connect either of the red/green wires to PIN 3 of the large rectangular connector harness.
________
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