I bought a 4 pin trailer-side wiring harness from Wal-Mart ($4.22) and wired the left side rear fog light to the left wire on the harness and the right rear fog light to the right wire on the harness using butt connectors. Then I wired both rear fog lights to the common ground. The fourth wire is not used. Then I just plugged the harness into the trailer wiring under the rear bumper just left of the exhaust tips. The rear fog lights now work as extra brake lights and extra turn signals. I had the wire laying around so it was an extremely cheap upgrade!

nice work. pics?

I don't know if pics of the wiring will be useful, it will probably look confusing. I will try to make a video of the lights in action, though, and upload.

The lights look way cooler when you convert them into tail lights instead of brake or turns. This is what i would suggest.

I bought a 4 pin trailer-side wiring harness from Wal-Mart ($4.22) and wired the left side rear fog light to the left wire on the harness and the right rear fog light to the right wire on the harness using butt connectors. Then I wired both rear fog lights to the common ground. The fourth wire is not used. Then I just plugged the harness into the trailer wiring under the rear bumper just left of the exhaust tips. The rear fog lights now work as extra brake lights and extra turn signals. I had the wire laying around so it was an extremely cheap upgrade!
Jayeepee (or anyone who has done this mod) - I tried wiring up the bumper lights tonight using the above info as guidance. No worky for me :(
The bumper light has two wires coming out of it... which one did you use for the trailer hitch wire? And how (and where) did you ground the bulbs? I want to have the bumper lights work with the brake/turn signal.

Thanks in advance

I figured it out... thanks for all the replies :rolleyes:

can someone PLEASE go into detail on how you did this??? MrHemi, can you spread some light on this matter for us?

My pleasure... I went to a local auto parts store and bought a 4-pin trailer wire harness for about four bucks (it had both the male and female ends attached). I cut off the male end, and ended up with four loose wires. If you want to activate the brake/turn signal on the bumper lights, you will need to use the green, yellow, and white wire of the harness. If you want to rig up the bumper lights to just have them on as running (parking) lights, you will use just the brown and white wire of the harness.

I went with the brake/turn signal option, as I felt it looked better for one, but also was a safer option (the stock turn signal within the brake light is hard to see during the day).

I plugged in the 4-pin harness to the Jeep's harness (it's tucked up into the rear bumper near the exhaust tips). I ran the green wire to the right bumper light (had to extend it with some extra 16 gauge wire to reach). There are two wires coming out of the stock bumper lights - black, and green with an orange stripe. You will have to remove the black plastic wire loom piece to get enough room to cut both wires from the bulb. Cut as far away from the bulb end as you can, so you'll have enough room to splice your wires.
Connect the green wire to the bulb's green with orange stripe wire. Connect the yellow harness wire to the left bumper light's green with orange stripe wire. You will probably have to extend that wire to reach as well.
Connect the white harness wire to both black bulb wires (definitely need to extend the wire for this). The brown wire is not used - tape off and secure somewhere. Use zip ties to secure all wires - I tried to tie everything to existing wires for a cleaner look. Also make sure all connections are tight (either use butt connectors or wire caps) and plenty of electrical tape.

If you want to use the running light option, do the ground (white) wire the same, but instead of the yellow and green wires, just use the brown wire to connect to both green with orange stripe wires of the bulbs.

A trick I discovered half way through is to disconnect the wiring harness of the bulb... beats reaching up there doing all the work!

I also discovered (after scratching my head for two hours after seeing only the right brake/turn working) that I did not have a fuse (micro relay) installed for the LEFT T-TOW STOP/TURN. Why it wasn't there, I have no idea - cost $18 to get one (dealer only part).

Hope this helps guys...

MrHemi

I, for one, really appreciate the step by step. I'm going for the brake/turn option as well.
Thanks! Ken

Hemi, thanks so much for your post!

So do we need that relay fuse inorder for this whole thing to work?

I'm not sure about every other SRT8... all I know is that my beast was missing relay #5. Look in your fuse box panel (under the hood)... on the back of the lid is the diagram of what fuses go where. The mico relays are a black rectangular box-looking thing.

got it!

took me a while to do it and to make it nice and neat!
I used black splicing tube from radio shack to tuck all the wires inside of to keep the set up looking factory. I used a lot of Zip ties. I recommend for everyone to get all of the wire crimps,30ft of 16G wire and trailer connector from wal-mart. Any other detail things can be bought at radio shack.

i must say, the lights look great! I was really scared at first to cut all the wires and after i cut them, i kinda wished i didn't. I really didn't know if it would work at all. BUT IT DID and it worked great. I was not missing any fueses like mrhemi was, which i think you should get refunded from your dealer for that fuse you had to buy.

This is a must have feature for anyone! Questions are welcome.

Thanks again to MRHemi for his detailed info he so kindly gave us.

You're welcome... glad I could help out. Here's a pic of the finished product:

Instead of cutting the factory wiring harness you can use the harness to make this mod easier, as both lights are already wired together. Just use crimp-tap connectors on the driver's side fog light and run them to your preferred trailer connection which is only a few inches away.

Also you can pick whether you want them to be both direction signals and brake lights, or just brake lights. You can even make them running lamps but they're fairly bright and would likely be annoying to people driving behind you. If you really wanted them to be running lamps I would advise using a resistor (or just buy some 24 volt bulbs) to make them a bit dimmer, to match the intensity of the primary running lights. My choice is actually to make them auxiliary reverse lights.

This might help...


http://wkjeeps.com/trailer/trailer_pinout_wk_01.jpg
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My pleasure... I went to a local auto parts store and bought a 4-pin trailer wire harness for about four bucks (it had both the male and female ends attached). I cut off the male end, and ended up with four loose wires. If you want to activate the brake/turn signal on the bumper lights, you will need to use the green, yellow, and white wire of the harness. If you want to rig up the bumper lights to just have them on as running (parking) lights, you will use just the brown and white wire of the harness.

I went with the brake/turn signal option, as I felt it looked better for one, but also was a safer option (the stock turn signal within the brake light is hard to see during the day).

I plugged in the 4-pin harness to the Jeep's harness (it's tucked up into the rear bumper near the exhaust tips). I ran the green wire to the right bumper light (had to extend it with some extra 16 gauge wire to reach). There are two wires coming out of the stock bumper lights - black, and green with an orange stripe. You will have to remove the black plastic wire loom piece to get enough room to cut both wires from the bulb. Cut as far away from the bulb end as you can, so you'll have enough room to splice your wires.
Connect the green wire to the bulb's green with orange stripe wire. Connect the yellow harness wire to the left bumper light's green with orange stripe wire. You will probably have to extend that wire to reach as well.
Connect the white harness wire to both black bulb wires (definitely need to extend the wire for this). The brown wire is not used - tape off and secure somewhere. Use zip ties to secure all wires - I tried to tie everything to existing wires for a cleaner look. Also make sure all connections are tight (either use butt connectors or wire caps) and plenty of electrical tape.

If you want to use the running light option, do the ground (white) wire the same, but instead of the yellow and green wires, just use the brown wire to connect to both green with orange stripe wires of the bulbs.

A trick I discovered half way through is to disconnect the wiring harness of the bulb... beats reaching up there doing all the work!

I also discovered (after scratching my head for two hours after seeing only the right brake/turn working) that I did not have a fuse (micro relay) installed for the LEFT T-TOW STOP/TURN. Why it wasn't there, I have no idea - cost $18 to get one (dealer only part).

Hope this helps guys...

MrHemi

Ok so I did this today and got it working. It took me a bit to figure it out. At first the fog lights would blink at the same time. I didnt like that. Finally I thought I shouldn't have reconnected them to their original wire and just connected it to the harness. Ok now it works. My harness had the brown at the white wire and the white wire as the brown.... I think..:confused: The end that plugged in tot he harness has, yellow, green and brown.... the other end had white too. So I had no choice.

Here is the ? I need help with....
I want them to work at night also while the lights are on. They only work during the day time. How can I get them to work at night? Somebody please explain that to me. Thanks!

That is really weird, mine works great durring the day and at night.

So you're saying that your extra rear lights don't work when your headlights are on?

yeah exactly. I know the rear ones are really bright so it might bother other drivers... but I don't care. I want them on. I got tired of being under the hot car so I gave up on that part......

I just thought of something... for the orange/green wire, I cut those and left the one end disconnected. for the black wires they are still connected with a splice connector. could that be the problem? I will try cutting it tomorrow and see what that does for me. but somebody should let me know if that is what they did.

SilverSRT8,

That is the problem... those green wires with orange stripe need to be connected as well..

"Connect the green wire on the harness to the bulb's green with orange stripe wire on the Right side light. Connect the yellow harness wire to the Left bumper light's green with orange stripe wire. You will probably have to extend that wire to reach as well." Then the two black wires that come from the two lights must meet up and both must be connected to the white wire on the harness. everything except the brown wire should be connected, the brown wire on the harness can be cut off, does not matter... this should do the trick. Let me know if you have any other problems...

I just put one of those splice in connectors in there. and if I leave them connected then both lights will flash at the same time. when I cut them so that way it was only connected to the harness, then they work on their own. I am going to go mess with it some more.

just follow our instructions and your lights will function correctly

I did! This stuff is usually really easy for me! I will figure it out someday. I am going to look for a diff harness that matches everybody elses colors!

Everyone's comments have been excellent. This is precisely why these forums are invaluable. However, I want to take this to the next step.

Does anyone have a schematic that would explain where the wiring on these two rear bulbs goes? Clearly, we have established that the bulbs are wired together. I'd like to wired these so that they operate like these lamps were designed to, in conjunction with the front fog lights. I am confident that if something in the power distribution module was jumped, or something plugged in, we would get exactly that, rear and front fogs lit at the same time.

So what does are incredible knowledge base know about this? Any information would be excellent.

trust me, they are way too bright to have on all the time as running lights. You don't want that. Also the tail running lights are dimmed down a lot which is why they can stay on for a long time without overheating.

The stop/blinker hook up is the only way to go.

The wires from each light are linked together and then they are connected to the other side of the wire harnness.. So the lights will be activated when a trailer harness is connected. being that the trailer harness is normally hooked up to the extra sets of lights on that trailer, thats what activates the extra bumber fogs on our cars so they work together.

This is why we have to cut those wires and rig it the way we do to get them to work. We are tricking them out to think a trailer is conncected when in fact, it's not.
Hope that makes some sense and helps.
those extra fogs in the back are made just for brake/blinker lights. Not running lights. It looks very bad. I tested this out. too bright, does not match the top ones, looks like you are always breaking.

Does anyone have a schematic that would explain where the wiring on these two rear bulbs goes? Clearly, we have established that the bulbs are wired together. I'd like to wired these so that they operate like these lamps were designed to, in conjunction with the front fog lights. I am confident that if something in the power distribution module was jumped, or something plugged in, we would get exactly that, rear and front fogs lit at the same time.

I tried to find where the wire might appear using a wire tracer but couldn't find it at any of the three fuse boxes. :confused:
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I tried to find where the wire might appear using a wire tracer but couldn't find it at any of the three fuse boxes. :confused:
This morning I tried moving one of the micro relays to the empty spot (Spot number 4, I believe) in the PDC, but the rear fogs did not go on with the front fog lights.

I will see if I can find out from someone with a Star Scan if the rear fogs are something that can be dealer-switched on. If that is the case, doing that, and installing that micro relay may do the trick.

I just wired mine up as reverse lights, but instead of using a 4-pin harness I just used the blank plug that is attached to the 10-pin connector by inserting 18 gauge wires through the rubber shield directly into the connector. I had to use the 10-pin connector anyway because the 4-pin doesn't have a reverse lamp circuit.

I hate to make splices or even worse cut any of the factory wiring, but of course I still had to splice into the harness to "inject" the rear fog light circuit.

The bulbs in the rear fog lights are normal 21 watt single filament 1156 bulbs, but for more brightness I just ordered some 50 watt bulbs to match the ones I'm already using in the main reverse lights. That means I'll have 200 watts of reverse light power!!! muhahahhaha!!

http://6pod.com/idealrides/SRT8/3365.jpg

http://6pod.com/idealrides/SRT8/3371.jpg



http://6pod.com/idealrides/SRT8/3369.jpg

http://6pod.com/idealrides/SRT8/3367.jpg
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Interesting,
You guys wanting to get your high intensity rear fog lights working.... wheras in UK, we wish they didn`t exist !
Even after a little mist, we have so many inatentive drivers leave them on ,dazzling the poor driver behind, and causing more accidents than they avoid !!
They are wired so that they only work in conjunction with "Dip" headlight beam , and its an offence to use them unless it`s foggy !

I am surprised you guys get away with cutting into the wiring system, and adding lamps... donesen`t the multiplex system throw up fault codes ??

Rob, I know what you mean, they are the same intensity as a normal brake light so when people leave them on all the time it is very annoying. All Mercedes including US models have a rear fog light installed and sometimes I see people using them for no good reason and it's unbearable to drive behind. Thats why these should only be connected as brake lights, direction signals, or reverse lights as they will not be on constantly.

So the moral of the story is DO NOT CONNECT THESE LIGHTS TO THE RUNNING LAMP CIRCUIT!!!
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Thats the same thing I was saying!!

Try this its a tad easier and alot quicker to do. I did mine in about 30 minutes. 4 pin trailer harness required. Connect them to the 4 pin trailer harness its easier then the 7 pin.

http://www.***********/forums/showthread.php?t=2909

This morning I tried moving one of the micro relays to the empty spot (Spot number 4, I believe) in the PDC, but the rear fogs did not go on with the front fog lights.

I will see if I can find out from someone with a Star Scan if the rear fogs are something that can be dealer-switched on. If that is the case, doing that, and installing that micro relay may do the trick.
After some additional research, it appears that the rear fogs cannot be easily made functioning in conjunction with the front fogs. Apparently, the North American vehicles do not have the correct steering column and associated wiring. Clearly, trying to convert it over would be expensive ind truly not worth it.

It can be done.... When I get some free time over the next few weeks, I will wire it up. What you need to do is run two wires from the front all the way to the back. One wire will need to be connected to the front fog light's positive wire, and the other wire should be connected to the battery's positive terminal (be sure to use a fuse). These two wires used with a standard relay, which is then wired to the fog lights, will make the rear fogs work at the same time as the front fogs. See attached wiring diagram.

It can be done.... When I get some free time over the next few weeks, I will wire it up. What you need to do is run two wires from the front all the way to the back. One wire will need to be connected to the front fog light's positive wire, and the other wire should be connected to the battery's positive terminal (be sure to use a fuse). These two wires used with a standard relay, which is then wired to the fog lights, will make the rear fogs work at the same time as the front fogs. See attached wiring diagram.
Nick:

Over this last weekend, I was thinking about doing just this! The challenge will be finding an easy way to get the switched power to the rear of the vehicle. If you find a good way, let us know. Also, let us know what type of relay you use. I believe that the relay and the fuse are key to making this a safe mod.

Yeah, def. needs to be safe. I was thinking that the 7 pin trailer plug could also be used for power(+), this way only one wire needs to be run from front to back. I think I will attempt it this weekend as well.... I will let you know how I decide to run the wire. The relay should be easy to find, go into your local autoparts store and ask them for a 5pin relay(standard), they should know what you are talking about.

Stupid question....I just got mine last week....but how are these lights suppose to work from the factory???

Not a stupid question.... good luck with your new truck ....I just got mine on saturday... but the rear foglights don't actually work at all, they are just used as reflectors. From what I have read is that the bumper is a euro bumper and they are only wired/setup to work(a different steering column and relays) in the WK export model. Ours do have bulbs inside though, so thats what we are talking about.... making them actually work.

WOW!

that's crazy....But I do like the look of them. Before I read your response I just tried them....nothing....then looked in the manual.....

Now I'm back online...Thank you for the explanation! It would have been driving me crazy.

I think I'll make them work with my backup lights.

thanks again
Dave

Yeah, def. needs to be safe. I was thinking that the 7 pin trailer plug could also be used for power(+), this way only one wire needs to be run from front to back. I think I will attempt it this weekend as well.... I will let you know how I decide to run the wire. The relay should be easy to find, go into your local autoparts store and ask them for a 5pin relay(standard), they should know what you are talking about.
Did you ever get this set up? If you did, knowing how you ran the power to the rear of the vehicle would be great information to know.

Once that power is run, it should be pretty easy to get everthing else working.

The 4 wire trailer connector can be used for power thats what I used, no wire splicing just plug it in.

Ok, so if the bulbs are too bright to be run as running lights, why not replace the bulb with a dimmer one? Perhaps one of the double filament models that normaly sit in the tailights?

Does anyone have the bulb number for the stock rear fog light?

The bulbs are a single filament 1156 style.
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Thanks again to Mr. Hemi for the great write up near the beginning of this thread, and for his answers to my questions. . . after one failed attempt last weekend and a realization that the harness I initially purchased wasn't quite right, I wired and zip-tied the lights this afternoon in about 20 minutes, it's always easier after someone else has figured out how before you! Thanks as always for the great info gentlemen (and ladies) And the rear fogs as turns/brakes are a great addition :)

You're very welcome Sir!!

I did this today. took all of 20 minutes. Thanks for all the great information, you all made it a snap.

-Jerry

Help!!

I wired up my rear fog lights to work with the brake and turn signals. Checked all of my connections twice. It doesn't work.

Here is what I found so far. Mine was built on 2/1/07. My SRT8 was shipped without microrelays in the 5th and 6th spot, if you count from left to right, in the mail fuse box under the hood. That would be the left turn and right turn power for the trailer. My SRT8 had the first 3 relays, then 3 empty relay holes, then a relay on the 7th hole. I used a test light on the 4 pin trailer harness, and it gets power for the parking light when the parking lights are on. Nothing else. Checked on a friend's SRT8, built in 11/06, and his was shipped with the first 3 relays, 4th one missing, 5th and 6th ones in place, and missing the 7th one. He gave me his 2 relays for the L and R brake/turn for trailer. The relays all have the same part number. After putting those relays in my truck, the rear fogd still don't light up. Not with the brakes, not with turn signals. Tonight I am going to run a test light to those leads, and I'm pretty sure they're not getting power. What else is there to check? Are there any other fuses or relays for the trailer harness?

Thanks in advance.

Thank You Inferno SRT 8 !!!!

The Hopkins Towing Solutions plug #48115 and your diagram helped me wire the rear fogs up in 15 min.

Thanks again!!
:)
Rich

Help!!

I wired up my rear fog lights to work with the brake and turn signals. Checked all of my connections twice. It doesn't work.

Here is what I found so far. Mine was built on 2/1/07. My SRT8 was shipped without microrelays in the 5th and 6th spot, if you count from left to right, in the mail fuse box under the hood. That would be the left turn and right turn power for the trailer. My SRT8 had the first 3 relays, then 3 empty relay holes, then a relay on the 7th hole. I used a test light on the 4 pin trailer harness, and it gets power for the parking light when the parking lights are on. Nothing else. Checked on a friend's SRT8, built in 11/06, and his was shipped with the first 3 relays, 4th one missing, 5th and 6th ones in place, and missing the 7th one. He gave me his 2 relays for the L and R brake/turn for trailer. The relays all have the same part number. After putting those relays in my truck, the rear fogd still don't light up. Not with the brakes, not with turn signals. Tonight I am going to run a test light to those leads, and I'm pretty sure they're not getting power. What else is there to check? Are there any other fuses or relays for the trailer harness?

Thanks in advance.

I tried to hook mine up today and got nothing as well. Mine was build in 2-07 and I too have no relays. I borrowed the front fog and horn and got no juice on the plug either.

Hey guys.. I am new to the family. I was looking at these rear lamps and I was wondering why there were there? They have a wiring harnis and the bulbs are installed, but there doesn't seem to be anything in the manual that describes their purpose or functionality? Does anyone really know? I asked the dealer and they had no clue. Personally, I like the break light option with no signals or running lights. Basically, "I am stopping quick, don't hit me" type of function. Does anyone know that this circuit is tied to in the harnes? I know a few of you have made them work, but where does the circuit go and what is their intended usage? I kinda like the series post, but are there "legal" rules with rear illumination?

Any thoughts would be great.

Hey guys.. I am new to the family. I was looking at these rear lamps and I was wondering why there were there? They have a wiring harnis and the bulbs are installed, but there doesn't seem to be anything in the manual that describes their purpose or functionality? Does anyone really know? I asked the dealer and they had no clue. Personally, I like the break light option with no signals or running lights. Basically, "I am stopping quick, don't hit me" type of function. Does anyone know that this circuit is tied to in the harnes? I know a few of you have made them work, but where does the circuit go and what is their intended usage? I kinda like the series post, but are there "legal" rules with rear illumination?

Any thoughts would be great.

Just read back one page in this thread. They are wired for the Euro trucks where they are used as fog lights. Here we get nothing but bulbs and wires that are not active.

Help!!

I wired up my rear fog lights to work with the brake and turn signals. Checked all of my connections twice. It doesn't work.

Here is what I found so far. Mine was built on 2/1/07. My SRT8 was shipped without microrelays in the 5th and 6th spot, if you count from left to right, in the mail fuse box under the hood. That would be the left turn and right turn power for the trailer. My SRT8 had the first 3 relays, then 3 empty relay holes, then a relay on the 7th hole. I used a test light on the 4 pin trailer harness, and it gets power for the parking light when the parking lights are on. Nothing else. Checked on a friend's SRT8, built in 11/06, and his was shipped with the first 3 relays, 4th one missing, 5th and 6th ones in place, and missing the 7th one. He gave me his 2 relays for the L and R brake/turn for trailer. The relays all have the same part number. After putting those relays in my truck, the rear fogd still don't light up. Not with the brakes, not with turn signals. Tonight I am going to run a test light to those leads, and I'm pretty sure they're not getting power. What else is there to check? Are there any other fuses or relays for the trailer harness?

Thanks in advance.

I seem to recall that some in the past have required a Starscan hook-up to activate the wiring already installed on the Jeep. A trip to dealership may take care of it. I even ran a second trailer harness to the back of my "06" so that I can tow while keeping the European lights active. The instructions (Jeep aftermarket wiring harness) for this extra wiring that I installed also talked about Starscan activation, but I never needed to do it since it worked without it.

Folks with 2007's:
I also wired everything up and nothing (build date in Feb 2007). Found out from a friend who works at Dodge/Jeep dealer that it was shipped w/o the relays AND the PCM is not enabled to tell the relays to turn on. So I had to buy the relays (about 12 bucks each) and had him enable the trailer/towing via STARSCAN. immediately, when he hit enable, they came on.Very easy to do on the STARSCAN

still researching 'other' things disabled (like tilt down mirrors when you put in reverse on 06's) and making up a list to enable next time I see him

Dave
2007 JGCSRT8

I have to say I love the reverse tilt feature... might have saved my rims from curb rash if the darn dealer had known how to enable the feature. The instructions found in this forum and the blue site were different from where it was located on mine using the starscan dealie. It was found under MISC OPTIONS. :cool:

I have to say I love the reverse tilt feature... might have saved my rims from curb rash if the darn dealer had known how to enable the feature. The instructions found in this forum and the blue site were different from where it was located on mine using the starscan dealie. It was found under MISC OPTIONS. :cool:

What model year do you have and build date? No one with a 2007 has reported they were able to enable the tilt mirrors that I have heard.

Sorry,
Mine is a 2006... and I literally had to take the starscan from the tech to find it in the menu's. I did this after they informed me they had changed the passenger mirror and that I would have to wait for them to get a driver side in stock.... Plus they couldn't find it following the instructions I had them staple to the work order.... grrrr..... :rolleyes:

so can i just put the missing fuses in to have the rear fogs as running light?

What model year do you have and build date? No one with a 2007 has reported they were able to enable the tilt mirrors that I have heard.

i have an 07 and i work for chrysler. i enabled mine last weekend. :)

Folks with 2007's:
I also wired everything up and nothing (build date in Feb 2007). Found out from a friend who works at Dodge/Jeep dealer that it was shipped w/o the relays AND the PCM is not enabled to tell the relays to turn on. So I had to buy the relays (about 12 bucks each) and had him enable the trailer/towing via STARSCAN. immediately, when he hit enable, they came on.Very easy to do on the STARSCAN

still researching 'other' things disabled (like tilt down mirrors when you put in reverse on 06's) and making up a list to enable next time I see him

Dave
2007 JGCSRT8

where do you put the relay's?

I am trying this and I got drivers side to work, but not the passenger's side. I have both right and left relays, but I am missing a relay that says RR Fog. Not sure if that's the reason -- but if one works, I figure both should, assuming I have wired it correctly. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance...

I do have the t-tow left turn stop relay but i dont have the number 4 position which is rear fogs relay...can i not wire the rear fogs????

I finally got around to doing my rear fogs. I wanted them to work as stop, turn, and tail; which I don't think has been done before.

I went to our local auto store and found a GM tail light socket. There were 3 tabs instead of two, but the diameter was about right. I tried them out and found out that they fit perfectly and if I inserted them with the right orientation, they would actually turn and lock in just like the factory sockets.

I wired them up to the hitch wiring, inserted 1157 bulbs, and everything works.

I just have a couple of concerns: 1) Will the sockets stay locked? and 2)
Are the rear tails too bright?

Here are some pictures of the wiring:

Outstanding!
Can I get the part # for the light socked?

I just checked in darkness and it seems like the tail lights are to bright. Like jordo9998 (post 23) says, it looks like you are braking. I wonder if there is a dual filament bulb where the tail light is not as bright. Or could I get a resister to tone it down. I really like the look (with the tails).

We don't have Pep Boys or Autozone here locally. So I think we have some different brands. The part brand was a "Conduct Tite" and the part number was 85830. They say on the box they have a web site, so I checked it and it leads to a Dorman site. I was able to find the part:

GM Socket (https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/vm91corp30r/cat_search1.w?sid=0x00539ee5&clt=hwrap1&vsrch_str=85830&vsrch_brand=ALL&vsrch_cat=ALL&vsrch_range=ALL&vTime=81405)

Thanks for the info.
Is it possible that you connected the brake to the running light?

I don't think so because I used the yellow and green out of the harness for the turns/brakes. The lights go on and off with the lights. The brake lights seem pretty bright as well.

I wonder if I could hook up the tail light bulbs in series rather than parallel. Could any of the electrical guys on the forum weigh in on this?
?

If you hook up the brown wire with the yellow and green the running light part works, I did the brake and turn signal, I read the running is to bright, I put the connects into the plug then I put hot glue around the socket to keep it tight.

Later

Oops, I think PropDr is right, I mixed the wiring. I just went out and inspected brightness on both functions and the lights are much brighter than the brake/turns.

I just assumed (my bad) the brown wire on the GM socket corresponded to the lights like trailer wiring. I will fix this tomorrow and report back. Thanks for the feedback!

I finally got this setup working - tails, turns and brakes. Just in case anyone else tries to do this with the 85830 sockets linked in post #64:
1) the brown wire is the tails (I inadvertently hooked the right side tail wiring to the yellow).
2) the side of the socket with the fine vertical ridge gets the bulb side with the peg in the middle (I put the left bulb in off by 180 degrees).

Once I corrected these two errors, every thing worked good. I also broke the inner socket away from the outer socket on one side and had to super glue it.

The sockets seem to be holding in place. If I have a problem with them coming loose, I'll just add a little clear caulk to hold them.

What about us people with 2008 SRT's?

Do you have the lights with factory one filament bulbs (that are dead)? Also, you need a trailer wiring harness (2006's had them). If not, you will have to tap off somewhere to get brakes, turns, and lights. Some of the guys that have 2008's must have done this to get trailer wiring; I would do a search.

What about us people with 2008 SRT's?

Wire them up as stop or running lights, or come up with something creative! Good luck!

hi all....whats the status on these???

What about us people with 2008 SRT's?

http://www.putfile.com/album/161636

Got mine working today, took all of 30 minutes.