I replaced my (2) front 3.5 boston acoustics speakers with a good pair of Memphis Audio 3.5's with built in tweeters (http://memphiscaraudio.com/products/details.asp?id=86). Man that really brought out the highs in the car. It sounds much better for less than $75.

Now here is the more expensive part...:(

I also added a Memphis Audio 500D amp (http://memphiscaraudio.com/products/details.asp?id=24) and 2 Kicker 10's with a removable box. I will try to get pics tommorrow. Really nothing to show off b/c I wanted something removable, but sure sounds great. I mounted the amp under the front seat, the bass control knob in the middle console.

http://image.bizrate.com/resize?sq=400&uid=451523488

Did you see if the tweeters are 2 ohm or 4 ohm?

Please post those pictures!
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That upgrade looks great! I am ordering the 15-PRC3's. I found them here:

WoofersEtc.com (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=page.display&page_id=14&mfg_account_ID=44&category_id=9)

I am just going to get a compact powered sub for mounting on the floor of the back seat. I am sure yours will sound better though.

A couple of questions:
1. Were the speakers hard to install?
2. What can you use to turn on the amp? Is there a radio turn on lead some place or did you just use ignition?

Did you see if the tweeters are 2 ohm or 4 ohm?

Please post those pictures!

4 ohm I believe. I will check tommorrow.

That upgrade looks great! I am ordering the 15-PRC3's. I found them here:

WoofersEtc.com (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=page.display&page_id=14&mfg_account_ID=44&category_id=9)

I am just going to get a compact powered sub for mounting on the floor of the back seat. I am sure yours will sound better though.

A couple of questions:
1. Were the speakers hard to install?
2. What can you use to turn on the amp? Is there a radio turn on lead some place or did you just use ignition?

My buddy owns a stereo shop so I let him wire the amp. Looked very easy. He ran the power wire through the grommet near the steering column. Not sure which wire they tied into for ACC power, but most likely just an ACC lead, not a radio on lead. I did not want them pulling my entire dash apart. I installed the front two speakers. Pop the speaker covers straight up, then 2 phillips screws, very easy. Then just splice the wires to the new female ends before attaching to each speaker. Positive and Negative are represented by a dark and light green strip on each wire.

I received and installed the Memphis Audio 15-PRC3's in the dash tonight. They sound much better with more highs and a clearer all around sound. The box said they were 4 ohm, but I could not notice any difference in volume from the factory 2 ohm units (this has been a discussion in another thread).

Just a few tips for anyone else who is doing this. The factory service manual says to disconnect the negative battery cable and don't do anything for two minutes, so I followed this direction (for accidental air bag deployment).

The grille panels are quite difficult to remove. Start on the outside edge of the dash (closest to the door) and there is a ledge about an inch below the dash. Push this up first with your fingers. You don't have to remove the window pillar trim. Second, work counter clockwise around on the driver side, clockwise around on the passenger. I had to use a hook tool, picture attached, to get the second clip up (it was really tight on both sides). The next two now should be easier and you can get them with your fingers. The last one, I had to put a large blade screwdriver under the grill in the back corner. Do not use a screwdriver or putty knife for the first four clips or you will mar the dash plastic. When all is loose, you knd of twist it out.

I used a 1/4" ratchet with a 9/32" six point socket to remove the speakers. Cut the clips off the wires with a side cutter. The gray/orange wire is the positive on the driver side and the gray/dark green is on the passenger side. The positive terminal on the speakers is the wide one. I just used standard female spade solder-less connectors.

Hope this helps for others that are planning to do this!

Do you have a picture of the dash mount speaker locations? Was the 3.5" speaker a tight fit (do you think I could squeeze a 4" midrange in their)?

Do you have a picture of the dash mount speaker locations? Was the 3.5" speaker a tight fit (do you think I could squeeze a 4" midrange in their)?

Pretty tight fit. I recommend and plan on upgrading the door speakers as well as most of the highs are in the front of the car now. I am sure you can squeeze 4's in there, but I would just make up for it with good door components.

Thinking of POSSIBLY trying out a 3-way active setup with 7-8" in the door and 3.5-4" mids & tweets on the dash. Gotta get the damn car first though lol.

I believe the front door speakers only get a bass signal. freak told me that. If anybody knows different, I would like to know.

I put the CDT Audio ES600 6 3/4 inch in the doors. Had to fabricate a 6x9 adapter plate.

The 15-PRC3's 3.5's fit in the dash and still seemed to have a little depth clearance. I think 4's would be a squeeze, but maybe they would fit. I did not measure the hole diameter.

For the amount they cost, 15-PRC3's sound great, a big improvement over the originals.

Just FYI for anyone wiring up an additional ampflier... on the mini fusebox under the steering wheel (above the hood release handle behind a hinged cover) there is a fuse on the bottom left, basically the fuse closest to the left front tire. If you tap this connection using a mini-add-a-fuse or just stick a wire in the contact and replace the fuse, it is perfect for powering the remote turn on lead of an amplifier as this circuit remains energized like the headunit after you shut off the ignition and until you open a door.

Do not tap the fuse on the top left, which supplies 30 amps to the factory amplifer, as this circuit is not ignition switched.
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DevilishMistress (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/cam/DevilishMistress/)

finishing mine up today I am no installer or fabricator and my woodworking skills are piss poor to say the least. Took me 3 months to build a sub box I too wanted it to be removable so it not custom fit or anything just some nice angles and 3 JL 10w6v2's. I had a prefab box with 2 10's but it looked like crap.

I went with JL components in all the doors, ZR series in the front and XR series in the back. no fitments issues had to use a piece of MDNF to make a speaker plate.

Amps are JL audio 450/4 for the components and 1000/1 for the subs. I had a 300/2 running the fronts and using deck power for the rears and had a 500/1 running the 2 10's originally but the upgrade bug bit hard. It has been a long painful process and I would most definitely pay some one in the future to install amps and build a box. I'm happy it's almost done. Pics to follow but my brother took my digi cam to vancouver mountain biking so not sure if it will come back in one piece.

edit: its is very contridictory to the title of this thread as none of the stuff was cheap, well at least not to me.

Jeff, sounds like the upgrade bug didn't bite you, it ate your arm. Thats a great set of hardware you put together, where did you fit those amps??
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the amps are in that weird (useless) recession in the rear. I had to do some minamal cutting to make the bottom flat but both amps fit in also had to build a custom cover as the old one will not fit on anymore. I may have a local stereo shop make a nice cover with a JL logo on it or something, thet is way out of the range of my skill set.

here is a pic of the 300/2 and 500/1 they are mounted vertical the 450/4 and 1000/1 were too long to mout that way so they are horizonal...

http://www.digistash.com/data/e0ab531ec312161511493b002f9be2ee/full_1842_p110731.jpg
also the stock cover fit....
http://www.digistash.com/data/e0ab531ec312161511493b002f9be2ee/full_1842_p110730.jpg

the reason for all the HEMI orange speaker wire, the box must be removable so I intalled this cable terminal so when the box is out I don't have live wires laying around.
http://www.digistash.com/data/e0ab531ec312161511493b002f9be2ee/full_1842_p110729.jpg

idealrides, thanks for the tip on the power tap. That will be perfect to turn on my future amplified sub. Also, I agree with your assessment of Jeff.

Jeff, your system looks great. I don't know if I could do something like that, it probably was a lot of work. Must sound awesome, though, I wish I could hear it. Excellent example of what can be done!

I need to get pics of the new set up the 3 10w6v2's with the 1000/1 is the most ridiculous thing I have ever felt, its like getting kicked in the ribs when the bass hits, and I don't really listen to rap. I had to cut the bottom of the plastic tray in that pic completly out to mount the new amps, I just carpeted it. Also the factory "storage area cover" no longer fit. I used a piece of masionite and carpeted that grey looks factory. Pics to follow I promise. Way beyond overkill.....I love it!!! :D

If you tap this connection using a mini-add-a-fuse or just stick a wire in the contact and replace the fuse, it is perfect for powering the remote turn on lead of an amplifier as this circuit remains energized like the headunit after you shut off the ignition and until you open a door.

I have never heard of a mini-add-a-fuse, but one is shown here:

mini-add-a-fuse (http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132654&page=6)

Very ingenious and great when you need a fused power tap!

Does anyone know what is the easiest way to get a wire run to the rear cargo area?